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Thread: Maytag Gemini gas range lower oven not lighting, now a few weeks later top oven not lighting

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
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    Ottawa ON Canada
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    Default Maytag Gemini gas range lower oven not lighting, now a few weeks later top oven not lighting

    Model Number: MGR6772BDS
    Brand: Maytag
    Age: 6-10 years

    Just after 3 years, upper oven would not light - it was intermittent. Had a couple of service calls for this - initially found nothing - then they ordered a valve. In the interim waiting for the valve, looks to us like the obvious [very young] apprentice crossed some wires during that last call because a few days later using lower oven, I heard shorting/pops. Yet, another call, and they replaced the board free [5701M576-60] and charged us for the upper oven valve [74007408].

    Now 5 years later, range is just about 8 years old [spring 2004]. About a month ago, the lower oven stopped lighting. We've been using the top, and now the top oven is not lighting. Both sound like they're firing up/clicking, but no flames, no heat, temp stays showing 100F. I can see the ignitor glowing in the lower oven, but not in the top oven. Without powering off/on, the fault code thingy comes up as F 0-0 [no problem?].

    - Could I be missing the upper glow? It's hard to see in the holes, I even tried with a mirror and holding the light switch off. Is it conceivable to miss it or would the orange be visible enough even if I can't look straight into the holes ?
    - Will resetting the breaker and/or unplugging and trying again likely to give any other code(s)?
    - From what I've read here from your advice to past posters, I suspect both ignitors need replacing? Is there a typical life span for these things or is it really just a strange coincidence that they both died within weeks of each other? Or from your experience, is it likely we are looking at a potentially more $eriou$ i$$ue?
    - What's have you seen as the typical lifespan of a 2004 Maytag gas range? Fix or attempt repair at this stage?

    One more Q, the manual mentions checking the oven gas shut off valve located under the rearmost burner knob. (see if it's turned to 9 or 12 o'clock) I CAN'T SEE ANYTHING THERE! What I see beneath that knob looks like the other 3. The leak guard for this knob indeed has an "appendage" (unlike the others), covering a hole in the stovetop there where I believe they say the valve should be, but I don't see anything there. I don't quite know what this valve looks like that is supposed to be there. Do you have a pic? Is it tricky to get at this valve in under the hole, or should it be easily accessible/visible? Or is the manual wrong for this specific model range and there is no shut off there after all [I hate how the guides are sometimes generic for many models!]?

    [crossing fingers it's a cheap fix]

  2. #2
    Join Date
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    You probably have two worn out igniters. That style igniter can fail two ways, it can break or what's more common is they get weak over time and don't draw enough amps to open the valve. Yours have lasted longer than normal. You're going to need a VOM that can read VAC and continuity and an amp probe. On the igniter that's working, clamp the amp probe around one of the wires going to the igniter. You're looking for 3.2 to 3.6 amps. On the igniter that is not working, either check it for continuity or check for 110 VAC when it's turned on. Here is the igniter for your range:
    Oven Igniter 74007399 Order now for same day shipping. 365 day return policy. RepairClinic.com
    Click image for larger version. 

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    OWNER RICK'S APPLIANCE REPAIR
    APPLIANCE TECHNICIAN FOR 29 YEARS
    REFRIGERATION SPECIALIST
    ONLINE SERV TECH: ApplianceBlog.com
    CERTIFIED TYPE 1; TYPE 2.....REFRIGERATION SERVICE E.S.

  3. #3
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    Apr 2012
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    Ottawa ON Canada
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    Thank you! Is it the same ignitor for both the top and bottom ovens?

  4. #4
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    Same igniter for both.
    OWNER RICK'S APPLIANCE REPAIR
    APPLIANCE TECHNICIAN FOR 29 YEARS
    REFRIGERATION SPECIALIST
    ONLINE SERV TECH: ApplianceBlog.com
    CERTIFIED TYPE 1; TYPE 2.....REFRIGERATION SERVICE E.S.

  5. #5
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    Hi.
    I've got an update ... finally found time to repair it. We found there are actually 2 ignitors in the top oven [one for lower element, one for broiler???] - we only bought 2, so we did not replace the lower oven ignitor. Lo and behold, both ovens (including broiler) are working now. The lower is perhaps a bit slower to start going (shows 100 a bit longer than we remember). Does that indicate it'll soon need replacing too? I also have a question about the gas supply line - it looks like the ones they call "flexible" - yellow. It has a bend in it half way, but it's way too high up, doesn't fit in the recess, and as a result the stove does not back all the way up to the wall like the manual says it can. We didn't try very hard - just pushed it with a few fingers enough to feel resistance - should we be able to unbend/rebend this to our liking without fear of cracking it? Or is there some kind of non-flexible insert in there on purpose or difference of opinion re: the term "flexible" ?

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by JJD View Post
    Does that indicate it'll soon need replacing too?
    When the igniters start to wear out they take longer to generate the necessary amps to open the safety valve.


    Quote Originally Posted by JJD View Post
    should we be able to unbend/rebend this to our liking without fear of cracking it?
    Yes, they're made out of stainless steel.
    OWNER RICK'S APPLIANCE REPAIR
    APPLIANCE TECHNICIAN FOR 29 YEARS
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    ONLINE SERV TECH: ApplianceBlog.com
    CERTIFIED TYPE 1; TYPE 2.....REFRIGERATION SERVICE E.S.

  7. #7
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    Jul 2013
    Location
    New Jersey
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    Smile Mgr6772bds

    Hi I also own a Maytag Gemini MGR6772BDS i purchased 10/2/03 and my lower oven stays at 100 degrees, I have no problems with ordering the ignitor and replacing although as much as I search I cannot find an instruction guide to properly change it out, is there any guide on how a novice can do so?

    Also is my ignitor the same model as depicted in this thread? Do I need 1 or 2 for the lower oven?

    Than you for your time!

  8. #8
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    Blankstare, first check to see if the oven igniter is turning on. To access the igniter, open the oven door to the broil stop position, about 4". Grasp each side of the door and pull straight up and off. Set the door off to the side out of the way. Remove tho two screws in the front of the oven floor and remove the oven floor. Remove the two wing nuts holding the heat shield to the manifold and remove the heat shield. From there you can see the bake igniter attached to the side of the manifold. Turn the oven on bake and see if the igniter glows red. If you have an amprobe, check the amps from the oven igniter (3.2 to 3.6).

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Oven Igniter 7432P143-60 Order now for same day shipping. 365 day return policy. RepairClinic.com
    Click image for larger version. 

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    OWNER RICK'S APPLIANCE REPAIR
    APPLIANCE TECHNICIAN FOR 29 YEARS
    REFRIGERATION SPECIALIST
    ONLINE SERV TECH: ApplianceBlog.com
    CERTIFIED TYPE 1; TYPE 2.....REFRIGERATION SERVICE E.S.

  9. #9
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    Default

    Thank you i will test it, are you sure its not this part as depicted in this thread?

    Oven Igniter 74007399 Order now for same day shipping. 365 day return policy. RepairClinic.com

  10. #10
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    Ok on your model they make two oven igniters depending upon the serial number of your range. So read your serial number tag.

    If your serial number starts with 10 or lower you need this one: Oven Igniter 74007399 Order now for same day shipping. 365 day return policy. RepairClinic.com

    If your serial number starts with 11 or higher you need this one: Oven Igniter 7432P143-60 Order now for same day shipping. 365 day return policy. RepairClinic.com

    Jake
    Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
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