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Thread: No Heat - again!? Kenmore 80 Series electric dryer

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    Default No Heat - again!? Kenmore 80 Series electric dryer

    Model Number: 110.60832990
    Brand: Sears Kenmore
    Age: 6-10 years

    Hi Jake/all,

    This has been asked MANY times, but I thought I'd better ask some specifics for my model just to be sure. My aging Kenmore electric dryer model # 110.60832990 stopped blowing any hot air yesterday. Everything else works - dryer turns on, lights work, drum spins, etc., but no hot air. I replaced the heating element once before in this unit a number of years ago - 4 maybe 5. Seems it should last longer than that. Question specific to my model is the correct part numbers (eg., is the correct heating element mfg # 279838?). This could also be the thermal cut out fuse (at top of heating element cover), correct? Is the generic Kenmore picture of the back cover removed with 7 parts pointed to correct for my model?

    Thanks once again and of course it will take days to get parts, etc. No dryer, no happy wife...

    David

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
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    McMullen Valley, Arizona
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    Default

    Hi David,

    You'll need to ohm test your thermal cut-off and heating element for continuity.

    Unplug your dryer first.

    Thermal cut-off testing is the same as thermal fuse testing.




    Here's the thermal cut-off for your model, it includes your hi-limit thermostat as well, that MUST be changed too:
    Manufacturer part#279816 is RepairClinic item#2651


    Here is a photo of the back of your dryer without the back access panel on, the thermal cut-off is #1 here:










    Here's the heating element for your model, in case you need to order it:
    Manufacturer part number 279838 is RepairClinic item number 2438


    Here's a help video to access/change it:



    Let us know what you find.

    Jake
    Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
    Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
    Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
    Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
    Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

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  3. #3
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    Default

    Using my last thread to post a new problem. Same Kenmore dryer, and my wife IM'd me yesterday at work saying same thing that happened in April is happening again - everything turns on but no heat. In April it was the thermal cut-off switch that went bad and so I replaced it with a new one and also the high-limit thermostat that came with the kit. Everything has been working good until yesterday. I just took the back off and the lower red wire that comes from the wiring harness and plugs into one of the dual male electrical tabs on the ceramic block on the bottom of the heating coil unit burnt off!?!?! I checked continuity on the thermal cut-off and the high-limit thermostat and they passed. The heating coil pack reads about 6 ohms, so I believe that is OK. What should I do/check for next? Or should I just crimp a new female tab connector to the burnt lead and see what happens?

  4. #4
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    Ok, usually I see that happens when your vent to the outside is restricted.

    Have you checked the outflow of that dryer vent to the outside?

    Where does it vent out to? Side of your house, roof of your house?

    Jake
    Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
    Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
    Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
    Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
    Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

    Look-Up & Order Parts

  5. #5
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    Cleaned it back in April, but will check again. Jake, I found another post with pictures that looks virtually identical to the same dryer design (in this case a Whirlpool I think) an the same lead burnt as mine, etc. on appliancpartspros.com and the tech there said it is from a loose wire/terminal connection. What do you think - I know loose electrical contacts cause arching and high heat and will burn out wires (or fuse boxes as I recently witnessed) - could it apply here/ever see it yourself?? Thanks.

  6. #6
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    Yes, a loose connection would cause that as well, make sure the connection there is super tight.

    Jake
    Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
    Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
    Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
    Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
    Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

    Look-Up & Order Parts

  7. #7
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    OK, no exhaust blockage that I can discern. But this is an interior laundry room so the exhaust plumbing is 20+ feet.... I did run a shop vac in blower mode and it has great airflow to the outside exhaust port. I have a new spare heater coil unit so will try that with fixed wiring. Not fun to see anything burnt inside a dryer!

  8. #8
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    Ok, sounds good, that should take care of it.

    Jake
    Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
    Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
    Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
    Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
    Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

    Look-Up & Order Parts

  9. #9
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    Had to create a short 12ga. jumper to make up for the cut away fried wire. Couldn't find a female tab connector at any store this size! Had to slightly grind down the tab to fit the largest connector I had....hope that's ok. Anyway the wife has already run 4 dryer loads and all OK so far! Thanks again Jake.

    David

  10. #10
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    Yes David, good job, that should take care of it.

    Jake
    Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
    Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
    Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
    Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
    Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

    Look-Up & Order Parts

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