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Thread: Question about Evaporator Fan: What is the correct motor stator ohm reading...

  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Virginia
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    Default Question about Evaporator Fan: What is the correct motor stator ohm reading...

    Model Number: TBFM17VA
    Brand: GE
    Age: More than 10 years

    Hello:
    I would like to pick your brain about the evaporator fan motor used in this model GE 'fridge. The GE part number is WR60X118 and according to the wiring diagram (that I found tucked down under the front of part of the frame...Very handy) the stator ohms should be 62 nominally, I think. I get a reading of 5.5 ohms, which, to me, is way way off. BUT, it seemingly runs just fine.
    My real issue is I believe the evaporator fan is not pushing enough cold air down into the FF compartment and reaching the coolness level that it used to be able to achive. Could the low ohms reading of the stator be reducing the RPMs and the power of the motor enough to reduce to amount of cold air reaching the FF section?
    Your thoughts on this would be really welcome.
    Thanks.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    14,467

    Default

    Hi,

    BUT, it seemingly runs just fine
    My real issue is I believe the evaporator fan is not pushing enough cold air down into the FF compartment and reaching the coolness level that it used to be able to achive. Could the low ohms reading of the stator be reducing the RPMs and the power of the motor enough to reduce to amount of cold air reaching the FF section?
    RPM is approx 2800...is the fan motor running that fast, if yes the fan is likely not the trouble maker.
    LINK> fridge not cold, Fridges, refrigerators, not cold enough, frost free problems and how to test, noisy fan motors, clicking on and off compressors, door gaskets

    If it is running, slow....

    Name:  Evaporator-Fan-Motor-WR60X190-00720900.jpg
Views: 118
Size:  3.6 KB Evaporator fan motor assembly Manufacturer Number WR60X190

    jeff.
    http://www.applianceaid.com/
    Appliance Repair Aid

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Virginia
    Posts
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    Default

    Hi Jeff:
    Thanks for replying so quickly. As to whether the fan is running 2800 rpm, I couldn't tell without a tachometer to get a reading. It used to be that when you opened the freezer door, there was what seemed to me a very strong cold stream of air coming from the vent in the rear. Now, there is a breeze coming out and it is sufficient to cool the compartment to freezing but the air being pushed down into the FF compartment is not adequate. It seems weak to me. There are no issues with the evaporator freezing up or anything like that. The defrost timer checks out and the heating element is coming on when power is applied. I also have the damper is fully open. Doing that in the past would cause freezing of items if they were at the back of the top shelf near the damper. And the compressor coils are a clean as possible.
    I was considering removing the fan and applying some 3 in 1 oil to the bearings to see if that would improve the air flow. Would this be adviseable or maybe just invest in a replacement motor (as it is pretty old)?
    Last edited by JMC1953; May 28th, 2012 at 03:07 PM.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Ontario, Canada
    Posts
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    Default

    I was considering removing the fan and applying some 3 in 1 oil to the bearings to see if that would improve the air flow. Would this be adviseable or maybe just invest in a replacement motor (as it is pretty old)?
    A little as a test wouldn't hurt...also make sure the blade is not loose on the shaft, odd time the blade will wear and slip on the motor shaft. When/if all else looks good, then I'd try another motor.

    jeff.
    http://www.applianceaid.com/
    Appliance Repair Aid

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