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Thread: Kenmore 90 Series Electric Dryer - Runs but no Heat

  1. #1
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    Default Kenmore 90 Series Electric Dryer - Runs but no Heat

    Model Number: 110.62924100
    Brand: Sears Kenmore
    Age: 6-10 years

    Dryer is 6-10 years old or maybe more than 10 years old.

    My dryer turns on fine but has no heat. It used to take about 1 hour to dry my clothes, then it started to take longer, like 1 hour and 40 minutes. Now there is no heat at all. I opened the door and turned it on, there is no heat, should I feel heat within 10 seconds of it running?

    I went to the fuse panel and flipped both of the switches off then back on. I unplugged the dryer and checked the 3 wire receptacle outlet. I used a voltmeter and put the black lead into the L shaped hole and the red lead into the other two holes and both read 120V. I then put the black lead into one hole then the red lead into the other hole and it read 240V. Did I do this correctly? This means the outlet is working right?

    Next I took out the air vent hose and looked inside the hose and dryer and I didn't see any lint build up so I think air flow is fine. Is it?

    Then I took out the heating element and measured it for resistance. It is not getting a reading and the coils look to be in good shape.

    What is the next step? Replace the heating element? Can heating elements go bad even though all the coils are still all connected? Before when there was heat, it started to take longer to dry my clothes, could this be caused by a heating element about to go bad?
    Last edited by Jake; August 7th, 2012 at 05:02 PM. Reason: Corrected model number

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by alfun View Post
    I took out the heating element and measured it for resistance. It is not getting a reading
    It needs to be replaced.

    Quote Originally Posted by alfun View Post
    Can heating elements go bad even though all the coils are still all connected?
    Yes, but it's not very common. If you take your finger and tap the coils all the way around you'll probably find the break.

    Quote Originally Posted by alfun View Post
    Before when there was heat, it started to take longer to dry my clothes, could this be caused by a heating element about to go bad?
    No, the element is like a light bulb, it's either good or bad. Dryability issues can be caused by the control board or thermostats/thermistors but 90% of the time it's caused by poor air flow. Poor air flow across the element causes the heat to pile up inside the element housing and the dryer starts cycling on the safety thermostat instead of the cycling thermostat. Clean out the blower housing by removing the two screws by the lint filter and the four screws in the blower housing. Slide it over and clean out both sides. Replace the element and dry one or two loads of clothes with the vent hose off. See if there's a noticeable difference.

    Heating Element Assembly 3387747 Order now for same day shipping. 365 day return policy. RepairClinic.com
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  3. #3
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    OK, I found the break in the coil. Don't know if I missed it yesterday or the break just happened today by someone moving the heating element?

    When I took the front panel off to get to my heating element there was a lot of lint build-up near the floor. Could this cause dryability issues? When I take my lint filter off and look down the hole there is a lot of lint build-up also. Could this also cause dryability issues? How can I clean this area? I did not see any lint on or inside of my heating element housing though.

    Is the blower housing connected to the end of the heating element housing? How does the hot air get into the tumbler? Does the blower suck some hot air past the coils and into the tumbler and some air also goes to the air vent which leads to outside?

    Why do I dry one or two loads of clothes with the air vent hose off? Is this to test if my air vent hose leading to outside is clogged? Won't the room get all dusty if I do this?

    I don't see any screws by my lint filter. How do I get to my blower housing? Do I take the panel off on the back of my dryer? My dryer looks like this:
    Completed heating element repairs on a Sears Kenmore 90 Series clothes dryer - YouTube

    In this picture is the beige/white colored piece on the left the blower housing?


    What do you mean by "Slide it over and clean both sides"? Do I have to take out the blower hosing and clean the hole that leads to the air vent hose and also the other hole that leads to the heating element housing?

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by alfun View Post
    OK, I found the break in the coil. Don't know if I missed it yesterday or the break just happened today by someone moving the heating element?
    You missed it. They don't break that easy.


    Quote Originally Posted by alfun View Post
    How does the hot air get into the tumbler? Does the blower suck some hot air past the coils and into the tumbler and some air also goes to the air vent which leads to outside?
    In your picture, the blower and blower housing are on the left and the element and element housing are on the right. The blower sucks the air through the bottom of the element housing, across the element, into the drum from the holes on the left side (looking into the drum), into the drum and clothes, back out the holes on the right side (looking into the drum), through the lint filter, down the lint filter housing to the blower wheel where the blower wheel blows it out the vent.


    Quote Originally Posted by alfun View Post
    Why do I dry one or two loads of clothes with the air vent hose off? Is this to test if my air vent hose leading to outside is clogged? Won't the room get all dusty if I do this?
    Yes, by eliminating the vent hose and vent I don't need to take your word that the vent hose is cleaned ,the vent is cleaned, it's not collapsed or it's not too long. I just eliminate it from the equation. Once you get the machine all cleaned out it shouldn't blow much lint out for one or two loads. Just check it with one load.

    Quote Originally Posted by alfun View Post
    How can I clean this area? I don't see any screws by my lint filter. How do I get to my blower housing?What do you mean by "Slide it over and clean both sides"?
    There's two phillips screws right below where the lint filter goes into the lint filter housing. Once you remove those two screws, go behind the dryer and remove the four 5/16" screws holding the lint filter housing on top of the blower housing. Pull the lint filter housing up and off the blower housing. You can now slide it to the right over the thermostat and thermal fuse toward the vent. Clean out the lint filter housing where it mounts over the blower wheel. Clean out from around the blower wheel and between the blower wheel and the vent.
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  5. #5
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    The picture I posted earlier is not a picture of my electric dryer. I was just looking for a picture of a blower housing because I had no idea what one looks like. I don't think I have to remove the panels on the back of my dryer but am not sure, let me know if I have to or not. I did find better pictures here though which look a lot like my dryer: Do It Yourself Repair: Kenmore 90 Series Model 110 Clothes Dryer is squealing and making noise while running its cycle.

    I removed two 1/4" bolts to take this cover off. Is this just a cover for the blower housing?
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    Next I cleaned this piece and removed all the lint on the floor.
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    I think this is the blower wheel attached to the blower housing? Do I need to take the blower wheel out and clean inside the housing? Or just the cover, surrounding area, and floor?
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    I used my digital voltmeter and put it on 2000k setting and tried to measure the resistance of the two parts connected to the element housing but it showed 0 on my meter. If there is no continuity on my meter it will show 1. I switch it to 200k setting and touch the two leads but it will not zero out. I test the two parts with the 200k setting and it will fluctuate a lot but sometimes it held at .9 ohms. Are these two parts still good?

    Do you have a diagram or something of how the wires connect to the parts on the element housing? I drew a picture but am not sure if it is correct. Can anything bad happen if the wires are connected incorrectly and the dryer started?
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  6. #6
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    The parts are probably OK. Make sure the blower wheel is tight on the motor shaft. This is a wiring diagram for a similar model.
    Click image for larger version. 

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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by rickgburton View Post
    The parts are probably OK. Make sure the blower wheel is tight on the motor shaft. This is a wiring diagram for a similar model.
    I think there are two bolts that connect the blower wheel to the blower housing. Are these the correct names for these two parts? Do I just make sure the two bolts are tight to check that the blower wheel is tight on the motor shaft?
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    Do I need to clean anything else? I'm not sure which part is the blower housing when you said "Slide it over and clean out both sides".

    I am looking at the diagram you posted and my dryer doesn't have a RED/WHITE wire that was connected to the heating element. Can you tell me where the CENTRIFUGAL SWITCH and COM HEATER RELAY is usually located?

    My dryer looks a lot like this and you can see where the purple wires are located like from my drawing.
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  8. #8
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    This guy has his black wires connected like this. But I know for sure my black wires were connected to the bottom terminals for the Thermal Cut-Off and the High-Limit Thermostat. Does it matter how this black wire is connected?
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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by alfun View Post
    my dryer doesn't have a RED/WHITE wire that was connected to the heating element.
    Yes you do, I can see it in the picture you posted. If you can't read the wiring diagram, don't guess where the wires go.
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    Sorry, I see the red wire with white stripe now. I updated my drawing. Your electrical wiring diagram looks similar to an automotive electrical wiring diagram, I can read most of it.
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    It says there is a black wire connected to the Thermal Cut-Off on one end and High-Limit Thermostat on the other end, but it does not say which terminal it is connected to. Does it matter which terminal its connected to?

    When looking at this picture. There are 2 purple wires connected to a black part on the blower housing (I think its a blower housing), is the black part the COM HEATER RELAY?
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    Do I need to take out the blower wheel and clean inside the housing? Is this the housing you're talking about when you say "Slide it over and clean out both sides"?

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