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Thread: GE Profile Temperature reading is incorrect for refrigerator

  1. #1
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    Default GE Profile Temperature reading is incorrect for refrigerator

    Model Number: PDS22SCRALSS
    Brand: GE
    Age: 1-5 years

    Thank you in advance for any help! We have a GE Profile refrigerator with the bottom freezer. Recently, we noticed that the refrigerator was not cooling, and I found there was a defrost issue. So, due to improper diagnosis, we have changed the evaporator fan, defrost thermostat, and eventually the motherboard. Since the motherboard change, the freezer has worked fine, and there is no longer ice build-up on the coils. However, the refrigerator is still not cold. The temperature on the digital screen says 34 (and freezer says 0), but actual temperature in the fridge is 63. I changed the thermistor in the refrigerator thinking maybe it had gone bad with the motherboard, but the problem still exists. What would cause this? Thanks again.

  2. #2
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    Ok, so if you had a defrost problem I assume you removed the back panel inside the freezer and found the evaporator coil completely frosted up?

    On these models the evaporator thermistor controls the defrost heater, you said you replaced the defrost thermostat, but thats just a safety defrost thermostat.

    You will need to test the evaporator thermistor.

    Here's the thermistor for your model:
    Thermistor WR55X10025 Order now for same day shipping. 365 day return policy. RepairClinic.com

    Watch this video, Shawn explains how to test/replace the thermistor:






    Jake
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  3. #3
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    Hi Jake! Thank you for the response. Yes, I did remove the back cover in the freezer. I replaced the evaporator thermistor also, as in the video. When that did not work, I replaced the main board. Since then, I have no issues with frost buildup, just a warm fridge. The display says it is 43 in there today, but my thermometer in there reads 63. So, does the thermistor register that temperature reading on the digital display? I assumed so, which is the reason I replaced that thermistor too, but it made no difference. Since the display reads a low temperature, does the board think everything is okay and not allow the fridge to cool?

  4. #4
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    I believe on this model it will only show the set temperature.

    Your replaced all the parts that relate to this problem, so I'm stumped as well why its not cooling the refrigerator section. You'd need to get GE to come out at this point to see whats going on.

    Jake
    Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
    Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
    Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
    Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
    Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

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  5. #5
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    Thanks Jake! We have been another month without a refrigerator due to this issue, and I've been quite busy and unable to look at it until today. So, I looked at this from another angle tonight. The freezer has worked flawlessly and remains at -1 degrees. No issues. My refrigerator is still reading 34 degrees, even though the actual temperature inside by a separate thermometer is 63 degrees. So, as I leave the door to the refrigerator open, the damper eventually opens and cold air blows out, but only for a short time. Even with this refrigerator door open, the temperature READING (digital) does NOT change (remains at 34 degrees). I would think that if you leave the door open, I would see this temperature reading rise. Is there a sensor / thermodisc/ thermistor that controls what that temperature is reading on the display? I think that the computer believes that this temperature reading (34 degrees) is correct, and therefore is not opening the damper to cool the refrigerator section. Does this make sense, or am I thinking too much on this? Thanks again!

  6. #6
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    Ok, You have a bottom freezer, freezer on bottom model. The motherboard instructions say to "eliminate the termistor wire in Pin 2 of the J1 connector" and to "cut the green wire in capacitor board". These two instructions are specifically for bottom freezer models.

    Did you do that?

    Jake
    Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
    Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
    Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
    Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
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  7. #7
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    Hi Jake! I put in the motherboard, but I did NOT cut the green wire, as the instructions indicated that this should only be done on models with a certain set of letters in the serial number. This refrigerator serial number did not contain the mentioned letters. (I don't have the instructions in front of me or I would share). BUT.....I did wonder if maybe that could be a cause of this problem. Does the cutting of this wire somehow correlate to this issue I am having? If so, I'll cut it ASAP! Thanks!

  8. #8
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    What about this: "eliminate the termistor wire in Pin 2 of the J1 connector" does it say that as well?

    Jake
    Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
    Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
    Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
    Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
    Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

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  9. #9
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    Yes, it did say that in the instructions, and I did do that.

  10. #10
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    Yes, then cut the green wire.

    Jake
    Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
    Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
    Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
    Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
    Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

    Look-Up & Order Parts

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