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Thread: Frigidaire front loading washer doesn't spin

  1. #1
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    west des moines, ia
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    Post Frigidaire front loading washer doesn't spin

    Model Number: LTF6000ES1
    Brand: Frigidaire
    Age: 6-10 years

    I have a Frigidaire front loading washer (model LTF6000ES1) and it won't do the spin cycle. It does everything else fine. It agitates or tumbles the clothes both ways fine (so it appears the motor is working). What could be the problem? I read other postings which suggest to look at the coin trap, motor control board, drain pump motor. Does anyone have any other suggestions or ways to diagnose to determine what part I need to replace? How to open the washer to diagnose the problem (I never have washer problem before)?

    Thanks.
    Last edited by Jake; May 7th, 2013 at 07:40 PM. Reason: Corrected model number

  2. #2
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    Default

    Please recheck your model#, nothing pulls up for the one you listed.

    Click here: Appliance Parts at RepairClinic. 125 Brands. 365 Day Returns.

    Then you will see a link that says: Help me find my model number.

    Does your washer drain fully before the spin cycle? If so, then its possibly a bad door switch latch assembly or bad motor speed controller board.

    Once you post a good model# we can assist you.

    Jake
    Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
    Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
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    Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

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  3. #3
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    Post

    Sorry, I mistyped. the model # is LTF6000ES1. The error code is E41. However, when I close the door, it said "door lock" and the engine running. When I use "spin only" cycle, the motor running but the drum does not move. The motor runs a while then the drum starts to move a little bit then stops. The engine then stops and the light goes off.....the cycle ends.

    I don't know anything about washer, Just wonder if it could be the driving belt? I look up the code E41 which says "teh control board thinks the door switch is open" How do I check for this? Is it easy to repair it? Could it be something else?

    Thanks

  4. #4
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    Here's how to test the door lock latch switch assembly:

    Remove the door lock assembly and
    measure the resistance of the PTC.

    The PTC is the wax motor on the door lock assembly(Its the WHITE part that sticks out in the photo below, some are ORANGE too). You will need an multimeter to test that. Unplug your washer first!

    If it reads 1500 ohms, then its fine, and the problem would be the control board.

    Here's the door latch/lock assembly for your model you can order:
    Manufacturer part number 131763202 is RepairClinic item number 1531974



    Watch this video to access/change it:




    Here's the control board for your model you can order here:
    Manufacturer part number 134523106 is RepairClinic item number 1191145


    Jake
    Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
    Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
    Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
    Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
    Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

    Look-Up & Order Parts

  5. #5
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    Post

    Thanks Jake,

    In addition to those you mentioned, could it be anything else, like drain hose, drain pump/motor, drain filter that I can easily clean? What about motor driving belt?

  6. #6
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    Like I said above: Does your washer drain fully before the spin cycle? If so, then its possibly a bad door switch latch assembly or bad motor speed controller board.

    If not, then yes check your drain pump first. You can watch the water come out of the drain hose, just pull the drain hose up a little and watch how fast the water comes out into the drain while its in the drain cycle, should be a strong stream.

    Here's the drain pump for your model:
    Manufacturer part number 137108100 is RepairClinic item number 1467779


    Watch this video to access it:




    Jake
    Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
    Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
    Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
    Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
    Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

    Look-Up & Order Parts

  7. #7
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    Post

    I think it does drain properly because the clothes are very wet that I had to hand squueze all the water from the clothes so I can dry them in the dryer. If it does not drain fully before the spin, how come the error code is E41 (just curious)? I just want to make sure to fix the right problem so I don't have to keep on replace the part that I don't need.
    Thanks.

  8. #8
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    If it drains fine, the E41 is a door latch lock issue, thats why I told you above how to test it, if you don't have a meter to test it with, thats how you will get parts you don't need.

    Do you have a meter to test it with?

    Jake
    Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
    Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
    Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
    Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
    Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

    Look-Up & Order Parts

  9. #9
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    Default

    Sorry, I am not good a typer. I meant the washer does NOT drain well because the clothes are still very wet when it stopped working. In this case, could the door lock be another issue in addition to the drain pump? I will borrow my brother the test meter.

    Thanks.

  10. #10
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    Post

    Quote Originally Posted by paulng View Post
    Sorry, I am not good a typer. I meant the washer does NOT drain well because the clothes are still very wet when it stopped working. In this case, could the door lock be another issue in addition to the drain pump? I will borrow my brother the test meter.

    Thanks.

    I just measured the PTC of the door switch and it reads 1100 ohm (I think I measured it correctly). Is it the door switch the problem? Is there any way you can test the drain pump by the multimeter? Would it make any difference if the error code is E47 rather than E41?

    Thanks.

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