November 3rd, 2013, 12:37 PM
Maytag Top Loading Washer will not spin
I have a maytag washer that will not spin, yet the agitator works fine. I have checked the water level hose and it is free of obstructions. The pump is also functioning with the water being pumped out as normal. However, when I hold down the lid switch with a screwdriver to observe the top it does not spin. The tub appears to try to spin up but then then stops as if its slipping. The machine has a single belt on the bottom of the machine and has proper tension.
Could this be caused by something in the transmission or could the bearing be going out. I am not sure how much the fix may cause and if I should buy a new one as its 7 years old.
November 3rd, 2013, 08:56 PM
November 18th, 2013, 07:57 PM
Ok after much swearing and some bloody knuckles i changed the thrust bearing. I then did a test load and much to my dissapointment the clothing still were soaking wet after the end of cycle alarm. I am no beginning to suspect its something in the trans. Also of note when removing the old bearing and pulley i found a large amount of blackish grease around the shaft bearing and cam. Is this nornal?
November 18th, 2013, 08:09 PM
Did it check as being bad?
i changed the thrust bearing
Also of note when removing the old bearing and pulley i found a large amount of blackish grease around the shaft bearing and cam. Is this nornal?
Does the brake release when you manually turn the pulley? Does the tranny turn when you manually turn the pulley?
I then did a test load and much to my dissapointment the clothing still were soaking wet after the end of cycle alarm.
November 18th, 2013, 09:42 PM
the old bearing looked pretty beat up and rattled when shook. I used the thick washer from the repair kit as this was the only washer that was there when I replaced the old bearing. the pulley would spin counterclockwise than stop with resistance. I assumee this the brake. when further turning the pulley the cam would move with the arrow moving to the minimum mark on the pulley. I am not sure if the brake is coming off all the way or not. Is there a way to tell this? If the brake wont release, is this something I could fix or do I need a service call.
November 19th, 2013, 07:15 AM
That is where the brake is suppose to release....
the pulley would spin counterclockwise than stop with resistance. I assumee this the brake.
NOTE: The rotation directions, stated in this outline, view the component from its pulley end. The washer utilizes a reversible type motor which turns clockwise during the Agitate cycle and counter clockwise during the spin cycle. A single belt is used to transmit power from the motor pulley to the drive and pump pulleys. The transmission drive pulley, which drives the transmission drive shaft and hub assembly, and the pump pulley which drives the pump impeller, are in operation whenever the motor is running. The transmission assembly converts the power from the motor to either drive the agitator or spin the basket. The direction the clutch assembly rotates determines which action takes place.When the drive pinion rotates in a clockwise direction, the gear lock mechanism exerts no force on the input pinion. When the input pinion starts to revolve counterclockwise the "wings" drop into dents in the lower housing preventing the pinion from turning.
DRIVE PULLEY AND CAMS
The drive pulley and cam is located below the brake assembly on the drive shaft. All models are equipped with a plastic drive pulley which has the upper cam molded onto the bottom of the hub. The purpose of the pulley and cam arrangement is to drive the clutch assembly during the agitate and spin cycle, and to disengage the brake assembly during the spin cycle. The drive pulley slips over the drive shaft and rests against a series of washers, a thrust bearing, and a large washer type spacer. The spacer locates against the bottom of the brake rotor and lining assembly. The lower cam slips over the end of the drive shaft where splines formed in the cam engage with mating splines on the drive shaft end. This imparts a direct drive from the cam to the drive shaft. A shoulder molded on the bottom of the pulley hub engages "dogs" formed on the sides of the lower cam, and will drive it and the drive shaft in either direction. A washer and retaining ring secure the pulley and cam on the drive shaft. A plastic dust cap snaps to the underside of the pulley to keep the cam surfaces clean.
When the drive pulley rotates CLOCKWISE, the upper and lower cams are designed to nest together which allows the drive pulley to remain in position on the drive shaft. The break remains engaged and the drive pulley will turn the lower cam and drive the shaft to cause the transmission to agitate. The agitation is due to the clockwise (agitate) rotation of the drive shaft and the hub assembly as it is transmitted to the input pinion by the clutch spring. The input pinion meshes with the dual cluster gears which, in turn mesh with the dual crank gears (Figure 2-3). The circular motion of the dual crank gears are converted to the oscillating action of the agitator shaft by the dual rack gears. The rack gears have a stud that drops into the crank gears. These rack gears are contained by a rack carrier. Any tendency of the transmission to turn, or "creep," is prevented by the engaged brake assembly located on the under side of the suspension housing.
When the drive pulley rotates COUNTERCLOCKWISE, the upper cam and pulley ride up the lower cam approximately 3/16 of an inch before the driving shoulders on the pulley hub engage the "dogs" on the lower cam. This causes the top of the pulley hub to push against the spacer which compresses the brake spring and lifts the brake rotor and lining assembly off the brake stator. The brake is disengaged and the pulley will turn the lower cam and drive shaft to cause the transmission to spin. A nylon cam, along with a special drive pulley, provides a cam action which raises the drive pulley during the counterclockwise (spin) rotation of the motor. As the drive pulley hub moves up, it compresses a brake spring and lifts the brake rotor and lining assembly, disengaging it from the stator. The transmission is now free to spin. The counterclockwise rotation of the drive shaft and hub assembly causes the clutch spring to relax into an override position. The clutch spring still exerts a driving force to the input pinion even when it is in the override position. As this driving force of torque starts to turn the input pinion in a counterclockwise direction, it causes the "wings" of the gear lock mechanism to drop into dents on the lower housing. This prevents the input pinion from revolving in the counterclockwise direction. Therefore, the torque being delivered by the clutch spring is exerted against the transmission housing, causing the entire assembly to rotate. The washer basket is mounted to the basket drive hub which is secured to the transmission cover assembly, and revolves as part of the transmission. In this direction, the pump assembly will drain the water out of the unit. The brake assembly is located inside the domed area of the suspension housing and consists of the following components: brake spring retainer, brake spring, rotor and lining assembly and the brake stator. The brake assembly, as well as the snubber, is held in position by the brake stator which is secured to the underside of the suspension housing by six mounting screws. Spring pressure forces the rotor and lining assembly down on the brake stator and prevents the transmission from turning during agitation. As stated previously, the drive pulley and cams provide a cam action which raises the drive pulley during the counterclockwise (spin) direction of the motor. When the drive pulley hub travels upward, it compresses the brake spring and moves the rotor and lining assembly up the drive tube disengaging it from the stator. The transmission is now free to spin. Splines in the brake rotor hub mesh with splines on the drive tube end to provide positive vertical movement for the rotor and lining assembly. The splines are greased for ease of movement.
You can usually see it moving up.
I am not sure if the brake is coming off all the way or not. Is there a way to tell this?
The brake tool is now NLA, so you may need a call to have that checked and/or lubbed.
November 19th, 2013, 02:30 PM
This morning the took the took the washer apart and tried both the thin spacer washer and the thick spacer washer. With the thin washer the pulley would continue to spin CCW with the brake not coming off. I then put the thick washer in. This I spun CCW for some time until I felt tension as the brake was trying to release. As I rotated further the pulley broke free of resistance and just continues to spin. I then spent several minutes spinning the pulley CCW with no signs of brake disengagement. Correct me if im wrong, but I believe this indicates a seized brake rotor, or a failure with in the transmission. the brake also does not move upward at all.
P.S. Before I took the washer apart again, I ran the washer empty with a screwdriver on the lid switch. I set the washer to spin and observed the agitator moving along with the drum trying to spin ever so slightly then stop.
November 19th, 2013, 06:49 PM
Sounds more like a brake or the thrust bearing and pulley are not pushing hard enough against the brake.
Correct me if im wrong, but I believe this indicates a seized brake rotor, or a failure with in the transmission. the brake also does not move upward at all.
November 20th, 2013, 11:46 AM
Thank you for the help you have provided. Since this is my parents machine I may have a repair man come and look at the brakes. Videos online show this to be an extensive job but at 7yrs of age i find the washer to be still worth fixing. Would this be wise or should I tell them to replace the machine.
P.S. are the newer style washers of comprable build quality, some online reviews say otherwise.
November 20th, 2013, 12:09 PM
Not normally an expensive job.
Most newer once last 5-8 years nowadays
As long as the repairs don't go over 50% of the cost to replace the product, we usually advice most to repair rather than replace.
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