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Thread: Knocking during end of spin cycle

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    MN
    Posts
    5

    Default Knocking during end of spin cycle

    Knocking during final spin started about 1 month aga, and became more noticable lately to where it was more of a clunking noise. I checked under the agitator and noticed metal on top of the spin tube.A fews days ago I replaced the drive block as it was worn, but I am still noticing some knocking during end of spin. I checked the new drive block after four loads and it appears that it is taking some punishment as well, as I noticed a few small chips in the casting under the top lip, near where the ears of the spin tub are. The ears on the spin tube are also slightly worn at corners.

    A couple of questions/comments:

    Does the spanner nut have to come in contact with the basket? There's a gap of 1/8" or less between the nut and the basket. If I pull up on the basket after everything is tightened down there is some play, approx. 1/8" or so.

    I removed the tranny/spin tube assembly on this unit earlier this year. I replaced the clutch at that time which corrected a slow spin problem. Is any lubrication required on spin tube, or other areas in the assembly that is being worn out?

    I read on the Web that the brake can stop the basket too suddenly and damage the block. A suggested cure was to add silicone lube to brake pads to lessen drag. Could this be the issue?

    Any help would be greatly appreciated!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    McMullen Valley, Arizona
    Posts
    69,856

    Default

    Does the spanner nut have to come in contact with the basket? There's a gap of 1/8" or less between the nut and the basket. If I pull up on the basket after everything is tightened down there is some play, approx. 1/8" or so.
    Yes, it has to make contact with the spin basket, there should be no play whatsoever.

    Is any lubrication required on spin tube, or other areas in the assembly that is being worn out?
    Nope.

    I read on the Web that the brake can stop the basket too suddenly and damage the block. A suggested cure was to add silicone lube to brake pads to lessen drag. Could this be the issue?
    Possibly, but its always best to just install a new spin tube/basket drive assembly, which includes a new brake.

    Jake
    Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
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  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    MN
    Posts
    5

    Default Knocking at end of spin followup

    Thanks for the reply,Jake. I tightened the spanner nut as far as it would go by hitting with a hammer and extension bit. It appears it won't tighten all the way to the basket. Could there be something wrong with the way the unit is assembled that is causing the gap? Is there something else I could look at?

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    S. Central PA
    Posts
    456

    Default

    did you seat the new block on the spin tube ... 2 knotches must mate with the tube raised tabs... this would giv you that excess clearance.. and if these tabs are damaged you will need another spin tube/basket drive..

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    MN
    Posts
    5

    Default

    Thanks for the reply, Bambiblaster. I made sure the drive block was seated down as far as it would go. I ran a couple loads, there seems to be some noise, not as bad as it was. Do I need to use a spanner wrench to torque that nut properly? The hammer/bit may not be getting the job done. Any other ideas? There is a slight gap between the tabs and groove in the drive block from wear, I suspect. It is just a slight gap. Would this cause some slippage and noise druing spin-down?

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Boise
    Posts
    2

    Default Update on my fixes

    I have four washers using this drive block component. One has been consistently failing. I just replaced the drive block for the 3rd time. THe other three have worked great. The factory may have installed the spanner nut too loosely, as did I on my repairs.

    I now believe that the two tabs were not designed as the mechanism for stopping the tub when the brake is applied. I think the friction between the aluminum coupler (drive block) and the shaft must be sufficient to hold the tub. When it begins to slip, the stopping force it transferred to the tabs and eventually a groove is worn into the block. The two tabs are designed to hold the block while the nut is tightened. Otherwise, the block could spin inside the tub shaft, there is no way to grip the block.

    When the spanner nut is tightened the lower portion of the drive block is compressed onto the drive shaft by the tub. The compression and friction onto the shaft is what stops the spinning. I cleaned the shaft with a heavy duty cleaner in order to remove any grease or soap scum - increasing the friction between the shaft and drive block. Then I lubricated the OUTSIDE of the drive block with silicon grease where it will rub the tub. This is only a small 1/4" conical section at the OUTSIDE lower portion of the drive block. This allows the drive block to move into the tub tube more easily and compresses the lower portion of the drive nut onto the shaft (I hope). I also cleaned inside of the tub tube with a rag - so the drive block had a good surface on which to slide. Where the drive block rubbed earlier was smooth and there was a lot of junk on the surface where the drive block did not touch.

    The spanner nut MUST touch the top of the tub lip in order for the drive block to get jammed in the tub tube. If it is not, as earlier mentioned, you have to figure out why. The external threads of the drive block must extend into the tub tube, or very close. If they do not - perhaps you have the wrong drive block. If they do and you cannot get nut to touch the tube, the threads might be mucked up. Try screwing on the nut when it is not installed in the tub - make sure it spins all the way down the drive block threads.

    I really tightened the nut down by using a pipe wrench - I did not buy a spanner wrench. You do not have to grab the entire nut with the wrench, just one of the slots with the leading jaw and the other rests against an edge. The pipe wrench I used was small enough to fit into the tub horizontally. I was able to apply good torque to the nut via my muscles and then a hammer.

    One additional though I had - after the fact and therefor not acted upon - was to place some loctite on the block / shaft interface surface to increase the friction. Again, I do not think those tabs are designed to hold the braking torques.

    Finally, I did lubricate the brake with silicon grease. It took longer for the tub to stop from its spin cycle but only a second or so. That reduces the applied braking torque and reduces the chance of the block slipping from the shaft.

    Anyone with similar experiences?

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Milbank, South Dakota
    Posts
    397

    Default

    I have see were the spin tube will drop down so things to not go back together right when replacing the block on top.

    The few times I have seen this happen I have had to remove the trany/gearbox and turn the brake in the direction that it releases as you push it back up into place.

    Just a thought....

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Boise
    Posts
    2

    Default My luck is still holding out!

    Fortunately I have not had to go that far.

    I guess my big a-ha was that the two tabs on the drive shaft that hold the drive block in place are not there to keep the block from spinning on the drive shaft, only to hold the block while tightening the spanner nut. The friction between the block and the shaft must be enough to do most of the holding.

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