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Thread: kenmore 70 series wont agitate/spin will drain

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    pocatello
    Posts
    2

    Default kenmore 70 series wont agitate/spin will drain

    Today my kenmore washer 70 series 110.20722.990 started washing went thru the agitator cycle fine. Then when It went into spin mode it would not spin but would drain and made a very strange noise. When started again it would still fill/drain but now it will not agitate and still wont spin.

    From poking around other posts I am starting to believe it is a broken coupler. Any advice would be greatly appreciated

    Thanks Cody

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    S. Central PA
    Posts
    456

    Default

    Here is the step by step procedure..

    http://www.american-appliance.com/se...sher_diag.html

    Motor Coupler Replacement direct drive
    Whirlpool / Kenmore / Roper / Kitchen Aid washer ?

    If you have ever tried to check out the direct drive washer manufactured by Whirlpool Corp., you found out pretty quickly that you can't hardly do anything until the cabinet is removed. The older Whirlpool Corp. washers with a belt do not have a removable cabinet.
    Back of
    Direct Drive
    Back of
    Belt Drive Washer

    While it may sound like a pain to have to remove the cabinet, in reality it is really simple, and it makes getting to the parts a breeze.
    All you need is a Phillips screwdriver and a flat blade screwdriver.
    First step, of course is to unplug the machine. Then remove the 2 Phillips screws on the bottom of the timer console.
    The timer console in hinged in the back. Pull the console forward slightly to clear the hooks on the bottom of the end caps, and roll the console up from the bottom on it's hinges.
    Under the console you will see a 3 wire harness that is plugged into the top of the cabinet. Unplug this harness
    Using the flat blade screwdriver, pop off the 2 metal clips that are holding the back panel to the top of the cabinet. These clips are sort of "S" shaped, and are located near the left and right edges of the top of the cabinet.

    Grasp the cabinet on each side, pull the top of the cabinet towards you to a 45 degree angle. Pull straight back on the cabinet and it will slip right off.

    Remove the pump clips and slide the pump off of the shaft

    Motor Front Shaft - check pump for leakage and check front bearing in motor for play

    Unplug motor harness and cap if used

    Remove screws in motor clips

    Pry motor clips loose

    Remove motor



    Pry coupler off of motor shaft

    Remove motor mount plate

    Pry other half of coupler off of transmission shaft

    Install new coupler and reinstall everything in reverse order
    To replace the cabinet

    Put the cabinet up to the front edge of the base, open the lid so you can see the inside bottom of the cabinet.
    Tilt the cabinet to a 45 degree angle and slip the bottom front lip of the cabinet under the front of the base (make sure the console is hinged up).
    Now let the cabinet go down. There are 2 dowels on each side of the base that must match up with slots on the side bottom lips of the cabinet.
    After the cabinet is in place, look at the back and make sure it is lining up properly on one side. Reinstall the "S" bracket on that side.
    Now move to the other side. Line it up properly and reinstall the "S" bracket on that side.
    Plug in the harness.
    Lower the console, and reinstall the screws.




    Back of cabinet locks into base

    Side of cabinet NOT locked in

    Side of cabinet properly locked in.


  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    pocatello
    Posts
    2

    Default

    Thank you very much does that sound like a coupler problem to you?

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    S. Central PA
    Posts
    456

    Default

    Yes it does sound like the coupler

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