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Thread: LWA50AW washer tub seal leak

  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    south louisiana
    Posts
    12

    Default LWA50AW washer tub seal leak

    I've read this post which helped a lot. http://www.applianceblog.com/mainfor...ead.php?t=2303 I have it completely disassembled, but I can't find the actual tub seal in the Repair Clinic online catalog. Also, my aluminum tub hub doesn't look like the one in the catalog photo and it doesn't have the cork seal like in the photo. http://www.repairclinic.com/referral...=1265&N=768887 Mine looks like http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=1265&N=864 Here's the tub seal at the bottom of the tub that I need help finding. Also, picture of the hub and seal. Can you guys show me where to find the correct seal(s)?
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  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    McMullen Valley, Arizona
    Posts
    67,170

    Default

    Here is the correct Seal kit for your model:
    Washer tub hub and seal kit

    Don't worry, its the right one guaranteed, it comes with instructions.

    Also there is always a 365 day full refund on any part you order.

    Jake
    Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
    Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
    Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
    Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
    Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

    Look-Up & Order Parts

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    south louisiana
    Posts
    12

    Default

    Thanks Jake. I got the kit and you were right. It is the corrrect parts. One part that concerned me was applying the red sealant to the drum lip before installing the seal. It states in the instructions to not allow any sealant to contact the outer lip of the seal where it contacts the bottom of the tub. But looking at the old seal and the tub, the sealant had squeezed out under the seal from the factory install. I couldn't find the red sealant anywhere so I used Loctite Black that is used for engines, water pumps, intake manifolds, etc. I figured if it can stand up to 210* of greasy water, it should take the stress of a washing machine. I cleaned the tub lip area with a brass brush on an air grinder and got it clean and smooth. I ran a short load last night about an hour after I reassembled and all appears to be well. It was quite labor intensive, but I pulled the entire unit out of the cabinet to work on it. I put a belt on it while I had apart. Now it's quieter than before. I guess I saved $750 for a comparable unit. Hope wifey appreciates it!

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    McMullen Valley, Arizona
    Posts
    67,170

    Default

    Good job fixing it, yes, its very labor intensive, but saves money when you do-it-yourself.

    Jake
    Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
    Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
    Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
    Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
    Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

    Look-Up & Order Parts

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    south louisiana
    Posts
    12

    Default

    Cool part is....Momma's happy! Now I've got a leverage point. "Hey...I fixed that washing machine!"

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    McMullen Valley, Arizona
    Posts
    67,170

    Default

    Yes, very true!

    Jake
    Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
    Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
    Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
    Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
    Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

    Look-Up & Order Parts

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Starkville MS
    Posts
    1

    Default Amana LW8363W2 - Seal leak

    I have a 10 year old Amana with a severe leak. I can see water streaming out pretty good from the bottom and middle portion of the outer tub... right above the transmission. I'm assuming it must be the seal.

    I have now removed the inner tub and even though my model isn't the same as the previous post from rh455 the pictures shown look like mine. I'm now at an impasse because i can't figure out how to get that sprocket off of the spindle, which I'm assuming when done will expose seals, etc. that will need replacing. Do I just try to force it off?

    Am I on target here? I would sincerely appreciate any help/advice.

    Thanks so much.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    south louisiana
    Posts
    12

    Default

    yes. i soaked mine for an hour or more with pb blaster from any auto parts store. i also used a bearing puller also from an auto parts store. if i remember right i might have used a little heat from a mapp gas torch. once off, i wire wheeled the splines real good then used a little never seize going back together. i couldn't find any of that special red sealer for the main seal so i used permatex ultra black that you use on intake manifolds on cars. let it dry for at least an hour and it works great. change that triangle looking bearing under the drum also if not you'll have to do this all over again. sorry about the typing, just had shoulder surgery.

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