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Thread: Neptune TL Washer FAV6800AWW

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
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    Canton, MI
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    Default Neptune TL Washer FAV6800AWW

    Model Number: FAV6800AWW
    Brand: Maytag

    HI -

    We have a the Neptune TL Washer and it is failing halfway through the cycle. When it gets in the rinse or spin mode when washing small loads of heavy items it is struggling to balance the load. Then we get the dc or uc error code. It seems to work fine when running large loads. It also runs fine when it is completely empty. A and E sent a technician and after scratching his head awhile he ordered a Tub Sensor and a Pressure Switch. His diagnosis was when it stops running there is still water in the tub. I think it should have water in the tub when when it first starts spinning, then it pumps it out. Also I think the tub sensor is working fine because when it trys to spin and is out of balance, it stops and tries to balance the load. After about 3 tries of rebalancing the load it stops. Do any experts on here know what typically is at fault on this model when it is unable to balance small loads? It just started having this problem. It's in the 3-5 year range on the warranty and I'll find out in a week when the A and E technician comes out to install the new parts, but I didn't get a good feeling about this guys capabilities, and it seems like the parts he wants to replace are not the problem.

    The reason why the I think the parts he ordered are not the problem is when it's out of balance, it stops - that's how the tub sensor is supposed to work right? When it is in balance it pumps the water out fine - that's how the pressure switch is supposed to work right?

    Thanks

    Barry

  2. #2
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    Aug 2004
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    McMullen Valley, Arizona
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    Default

    I never worked on these before myself, but I found a similar thread about this here: Maytag FAV6800AWW won't spin

    From what gmannine says, its either the out-of-balance sensor or the clutch.

    Here is the out-of-balance sensor(Tub displacement sensor kit)
    for your model:
    12002194 Tub Displacement Sensor



    Here is the clutch:
    12002211 Pulley & Clutch Assy


    Jake
    Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
    Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
    Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
    Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
    Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

    Look-Up & Order Parts

  3. #3
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    Minnesota
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    Default

    A major design defect with these washers is the fact you can not wash a small load. You will have balance issues. Due to the fact it runs fine with larger loads, I would say there is nothing wrong. If the tech comes back, tell him to call technicial assistance and they will tell him the same so it can be documented.

    Greg

  4. #4
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    SC
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    Default Neptune TL, dc error code

    We've recently had that happen also, and it's not really out of balance, at least in our case. From what I understand, the solenoid apparently isn't working properly on the right side latch that signals the machine when the lid is properly closed. When my hubby did the necessary pushing to make that side of the lid "catch", the machine finished the cycle. Now it figure out how to fix it!
    It appears that both latches must be in to spin and drain the machine. the left hand latch in, right hand latch out, will allow the machine to go through most of the cycle, however, both must be in to spin and drain.
    Last edited by Loey; November 11th, 2008 at 12:46 PM.

  5. #5
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    Default

    Part 1; DC or UC unbalance error codes in Spin Cycle what is causing this issue?

    FAV6800A/FAV9800A Service manual from this site.

    Assumptions; Front Struts and TDS are not malfunctioning. These can be easily checked by visual inspection and a diag routine from the Service Manual. TDS check on page 19 of the FAV6800A/FAV9800A Service Manual.

    Your FAV6800A or FAV9800A is going off balance with DC or UC unbalance error codes during spin cycle and you see/hear the wash tub banging around at the start of Spin Cycle of the wash cycle or a Spin Only cycle. If this is the condition the TDS (Tub Displacement Sensor) is working as designed and signaling the Control Board properly of an unbalance wash load condition.

    The Control Board receives a varying D.C . Voltage from the TDS sensor and if the out of range D.C. Voltage limit continues the Control Board will halt the Spin Cycle and try to redistribute the wash load. If you are interested I will show you how to monitor the TDS input to the Control Board with a DVM.

    The Control Board then starts the Spin Cycle again. If the wash tub/basket out of balance condition continues the Control Board will attempt another redistribute of the wash load. After several attempts (4 to 5 I believe) the Control Board will shut down the Spin Cycle and send a error code DC or UC to the LED display of the FAV6800A, my machine type. And I believe a text statement to the LCD screen of the FAV9800A machine i.e. something like “Unbalance Condition” I’m not sure what the text message is.


    These Maytag TL models use a Clutch Pulley that incorporates One-Way Roller Clutch bearings in the clutch pulley hub. If the first two digits of your serial number start with a 10 or 11 then you have a Series 10 or 11 machines and the Clutch Pulley will use an Upper One-Way bearing ring with this series.

    Most later series do not use the Upper Bearing ring. Maytag in their wisdom (or lack of) shifted the location of that One-Way Roller bearing ring set to be incorporated as part of the Lower Outer Tub bearing assembly. Good luck trying to find that assembly. If you ever have to change the Outer Tub bearings in a series 12 and above machine I can help you with some info. I have only changed out the Outer Tub bearings on a series 10 machine. I did work on line with a forum member that had a work around using standard off the shelf 6207-2RS bearings and some shims for a series 15 machine. That’s for another part of the FAV6800A sticky.


    The root cause of the DC or UC unbalance error code is caused by the Clutch Pulley One-Way Needle Roller clutch bearings not locking up in the CCW direction (the Spin direction) as the Washer enters into a spin cycle.

    Here is the wash cycle process with more detail;
    The Control Board runs thru wash cycle selected signaling the Motor Controller to power the Washer Motor to spin the Clutch Pulley with Clock Wise rotation. The Clutch Pulley rotates CW driving the Agitator shaft to drive the transmission rotating the tumblers. The Clutch Pulley One-Way Needle Roller clutch bearings rotate freely in the CW direction the wash/agitate direction of Clutch Pulley Rotation.

    As you reach the Spin Cycle of the selected wash cycle the Control Board signals the Motor Controller (PWM digital signal) to drive/power the washer motor in the CCW direction.

    The One-Way Roller Clutch bearings should lock up solid with CCW Clutch Pulley rotation. Once the large wrap spring comes under tension in the Clutch Pulley hub the wash basket will begin to rotate CCW the Spin direction.

    When the Clutch Pulley One-Bearings become dry they fail to lock up solid in the CCW direction and they slip. This will cause slight agitator rotation causing tumbler movement with CCW rotation (Spin Direction) of the Clutch Pulley. Excessive tumbler movement in Spin Cycle will drag the wash load off balance causing the wash tub to swing off balance. Some folks have gotten thru this issue with extra load in the wash basket to help stall/add resistance to tumbler movement during the start of spin cycle.

    With no wash load in the wash basket you complete the spin cycle regardless of tumbler movement….. there is no wash load to drag off balance and the Spin Cycle completes.

    That’s my overview as an owner of the machine. I have helped many owners thru this issue that wanted to DIY the fix and extend the machines service life. Mine failed at the 3.5 yr mark with DC/UC unbalance error codes.

    In Part 2 we will go over removing Clutch Pulley. If the Clutch Pulley One-Way Roller Clutch bearings can be cleaned up and re-lubed you could be back in service quickly. If they are rusted up or the Large Wrap Spring is broken it would be time to replace the Clutch Pulley assembly..…..Dick
    Last edited by dh1200s; September 21st, 2011 at 12:07 PM. Reason: Correction

  6. #6
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    Default Part 2; Clutch Pulley Removal

    Part 2; Clutch Pulley Removal

    Follow all safety warnings in the Service Manual and remove 120VAC power to the washer before working on the machine.

    I feel the best way to work on the machine is lay it down on it’s back with a 4X4 just below where the drain line exits the machine. Have some bath towels around for any water that may drain out. You can turn on the Drain Pump in Service Mode to drain out as much water as possible from the washer.

    Raise the top of the machine. Insert a flat blade putty knife approximately 2.5” from the left and right sides of the washer top, depress the spring tabs securing machine top to the washer base. See page 33 of the SM for putty knife insertion point.

    With a 5/16 nut driver or 5/16 ¼ socket on an extension to remove front panel see page 41 of the Service Manual remove the front panel.

    Tools required;
    3/8 inch socket and socket wrench to remove clutch pulley bolt. Page 47 of the SM

    1/2 inch socket or wrench to loosen Drive Motor tension bolt.

    5/16 nut driver or 5/16 ¼ socket on an extension to remove front panel.

    1. Lean the washer back and blocked up in that position against a wall for a better reach angle or on the floor as described above. Loosen the 3/8” clutch Pulley bolt. The 3/8" bolt is standard thread not reverse. I find it easier to lay the machine down on the back panel blocked up tp clear the drain line exit. Then hold the Clutch Pulley with one hand and loosen the 3/8" bolt with a socket wrench.

    2. Follow SM page 46 & 47 to remove clutch pulley.

    3. Remove 4 screws holding plastic cover on clutch assembly see Pic 1. Inspect clutch spring to make sure it is not broken. If either clutch spring retaining end is broken off then the clutch must be replaced. Inspect Roller Clutch bearings and clean up with WD-40 and re-lube with Slick 50 One Lube. Some machine series use an Upper Roller Clutch bearing and always a lower clutch pulley Roller Clutch bearing. My series 16 machine doesn’t use the Upper Roller Clutch one way bearing. These bearings are one way rotation bearings in the Clockwise direction. Make sure the Spinner Shaft Coupler will rotate freely in the CW direction in both Roller Clutch bearings. If the Roller Clutch bearings or Spinner Shaft Coupler will not clean up with WD-40 I recommend a clutch replacement.

    4. Replace white bearing plate into clutch pulley hub, insure key slot slips into clutch Spring pin in the clutch hub.

    5. Replace Clutch plastic cover with 4 screws.

    6. Reinstalling the Clutch Pulley assembly is the most difficult part of the process. With a tight work area try a test fitment of seating (if used) the Upper Roller Clutch bearing with the notches into the bottom of the wash tub. Then insert the Spinner Shaft Coupler into that bearing rotating CW to reseat the coupler notches to the spinner shaft. Then the clutch pulley to the squared end agitator shaft. Rock back and forth the clutch pulley assembly with upward lifting pressure to reseat the clutch assembly. When the clutch assembly is properly seated you will feel a 1/16-1/8" gap between the Pulley face and shaft end as mentioned and shown on page 47 of the SM. On reinstallation, tighten Clutch Pulley bolt to 96” pounds 8’ foot pounds (Snug no torque wrench required). The Clutch Pulley 3/8 bolt is standard thread not reverse.

    7. Do a quick wash and make sure clutch runs true with no wobble or clicking sound. If the clutch has not been seated properly it will spin off. If this happens go to page 16 of the SM Board Output Test and turn on Drain Pump in Service Mode to pump out excess water.

    8. Repeat steps 6&7 if the clutch has excessive noise or spins off.

    Before you clean up the Clutch Pulley One-Way Roller Needle bearing try this little test to better understand what the issue is;

    See Pic 1, 3 and 4;

    Holding what I call the Spinner Shaft coupler first picture. Insert that coupler into the Clutch One-Way Roller bearing plate. Now while holding the Spinner Shaft Coupler with one hand as I show in the 4th pic with your other hand rotate the white bearing plate in the CW direction around the Spinner Shaft Coupler.

    The One-Way Roller Clutch bearing plate should rotate freely in the CW direction this is the wash/agitate direction. Now rotate the One-Way Roller Clutch bearing plate in the CCW direction it should lock up solid.

    Most times the One-Way Roller clutches will slip did it slip for you? This will cause the agitator shaft to move slightly causing slight tumbler rotation while the wash basket begins to spin up unbalancing the wash load causing big time wash tub swings and those pesky unbalance error codes.

    I hope you have success post back with any questions.....Dick
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    Last edited by dh1200s; January 31st, 2011 at 09:17 PM.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
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    Default

    This post is to help with issues related to the Left Hand Lid Lock for FAV6800A or FAV9800A machines.

    Follow all safety warnings in the Service Manual and remove 120VAC power to the washer before working on the machine.

    Your machine is displaying error codes to the LED display such as OP, OD, FL. I’m not sure what the FAV9800A LCD version of this TL will display.

    These error codes are related primarily to the Left Hand Lid Lock. Due to its location near the Bleach Dispenser that lid lock suffers big time from corrosion issues. I recommend you disconnect the plug end of the Right Hand Lid Lock and tape up that plug to simplify troubleshooting.

    The machine will operate as designed with just the Left Hand Lid Lock in operation. The Left Hand Lid Lock has dual functions that the Right Hand Lid Lock does not support. That is via a Magnet in the Lid assembly which operates the Magnetic Reed Relay in the Left Hand Lid Lock for signaling the Lid Is Open “OP” error code and via Control Board monitoring the “OD” error code when the Control Board has not sensed that the Lid has been opened for three machine cycles.

    The OP error code the “Lid Is Open” and “Lid is Closed” loss of signaling could be caused by a lid magnet out of position.

    If your machine is issuing an “OP” error code to the LED display or LCD display. I would first check for a Lid magnet out of position. This check is very easy. With the OP error code showing and the Washer Lid open/raised. Place a strong magnet over the Left Side Grey rubber bumper and see if the OP error code clears. See the Pic below with magnets placed on the left side Gray lid bumper.

    If the OP error code cleared then go to the Service Manual “see pic page 35 top left for the Lid Magnet” and follow the SM for access/inspection of the Lid Magnet. If the “OP” error code did not clear its time to dig deeper with troubleshooting into the Left Hand Lid Lock assembly.

    Severe corrosion in the Left hand Lid Lock could cause the lead from the Magnetic Reed Relay to break off (see the 1st Pic” and open up the signaling path thru the Left Hand Lid Lock preventing signaling to the Control Board for a “Lid Is Open/Lid Is Closed” most of the time this is the issue. If so you can try to re-solder the lead on the Magnetic Reed relay or replace the Left Hand Lid Lock assembly if you don’t want to attempt the repair.

    OK an external magnet on the Left Hand Grey Bumper does not clear the “OP” error code. It’s now time to remove the Left Hand Lid Lock. Follow the SM for Lid Lock removal page 34. I find it easier to remove the ¼” hex screw and hold the lid lock in my hand then remove the plug from the lid lock.

    Corrosion in the plug end could make it very difficult to remove the plug end from the lid lock. Be careful you do stress/cause damage to the lid lock assembly when removing that assembly.

    With the Left Hand Lid lock removed gently open up the assembly top cover. The locking tabs break off in a heartbeat. Take your time here working the top cover off.

    Once the top cover is off review for corrosion issues and a possible open lead issue on the Magnetic Reed Relay sees pic’s below. Clean up the corrosion issues if any. I use WD-40 and an emery finger nail file board to clean up the male pins in the Left Hand Lid Lock.

    Reassemble/reinstall the Left Hand Lid Lock and give it a try. If you still have issues, post as a new problem and I or others will try to help. Please don’t post in the sticky unless you have a correction or troubleshooting support update for the sticky.

    The “FL” error code for Failed to Lock. This could be caused by loss of signaling back to the Control Board. This issue could be caused by a washer lid alignment issue and the Lid Latch does not protrude into the lid properly or over shoots the lock position maybe caused by a distorted washer lid.

    The Control Board will attempt to lock the lid 6 times or so before it issues a “FL” error code for Failed to Lock.

    There is a slide switch mechanism in the Left Hand Lid Lock assembly that will send +12.0 VDC back to the Control Board for “Lid Is locked” when the Lid Lock is operating as designed. See attached pic where I monitor signaling at the Control Board. The Pic with the DVM shows me montoring +12.0VDC at the Control Baord. You can monitor back to the Control Board with a DVM for the “Lid is Open” the “Lid is Closed” and the "Lid is Locked" +12.0VDC signaling at the Control Board Conn_P3 for nailing down the fault location causing the error code.

    If you still have issues start a new post outside of the sticky and I or others will help…….Dick
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    Last edited by dh1200s; February 10th, 2011 at 10:54 AM.

  8. #8
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    Default

    More troubleshooting and repair notes will be added as required i.e.

    · Outer Tub bearing replacement Series 10 thru 18 I'm not sure where the series ended.
    · Spinner Support bearing replacement.
    · Water inlet valve/Dispenser Valve and Pressure Switch troubleshooting/repair.
    · TDS (Tub Displacement Sensor) troubleshooting/repair.
    · Control Board, Console, and Motor Controller issues are bit more difficult troubleshoot and most often require known good parts to troubleshoot/repair.

    From what I have seen the drive motor in these two models is rock solid.

    Please post outside the sticky with your issue.

    Outer Tub Parts list for FAV6800A/FAV9800A Outer Tub rebuild

    Tub Seal 25001090 Order now for same day shipping. 365 day return policy. RepairClinic.com



    Transmission O-Ring Qty (1) Not sure of the p/n no exploded part view to choose from.

    6207-2RS bearings I checked with RC Customer service they don’t carry the bearings. You may have to Google.


    Clutch 12002211 Order now for same day shipping. 365 day return policy. RepairClinic.com
    Last edited by dh1200s; March 14th, 2011 at 07:30 PM.

  9. #9
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    Default

    Thanks Dick, I closed this sticky, I moved the other guys post to a new thread in this same forum: FIXED Neptune Freeze Up

    Jake
    Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
    Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
    Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
    Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
    Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

    Look-Up & Order Parts

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