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Thread: Whirlpool SxS Freezer / refrigerator not cold enough

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Portland, OR
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    5

    Default Whirlpool SxS Freezer / refrigerator not cold enough

    Whirlpool/Kirkland model# SS22AEXHW02, mfg 8/2000.

    This site has been very helpful in my previous problem of the starter relay, which was replaced 4 months ago.

    Now I have a new problem that just cropped up, that the freezer and refrigerator are cool, but not cold enough. It seems to be a cycle of being too warm, then turning on, and cooling down nice and cold, but then clicking off at some point, and not cycling back on soon enough.

    Here's what I've done:

    I removed the back panel in the freezer, no significant frost build up.

    When in run mode, the coils are frosting evenly.

    The defrost timer is advancing.

    When I cycled it to defrost mode, the heater does not come on.

    I checked the continuity of the heater element, somewhere around 20-30 Ohms.

    I removed the defrost thermostat, shorted the lines together, replaced the back panel, and set the defrost timer to "run", allowed to run for 45 minutes to let defrost thermostat close, turned the defrost timer to "defrost mode", heater still does not come on.

    I pulled the defrost timer out of the refrigerator. And here is my main question:
    My timer is a #2188375, but it has been replaced by #482493. I checked the pins with a multimeter, and while I get continuity between 1 and 2 for one of the cycles, and 1 and 4 for the other cycle, I don't get any continuity between the common pin #3 and either 4 or 2 in the other cycles. I've read on other pages that this SHOULD have continuity in the defrost mode - is this the case?

    The main control thermostat has been set in the middle - it's almost acting like the thermostat is not working right - I got up this morning, and the timer had not hit a defrost cycle yet (timer is a 10 hour cycle on mine), but the compressor and fans were all off, and both the refrigerator and freezer were too warm. Is there a way to check the main thermostat?

    It appears that I definitely have a defrost issue, but maybe also the main thermostat as well. Any ideas?

    Thanks in advance.
    Robert
    Last edited by rj555; July 13th, 2007 at 12:16 PM.

  2. #2
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    Jul 2007
    Location
    Portland, OR
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    Default ...and what's a "Flying Lead"?

    The replacement defrost timer, 482493 has an extra "flying lead". What do I do with this if I end up replacing my defrost timer - my current one has no such lead.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Portland, OR
    Posts
    5

    Default Disregard 1st post in this thread - bad diagnostics

    Disregard the first post there - I had a connector in wrong, and so there are several wires that just had no connection. At this point, I'm leaning to defrost thermostat. I'll update when I get more info.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Portland, OR
    Posts
    5

    Default Solved

    It's working fine now.

    At this point, all I think of is that by taking the connections apart and putting them back together, that the defroster is working properly now.

    I also got out quite a bit of dust bunny, doghair, etc. from the condenser coils.

    Working great again, for now.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    McMullen Valley, Arizona
    Posts
    70,014

    Default

    Sorry I couldn't reply sooner, its extremely busy this time of year.

    Glad its working good again.

    Jake
    Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
    Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
    Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
    Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
    Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

    Look-Up & Order Parts

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Portland, OR
    Posts
    5

    Default Cold Control

    I spoke too soon - the refrigerator would be running fine, then the next morning, it was warm again.

    With the defrost system working right, I started to look at the cold control.

    I read somewhere that if you hit the dial with the palm of your hand, and it starts the refrigerator back up, it's the cold control - the contacts are bad, but popping it with your hand makes enough of a momentary contact to get the compressor running again. Well, this was the case - it started right up when I bumped it with my hand.

    I then disconnected it from the wires and got infinite resistance across the contacts, even when the dial was turned all the way to "coldest".

    Knowing I would be replacing it, I had to take it apart so see what was going on inside it. There are two strips of metal with a "button" on them that make contact - like the points in an older automobile distributor (the mechanical kind). That narrow tube that comes out of the thermostat and runs along the upper corner of the refrigerator is filled with air or some kind of gas that drops in pressure due to the cold, and this deflects an armature that pulls the contacts open....the dial sets how far the armature has to move before the contacts get pulled open - hence the thermostat action.

    Well, there was a lot of carbon all around, and those contacts were fried. I tried cleaning with contact cleaner, and then a piece of sandpaper, but it still was just intermittent....

    Time for a new cold control thermostat. Because of the design, it looks like it can often be in a "half-connected half-disconnected" state that can arc/spark...so I don't know if there is a way to prevent those contacts from going bad in the future. I got 7 years out of this one. If the new one lasts 7 years, I guess it will be ok.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    San Diego
    Posts
    2

    Default Flying Lead

    Quote Originally Posted by rj555 View Post
    The replacement defrost timer, 482493 has an extra "flying lead". What do I do with this if I end up replacing my defrost timer - my current one has no such lead.
    RJ,
    I bought the 482493 timer, and have the same problem. It has that "flying lead" and I have no idea which one to put it on. I have an Orange, White, Black and Pink wires. But I don't know which ones to connect it to. I can't find the schematic that goes to my freezer. Sears Kenmore(i.e. Whirlpool) PN-106724240. When I hook up the Wires, I'm going by Procedure #2. But I'm just not sure. I put the click the timer to defrost, that works, and then after a short time, the fan and compressor kicks on, but I've been checking and I don't think the timer is kicking into defrost mode.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    McMullen Valley, Arizona
    Posts
    70,014

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by JimmyinSanDiego View Post
    RJ,
    I bought the 482493 timer, and have the same problem. It has that "flying lead" and I have no idea which one to put it on. I have an Orange, White, Black and Pink wires. But I don't know which ones to connect it to. I can't find the schematic that goes to my freezer. Sears Kenmore(i.e. Whirlpool) PN-106724240. When I hook up the Wires, I'm going by Procedure #2. But I'm just not sure. I put the click the timer to defrost, that works, and then after a short time, the fan and compressor kicks on, but I've been checking and I don't think the timer is kicking into defrost mode.
    I posted a reply here for your question:
    http://www.applianceblog.com/mainforums/showthread.php?t=9970

    Jake
    Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
    Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
    Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
    Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
    Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

    Look-Up & Order Parts

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