You can temporarily bypass them if you want to check it. They're both single pole single throw or basically on off switches. If you bypass both switches the unit should start.
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You can temporarily bypass them if you want to check it. They're both single pole single throw or basically on off switches. If you bypass both switches the unit should start.
I am so confident that you found the problem - I am not even going to spend the effort. I am just going to buy the pressure switch and the original timer that created the problem in the first place and the unit will be repaired.
I might add - there would be no need to bypass the bin switch. It's fine according to my continuity test. I could bypass the pressure switch and just turn the bin switch to "on" and it should work. Like I wrote above - I am so confident now of the diagnosis - that replacing the pressure switch will work.
I'll let you know once I successfully buy the parts and install them.
(interesting - the switch is $4.95: V7-3E17D8 - Honeywell - V73E17D8 - datasheet - but I have to buy the whole assembly for easy repair which will cost me $81.00 - lesson learned on not shutting off the circuit breaker).
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I was referring to a new pressure switch but I'm glad you mentioned that. Looking at the wiring diagram, the one by the pump, is the "pump pressure switch". The "safety pressure switch" is up by the timer and bin switch.
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I was referring to a new pressure switch but I'm glad you mentioned that. Looking at the wiring diagram, the one by the pump, is the "pump pressure switch". The "safety pressure switch" is up by the timer and bin switch.
Hi Rick - The safety pressure switch and the pump pressure switch are physically right next to each other on the same mounting. In fact, I have to buy the whole unit (both switches) even though only one of the switches is bad. In the picture I posted earlier, I showed only the switch itself which is a $4.00 part. The part below (which I have to get) is an $80.00 part. I can't get the $4.00 part quickly like I can the other one in order to put my ice maker back in operation.
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Hi Rick - I just wanted to let you know that the ice maker is all fixed and running like new again.
It was the high pressure switch which was shorted (my fault for not shutting off the circuit breaker first) and the replacement part I installed today brought power back to the unit just like the schematic you posted above showed.
There was nothing wrong with the bin switch and it's working normally.
I also replaced the timer which was the problem in the first place and the ice maker is now cycling properly - it makes ice, flushes the reservoir and cycles like it should. By this time tomorrow I should have ice again to go with my Scotch. Perfectly shaped barrel ice - crystal clear and wet.
Thanks again for your help - especially the schematic.
Awesome! You did a good job on the diagnosis and repair!
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