Wirpool Duet says "sensing" and won't run - ApplianceBlog.com

***asantoropr*** · #1 March 19th, 2008, 04:31 PM

Model gew9200lw0 ser duet front load dryer

Stopped working and when on hit the "on" button and hit "start" the light next to "sensing" comes on but it does not turn on.

I also noticed recently it may not have been trying clothes as well on the mode where it senses when they are dry.

I tried a timed dry and it still gave me the same "sensing" message and did not work.

Thanks for your help

Suggestion for where to buy any parts. I live in Puerto Rico and have nto had success with repair people in the past.

***Jake*** · #2 March 19th, 2008, 05:52 PM

Hi,

Here's the tech. data sheet to help you:
http://www.servicematters.com/docs/w...%203979300.pdf

WON’T START CYCLE
WHEN START BUTTON IS
PRESSED.
1. If number display flashes, check to be sure the
door is completely shut, and press and hold down Start
for about 1 second.

2. See TEST #2.

3. See TEST #6.

Here's the electronic control board for your model, they ship to Puerto Rico for a flat $19.95 shipping fee:

Manufacturer's Number: 8546219

8546219

Jake

***kamio*** · #3 October 27th, 2009, 09:49 AM

I have a similar problem as the last person. My Whirpool Gold Senseon (model #GEX9868JQ1) will not get past the sensing part of the drying cycle so it won't dry the clothes. It makes an audible sound as the light blinks in sensing mode. ~I don't know if this has anything to do with it, but the last time it worked I stopped it at the end of the cylce with 3 min left and the clothes were so hot they could have burned me if I didn't leave them to cool. The dryer was in cool down mode at that time but it certainly wasn't cooling them down.~ This leads me to believe that the sensing function isn't working, but I'm not an expert. So any ideas as to what is wrong or what part needs to be replaced?

Thanks in advance,
Heather

***Jake*** · #4 October 27th, 2009, 10:10 AM

Hi Heather,

Here's the tech. data sheet for your model:
http://www.servicematters.com/docs/w...%208532034.pdf
Do the diagnostics test on page 3 and also do the Moisture Sensor test#4 on page 9.
You can print this tech. data sheet out to have it with you at your dryer.

Let me know what you find.

Jake

***kamio*** · #5 October 28th, 2009, 07:08 AM

Jake,
Ok so I did the tests (my dad helped) and the first thing I noticed is that when we did the page 4 'Console Switches & Indicators Test' the Start button test failed. It did not change the display to "HE" or turn the motor or heater on. It did display something else but I didn't write that down. (I can check again when I get home if necessary.) Next, we moved on to Test #4 on page 9. When performing step 2, a beep tone was heard and a software revision number (3E) was displayed on the console as soon as the door was opened. So we moved onto step 4 as indicated and the final result was that the ohmmeter indicated an open circuit (it just showed 1 all the way to the left) but when the next arrow part was performed the resistance was more than 1 Mohm; it was 3 something. So we did all the other steps (5-7) and those parts worked. Because step 4 seemed to past after the 2nd part, we moved onto Test #3a as indicated by step 8. We did the 1st 2 steps in that test but not step 3 (I don't remember why), but we ended up assuming it was the electronic control that needed to be replaced. However, I'm not sure we had the ohmmeter on the right setting (it was set to 20 Mohm) or we did a thorough enough test. Should we go back and do step 3 on TEST #3a and also the "Checking Touchpad Functioning" on page 11?

Thanks for your help!
Heather

***Jake*** · #6 October 28th, 2009, 10:18 AM

Quote:

So we moved onto step 4 as indicated and the final result was that the ohmmeter indicated an open circuit (it just showed 1 all the way to the left) but when the next arrow part was performed the resistance was more than 1 Mohm; it was 3 something.

Did the ohm meter move at all? Usually a reading of 0-1 is good.

If the ohm meter didn't move at all, its bad.

Having it on 20 ohms is fine.

Try the 200 ohm setting.

Jake

***kamio*** · #7 October 28th, 2009, 10:39 AM

No the ohmmeter didn't move at all when it showed the 1. And the 1 didn't look like it was in the right place for a reading. It was all the way to the left (my dad said this meant it was infinty). So it must be bad.

***Jake*** · #8 October 28th, 2009, 02:26 PM

Yes, then thats correct, sounds like a bad control board.

Here's the control board for your model:
Manufacturer's Number: 280071

280071

You can return it if you install it and it didn't fix it for a full refund within 30 days.

If you have any problems returning a part, Adam is our Representative, here's his email:
adam@appliancepartspros.com

Jake

***kamio*** · #9 November 3rd, 2009, 07:05 AM

Jake,
We got the new control board and it didn't fix the problem. We tested the thermal fuse and it's been blown but we haven't figured out what blew it. My dad bypassed the fuse and we got the motor to turn on (using the old control board) but there was still that loud clicking noise. So we're going to try and read that tech data sheet some more to figure out why the fuse went bad. I was thinking maybe the high limit thermostat went bad since the last time the dryer worked it was way overly hot, but I'm not sure how to test if it's bad or not. Maybe it was just that it was late but the directions didn't seem very clear on that part (which was TEST #3). If you have any suggestions please let me know. And please send me a link to the thermal fuse part so I can purchase that.

Thanks!
Heather

***Jake*** · #10 November 3rd, 2009, 09:32 AM

Ok Heather,

Here's the thermal fuse for your model:
Manufacturer's Number: 3390719

The main reason the thermal fuse blows is air flow restrictions in your exhaust hose that goes to the outside of your home, lint build-up over the years effects the air flow, also go outside and check your dryer vent, that can clog up too.

Jake

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