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  #1  
Old December 9th, 2008, 12:39 PM
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Default [FIXED] Whirlpool Dryer/Start Problem

Hi,

My Whirlpool Dryer Model #LGC7848DQ0 will not start when pressing the start button. This happened all of a sudden, no ticking noise -- just does not run. From the other posts it may be a timer or the relay switch, I think.

Is my analysis correct? This dryer is out of the area so we can not check in readily. We are going to have to buy the parts are hope we have the right ones.

Thank you very much. This forum is great.
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  #2  
Old December 9th, 2008, 04:54 PM
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Hi,

I always first check the power for 120 volts for gas or 240 volts for electric. I use a volt meter, you'd be surprised how many service calls I went out to for a dead dryer to find out that it was a breaker/voltage problem to the dryer that was the cause.

Unplug the dryer and plug in a lamp or hair dryer in the electrical outlet where your dryer plugs into to test for 120 volts if you have a gas dryer.

If the voltage is ok, then I always check the thermal fuse in the dryer.


Pull your dryer away from the wall, then Unplug it, then take off the back access panel and you can ohm it for continuity or take the wires off and jump it, use alligator clips OR electrical tape to tape them together, just for testing, DON'T RUN IT THAT WAY FOR A CYCLE IF IT WORKS!

Here is a photo of the back of your dryer without the back access panel on:

#5 is your white thermal fuse.

Here's the thermal fuse for your model in case you need to order it:
Manufacturer's Number: 3392519
3392519

The main reason the thermal fuse blows is air flow restrictions in your exhaust hose that goes to the outside of your home, lint build-up over the years effects the air flow, also go outside and check your dryer vent, that can clog up too.

Jake
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Old September 26th, 2009, 03:51 PM
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I have a LGR7646D that looks very similiar. Dead out. Checked thermal fuse and appears good. What is your typical step 2,3,etc

Thanks
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Old September 26th, 2009, 08:34 PM
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Hi Bill,

You you ohmed the thermal fuse for continuity and your meter read nothing? Or tape the thermal fuse wires together with electrical tape and nothing?

Jake
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Old September 27th, 2009, 08:37 AM
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I removed and ran current through it (a 4watt nightlight). I was at my daughters house and meter was not available.
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Old September 27th, 2009, 11:23 AM
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Yea, I don't think thats going to give you an accurate reading, you have to use a volt/ohm meter to ohm it for continuity.

A volt/ohm meter is a must for appliance repair:
Digital Multimeter With Shock Resistant Cover
964740

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Old September 27th, 2009, 02:11 PM
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I used the meter and the thermal switch is good. Now what?
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Old September 27th, 2009, 04:49 PM
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Next I would ohm the door switch for continuity with the dryer unplugged.

You would need to ohm terminal#1 and terminal#2 with the button pushed-in. If you don't show continuity on the ohm meter, then your door switch is bad.

Here is a new one, in case you need to order it:
Standard dryer door/washer lid switch kit

To get to the door switch, you have to pop the top as explained here:
http://www.applianceaid.com/wpdryer_how-to.html
Its mounted inside your top front panel assembly.

Jake
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Old September 29th, 2009, 08:20 PM
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Door switch is broken.

Thanks, Again!

Bill
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Old September 29th, 2009, 10:26 PM
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Excellent Bill, good job finding it was the door switch.

Jake
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