Electric dryer is approximately 15+ years old. The timer part #3396047 was replaced appximately 3+ years ago in October 2005 for the SAME exact problem. Am hoping to avoid the expensive repair process unlike last time.

I have done the following to test the timer:
- Disconnected the power plug
- Turned the timer dial to Heavy, Timed Dry, 50 min
- Removed RED power wire, clipped my ohm tester to the timer lead for this wire
- Tested BLACK power wire, got zero reading (my ohm meter starts off at 1, then decreases to zero (which I guess implies continuity))
- Tested BLUE wire Thermostat Heater, got zero reading
- Tested VIOLET wire (also part of thermostat heater), got 9.42 with ohm tester set at 20k

In the wiring diagram for the thermostat heater it is 10ohm max, 10kohm min.

Am I correctly interpreting that the timer may be fine, and that there might be another problem elsewhere?

Thanks.

Hi,

Yes, your timer is fine.

For the heating problem, you would need to pull your dryer out from the wall, then take off your back access panel and ohm the thermal cut-off#1 and the heater assembly#4 for continuity



Pic courtesy of www.applianceaid.com

Make sure your dryer is unplugged first before testing! AND take the wires off both parts first before doing the ohm test for continuity.

Radio Shack sells cheap volt/ohm meters if you don't have one.

Here's the thermal cut-off for your model in case you need to order it:
Manufacturer's Number: 279769



Here's the heating element for your model in case you need to order it:
Manufacturer's Part#4391960


Jake

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Jake -

Thanks! I did following:

- Disconnected both sets of wires at EXACTLY locations #1 and #4
- I tested for continuity, got nothing when placing one of my testing wires (black) at #1, and then placing the other testing wire (red) at #4.
- I alternated between the connections, got nothing

I did not test #3 which appears to be the thermal cutoff. What do you recommend for next steps?

I'm guessing in the least, I need a new drying element.

#3 is the high-limit thermostat.

#1 is your thermal cut-off.

I think your ohm testing the thermostats wrong, you have to take 1 wire off then put your meter probes on the 2 terminals of that separate thermostat alone, not one on one and the other on the other.

So to ohm test your thermal cut-off#1 you take one wire off of it, then put your meter probes on both thermals of your thermal cut-off only! If you meter doesn't move then its bad.

Jake

__________________
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

If you need more repair advice help on your appliance, click Here

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Jake -

Thanks so much for your help. Turns out #4 or the heating element had no continuity. Took out the screw in the lower back of it, pulled it out, and replaced it with new one from local store. All is well, working just fine!

Excellent, good job fixing it.

Jake

__________________
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

If you need more repair advice help on your appliance, click Here

Look-Up & Order Parts

Shop Home Appliances