Whirlpool conquest side by side l Freezer / fridge not cooling

**TJFOX** · August 12th, 2012, 04:50 PM

Brand: Whirlpool

Age: 1-5 years

Our humane society has a whirlpool fridge in trouble, this fridge came from someone who donated it last year for our kitchen. This whirlpool fridge has a date of manuf. of 11/07, we are the current owners and have had the fridge for 1 year. It is a very nice fridge with side by side doors. This morning there was a small stream of water coming from under the freezer side. Opened the freezer and saw the ice trays were thawing. I have since been reading the posts on here and have checked out some of the help points. I took the relay switch off but there was no rattle inside so I assume it is still good. When you plug the fridge back in, the fan next to the condenser works and the fan in the freezer compartment sounds like it is working too. After i unplugged the unit the very first time I got the lower back panel off and felt the condenser and it was very hot. After letting the fridge rest for a couple of hours, I plugged it back in to restart the fridge and the condenser kicks in after a minute or two seeming to start up and almost right away you would hear a click and it would shut off. Not sure what to do at this point. I have someone local that owns an appliance business repair shop who I can call but we would rather save the money if at all possible whereby we could do the trouble shooting ourselves . One more note, we do not use the ice maker or the water dispenser on this unit. They are not hooked up. Any thoughts?

***Jake*** · August 12th, 2012, 07:41 PM

Hi,

I took the relay switch off but there was no rattle inside so I assume it is still good.

Never assume.

Even if it doesn't rattle, it can still be bad. You will need a ohm meter to test it for continuity with the refrigerator unplugged.

Does yours look like this:
Relay and Overload Kit W10189190 Order now for same day shipping. 365 day return policy. RepairClinic.com

Or this:

Manufacturer part number 2262185 is RepairClinic item number 1026721
2262185

**TJFOX** · August 12th, 2012, 08:58 PM

Thanks for the advice on the no rattle. This is probably a dumb question, but can I take the relay switch off the condenser and take it to someone that has a ohm meter to test?

***Jake*** · August 12th, 2012, 11:55 PM

Yup, you bet you can.

Jake

**TJFOX** · August 13th, 2012, 09:21 AM

Originally Posted by Jake

Yup, you bet you can.

Jake

Thanks. I took the relay switch to someone that had an ohm meter, and just got back.
The side of the relay switch that plugs into the condenser has three plug holes in the shape of a triangle. He attached the ohm meter to the top two holes and it gave a signal, and I assume the bottom hole was a ground. He got no signal from the bottom hole The backside of the relay switch has two metal prongs coming out where the wires coming from the fridge plug into. These two prongs had no signal from the ohm meter. Not sure if that is supposed to have a signal or not. Your thoughts?

***Jake*** · August 13th, 2012, 10:47 AM

He attached the ohm meter to the top two holes and it gave a signal

That means its good.

The backside of the relay switch has two metal prongs coming out where the wires coming from the fridge plug into. These two prongs had no signal from the ohm meter.

I need to see which relay you have from the photos I posted above.

Jake

**TJFOX** · August 13th, 2012, 11:55 AM

Originally Posted by Jake

That means its good.

I need to see which relay you have from the photos I posted above.

Jake

My relay switch does not really look like either of the pictures above. There is a bar code and numbers on the side of my relay switch. Not sure if this will help you but here are the numbers: RU, TSD-115/127V-60Hz-Y, above the bar code: 2319793, below the bar code: RoHS 513604007 24/SEP/07 1106770NUX

So if it is not the relay switch, any other thoughts on the problem....do you think the condenser is shot?

**TJFOX** · August 13th, 2012, 11:59 AM

Originally Posted by TJFOX

My relay switch does not really look like either of the pictures above. There is a bar code and numbers on the side of my relay switch. Not sure if this will help you but here are the numbers: RU, TSD-115/127V-60Hz-Y, above the bar code: 2319793, below the bar code: RoHS 513604007 24/SEP/07 1106770NUX

So if it is not the relay switch, any other thoughts on the problem....do you think the condenser is shot?

Forgot the name on the bar code sticker.....EECON JLLEk, this was to the left above the "RU" trademark.

***Jake*** · August 13th, 2012, 12:50 PM

Ok, The manufacturer has replaced part number 2319793 with this item, part number W10189190.

You have this one, its the same as I posted above. It may look different then your original one.

So yes if you got a signal from the top 2 holes, then its good.

So that just leaves the compressor as the culprit.

Having a new compressor installed would cost about $400-$450.

Jake

**TJFOX** · August 13th, 2012, 01:14 PM

Originally Posted by Jake

Ok, The manufacturer has replaced part number 2319793 with this item, part number W10189190.

You have this one, its the same as I posted above. It may look different then your original one.

So yes if you got a signal from the top 2 holes, then its good.

So that just leaves the compressor as the culprit.

Having a new compressor installed would cost about $400-$450.

Jake

That is a bummer. Is that unusual to have a compressor go on a 2007 model? Our charity cannot afford that. Does anyone sell used compressors for our fridge model?

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