Thread: Error codes on built-in double oven model # RBD306PDQ14

There has been a few problems with these in the last 5 yrs. concerning this same issue you are having. You would need the repair kit to fix it, its very costly and you shouldn't have to pay for it.

Contact Whirlpool, they have been very good about taking care of this problem for other customers.

Jake

Thanks Jake. I've contacted Whirlpool as you suggested, but somehow I don't think I'll be holding my breath ...

If they refuse to do anything, Unfortunately, your looking at about $400 in parts.

Jake

Thanks Jake. I just heard back from Whirlpool customer support. The tone of the email was "we're oh so sorry, but hard luck...", so I guess I need to decide if it's worth the $400 to repair it, or is that money better spent toward a new (non-Whirlpool) oven.

In your experience, have folks who went the repair route had subsequent, similar failures? I'd hate to spend $400 on the parts only to have to do it again next year...

Thanks again for your input.

Steve.

I had an older wall oven where codes were intermittently saying F3,F2... (bad sensor, high high temp)
Replaced temp sensor, all wiring, and still had same problem.
Told by service to simply replace EOC controller unit.
Rather than hand away $$$, I inspected EOC board more closely and found a bad solder joint on the two-pin board connector for the temp sensor. Re-soldered and all F codes were history !! Amazing, considering the joint at first glance seemed very normal looking !

The high heat and dissimilar metals in the joint lead to eventual corrosion and poor contact. Seeing as RTD temp sensor is resistance-based in most ovens, this intermittent high resistance (and very high perceived temp) must ABSOLUTELY be eliminated as a cause before wasting $$$ on an EOC. Further, with a bad solder joint, repeating fiddling with the connector during troubleshooting, will make the situation gradually worsen, until fixed correctly.

Oh, and for those that care...
RTD sensors barely deteriorate as compared to Thermocouple-style sensors, due to their (RTD) lack of a deteriorating metallic junction. Oven RTD sensors, by their nature, should last very long under normal usage, and should not wear out. The wiring connections are what must be monitored, however.

Originally Posted by ColonelZ

I had an older wall oven where codes were intermittently saying F3,F2... (bad sensor, high high temp)
Replaced temp sensor, all wiring, and still had same problem.
Told by service to simply replace EOC controller unit.
Rather than hand away $$$, I inspected EOC board more closely and found a bad solder joint on the two-pin board connector for the temp sensor. Re-soldered and all F codes were history !! Amazing, considering the joint at first glance seemed very normal looking !

The high heat and dissimilar metals in the joint lead to eventual corrosion and poor contact. Seeing as RTD temp sensor is resistance-based in most ovens, this intermittent high resistance (and very high perceived temp) must ABSOLUTELY be eliminated as a cause before wasting $$$ on an EOC. Further, with a bad solder joint, repeating fiddling with the connector during troubleshooting, will make the situation gradually worsen, until fixed correctly.

Oh, and for those that care...
RTD sensors barely deteriorate as compared to Thermocouple-style sensors, due to their (RTD) lack of a deteriorating metallic junction. Oven RTD sensors, by their nature, should last very long under normal usage, and should not wear out. The wiring connections are what must be monitored, however.

Thats good to know, thanks for the information on what you found on yours.

Jake

Originally Posted by spthomas

Thanks Jake. I just heard back from Whirlpool customer support. The tone of the email was "we're oh so sorry, but hard luck...", so I guess I need to decide if it's worth the $400 to repair it, or is that money better spent toward a new (non-Whirlpool) oven.

In your experience, have folks who went the repair route had subsequent, similar failures? I'd hate to spend $400 on the parts only to have to do it again next year...

Thanks again for your input.

Steve.

You may want to check the solder joints like ColonelZ mentioned.

If the solder joints look good, then you have a tough choice.

The customers I replaced these parts on, didn't have any further problems that I know of.

But I agree, its alot of money to put into it.
It would seem better to just invest that money into another brand, then buy the extended warranty on it for at least 5 yrs.

Jake

These would be the parts you would need:

Control panel assy. w/membrane switch (black model)
Electronic clock control

Switch, membrane (latch, sister board)

Unfortunately, All of the parts listed are on back-order at this time as well.

Jake

Thanks for the advice Jake and Colonel Z. I managed to find the problem, one of the pins on the temp sensor connector (behind the oven cavity) was sticking out of the housing and not making contact with the mating pin. Strange, since I had checked both temp sensor resistances at the control board end and both checked out fine. I did end up resoldering every joint on the control board just for kicks.

Right now the oven is doing a two-hour, 475 deg, burn-in to see if I've really fixed the problem :-)

Thanks again for the advice and for giving me the inspiration to get to the bottom of the problem before unecessarily spending $400+ on parts...

Steve.