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March 4th, 2007, 03:36 PM
#1
double oven blows thermal fuse
I have a new whirlpool double oven approx. a year old:
Whirlpool double wall oven electric 30", self-cleaning
Model: RBD305PDS15
Twice in the last 2 months the thermastatic fuse has blown causing the unit to totally stop working. fortunatley, I have an extended service contract BUT...
The Service Tech stated that this is not an uncommon problem, that it happens especially with the self clean cycle. He replaced the fuse and checked to make sure the elements worked and the fan was blowing. He said that I shouldn't leave the door open too long since that would overheat the front portion and blow that fuse. I thought that this made sense but from a design point of view, strange.
Well... I finally got to use the self-cleaning cycle for the first time and after 30 minutes into the cycle, the whole unit went blank... I suspect the fuse has blown again.
My question is thus... should I/we be looking further ie weak fan or am i going to blow the fuse once a week ... OR is there a service bulletin from whirlpool which corrects this design defect... shouldn't a thermal swith be desined to keep sensitive areas ( circuit boards) from over heating, that is keep the fan moter running?
Thank you in advance
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March 5th, 2007, 08:27 AM
#2
Yes, this has been an issue that Whirlpool has had with these units for some time now, but I'm surprised yours is only a yr. old and doing this, they have upgraded the control boards/control panels on the newer models.
Keep in contact with Whirlpool to make sure they fix this issue.
Here is a new control panel for your model:


and the control board:


Jake
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present
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March 5th, 2007, 01:47 PM
#3
Is thermastatic fuse located on the back of the unit? My Whirlpool slide-on oven did the same thing where only the oven quit working after running the "self-clean" cycle. The original thermastic fuse was rated at 130 degrees and we replaced it with a 160 degrees. It's been trouble-free ever since.
The problem is that it gets very hot behind the stove and with no air flow, the heat builds up. Another option would be to get some air flow behind the stove somehow.
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March 6th, 2007, 12:19 PM
#4
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present
Look-Up & Order Parts
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August 13th, 2007, 02:35 PM
#5
I just walked in from the garage and found that my Whirlpool built in Double oven had stopped dead in the Clean cycle. It is about nine years old and only the second time we have attempted to clean it with the self cleaning option. The Breaker was not tripped, but I turned it off for a while and then back on. No power, no panel, no clock, no time, no nothing.
I cannot get the door open to get the model number. It sounds as if I have the same problem as Jake. Can you reccomend a reliable appliance repairman in the Plano/Dallas Texas area? Or is this something I can do my self if I can ever get the oven door opened?
Also, the picture link showing the back of the oven where the fuse is doesn't work.
Last edited by Orin; August 13th, 2007 at 02:40 PM.
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August 13th, 2007, 03:09 PM
#6
Also, the oven has since cooled, but I cannot get the door opened. No power to it, no open lock?
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August 13th, 2007, 10:53 PM
#7
You would need to pull the oven out from the wall a little to get to the control panel screws on the side, but this can be tricky to do, and with the door looked I don't think you can get to the frame screws.
I would schedule a service call with Whirlpool to have a tech. come out.
Jake
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present
Look-Up & Order Parts
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August 14th, 2007, 08:51 AM
#8
Thanks' Jake. The oven has definitely cooled down, the lock is still engaged. It's a built-in, and figuring out how to pull it out is beyond me now.
I will break down and call for a service call. It's not like surgery, when it comes to appliances, you should call an expert, eh, Jake?
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August 14th, 2007, 03:40 PM
#9
Sounds good, let us know the outcome.
Jake
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present
Look-Up & Order Parts
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September 25th, 2007, 08:24 AM
#10

Originally Posted by
Jake
You would need to pull the oven out from the wall a little to get to the control panel screws on the side, but this can be tricky to do, and with the door looked I don't think you can get to the frame screws.
I would
schedule a service call with Whirlpool to have a tech. come out.
Jake
How do you get to the fuse to replace it? Do you have a diagram (other than the one noted above with the exploded view) that shows how to get to it? Thanks!
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