I have a Whirlpool Quiet Partner II model # DU1145XTPQ1 Serial #FR4404377.
It's about 1 and a half years old. It has been working well except that every once in a while another family member will not close the door tightly enough so the washer doesn't start when the button is pushed. All I have done is to push it closed firmly.

About a week or two ago I noticed that there was about half an inch of water that hadn't drained out, but that problem went away during the next cycle.

A couple of days ago, I noticed that another family member had added detergent and thought they had turned the washer on, but nothing had happened. I closed the door more tightly and hit the start button but that didn't help. Then I fiddled with the control buttons (sorry, I don't remember the order) thinking something was hung up. That didn't work.

What I ended up with was a "lock" light that I can't turn off. I searched this sight and based on some similar problems folks had written in about, I tried turning the circuit breaker off and on. I also tried to press in the "heated dry" button for 5 seconds, but that didn't make any difference. I tried pushing in the other buttons to see if they were electrically connected. Each button I pushed would cause the "lock" light to flash a few times and then return to a study green glow.

I searched the bottom of the interior comparment and discovered two pieces of glass about an inch square (probably the remains of a broken glass) and a piece of plastic wrap about two by three inches when unwadded.

Thats where things stand now. Can anyone give me some advice.

P.s. I presently searching for my warranty.
- can someone direct me to a picture of the parts exploded?

This will be your BREAKDOWN PAGES...
Sort of sounds like you may have stuck keys on the keypad...

Pegi,

Thanks for the parts breakdown and the other tips. I just found my purchase receipt and I've had the dishwasher 2 years and 34 days.

I'll work with your tips and get back to you one way or the other.

Larry

Well, I finally got it out of lock mode by
holding down one of the buttons for exactly 5 seconds.

This led me back to the original problem which is that the
dishwasher will not start. I then discovered that two of the 10
buttons on the front: the "Normal" mode selection button
and the "Start" button are unresponsive.

The diagnostic mode is triggered by pressing
dry, normal, dry, normal (or something to that effect.)
so with the normal button not working, I wasn't able
to put it into diags. And with the start button not
working, well, the dishwasher won't turn on

I took the front panel off and peeled the front laminate layer
off so I could access the buttons
(the blister style kind like on a cell phone or old calculator keyboard)

I then identified the conductive traces leading out of the
"blister sheet" into a ribbon cable that connects to the "brain"
of the dishwasher, and tested for continuity when the "buttons"
were pressed by holding the probes on a multimeter to the respective
traces on the cable.

No luck. As the offending "buttons" were pressed, the meter spiked, indicating (I think) continuity.

I also checked the thermal fuse for continuity. It was good as well.

At this point, It would seem to me that the next step to take would be
to start checking the resitances of various components as per the
tech sheet, but that's a technique that I've never had much luck with
(In cars and other appliances that is), and I was hoping that you
guys might have some clues or other low hanging fruit to pull at first.

The tech sheet is very helpful and I think I could probably fix this
thing if I could just get it into diagnostic mode.

I can post pics if that would help.
Thanks,
Larry.

Its sounds like your control panel keypad assembly or control board is bad.

You can order both and return the one you don't need for a full refund.

Here's the control panel for your model:
Part#3385738



Here's the control board:
Part#8564546



Jake

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We ordered the two parts in question last Sunday night and they arrived Tuesday morning. As it turned out, the faulty part was the control box. We'll send the other one back. Thank you all for the sage advice and diagrams.

Larry

Good job fixing it Larry, glad its back to normal again.

Jake

__________________
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

If you need more repair advice help on your appliance, click Here

Look-Up & Order Parts

Shop Home Appliances