Whirlpool Conquest. Model No. GS6SHAXKS02. Serial No. SM1027460.

Icemaker stopped making ice. No water or cubes in the tray. Tines in a horizontal position pointing at me. Ran diagnostic to see what kind of LED flashes I would get. Got none.

Disconnected refrig power for 5 minutes. Plugged in again. Opened freezer door and LED came on for approx 5 seconds. Ran diagnostic again - again no lights.

Turned off refrig power again. Removed icemaker, disconnected refrig-to-icemaker connector, checked, and reconnected. Reconnected refrig power. Icemaker ran 2 harvest cycles and stopped. Ice cubes now in tray. Tines up at 2 o'clock position, pointing over my head as I look in a the icemaker.

Need suggestion for next step. Manual no longer helpful.

Thanx much!

The diagnostics on the in door ice makers are frankly not very good. If you have been able to get a harvest cycle, I would suspect your ice maker module is the culprit. If you remove the three screws that hold the receiver board in place (the one with the LED on the right) you can place a jumper wire between the black and the black/white wires (be carefull and do this with the power off) which will bypass the control boards. If the ice maker stays working, then the control board need replacing.

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TechnicianBrian



AllTechAppliance.com

Brian

I guess I need help on how to jumper. I have removed the receiver board from the connector but don't know how to jumper the black to the black/white wires. In thought of pushing a jumper wire into the connector with each of the others, but there didn't seem to be enough room. Tell me also what kind of wire to use.

Also, the link you sent showing the control module doesn't quite match what I have here. With the green side up and the pins to the right, mine has a part number in the lower left corner, upside down:

"6100437
REV: REL"

Thanx again

Gary

I use a short piece of 22 gage wire to jumper between the two, but a bent paper clip will also work, just plug it into where the connector pins would go. As for the part numbers on the board, Whirlpool has had three revisions of this board so all the lettering may not be the same. Also, I wasn't clear on the first post, the module is on the end of the ice maker (the part with the while gear on it) and the part you have removed is the sensor receiver board.

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TechnicianBrian



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I wrote," Also, the link you sent showing the control module doesn't quite match what I have here." and then you wrote, "Also, I wasn't clear on the first post, the module is on the end of the ice maker (the part with the while gear on it) and the part you have removed is the sensor receiver board." -- Yes, I meant the receiver board.

I understand about the jumper and have put a piece of copper wire into the spots where the pins would go. However, I can't see if the jumper wire is contacting the copper of the black and black/white wires within the connector.

I'll check progress in a couple of hours and let you know.

After two hours, no life in the ice maker.

Jumper removed; receiver board reinstalled. Still no life in the ice maker.

Sorry for the slow reply, remodeling a bathroom in my spare time. If you jumpered the wires and eliminated the receiver board, remove the ice maker (1/4 screw on the right holds on the wire harness cover) and unplug it from the harness. With the jumper still in place, you should read 110vac between the black and the white wire. If you have that, we are back to a failed module. Remove the white end cap of the IM and you will be looking at the module itself (three screws hold it on). The gear on the ends will warp and not make good electrical contact so the unit will stop working or work intermittently. Check it out and I will be back to work in the morning so I will be checking my email more often.

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TechnicianBrian



AllTechAppliance.com

Don't have a meter. I'll check the contacts.
(This was sent after my earlier email today.)

You wrote, "The gear on the ends will warp and not make good electrical contact so the unit will stop working or work intermittently." I took out the three screws and separated the two parts. The large wheel looks OK; the back side, where the circuits are, looks OK too, but I'm not sure where exactly I would see warping. I didn't see anything odd.

Some other clues:
1. After removing and reinstalling the ice maker, repowering the refrig, and opening the freezer door, the LED flashes three times, is followed by a short pause, and flashes three times again. I've seen this the last two times.
2. Today, I found the ice maker tray was overfilled. It had not overfilled to the point of dripping icicles, but the top of the tray was one mass of ice, that is, the tops of the individual cubes were all connected to each other. Back on Jan 10, I found there was no ice in the tray at all.

Thanx again for the help...

All your details are pointing to the IM module failing and the optics seem to be good given your observations. The only other checks you can make require a multi-meter to verify voltage to the IM itself and continuity through the thermostat behind the module. Any basic meter can check that so you can go further, or replace the module because I think that is where you are going to find your fix.

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TechnicianBrian



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