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#1
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I have a whirlpool GS475LEMS. The stove-top works fine. The issue is with the oven.
I can turn it on and pre-heat it to any temperature. After the pre-heat, 9 out of 10 times, the burner will not go back on at all. I do not smell gas, and I do not hear it trying to ignite. The temperature reading on the control panel remains constant. I can "cancel" and re-set the temp, and it will pre-heat again to the desired temp, then (usually) never come on again. The broiler seems to work fine. I was thinking about replacing the thermostat/oven sensor, http://www.repairclinic.com/SmartSea...4200&PPStack=1 Does that sound like the right move? I don't think is a problem with the igniter or the gas supply, because I can always turn it on again, its just that it won't stay on at the temp I set it to. Thanks in advance. |
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#2
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Hi,
Please check your model# again, there should be one more number after the S This model shows 2 different types of oven igniter's. Also your model has the DSI board, read this troubleshooting flow chart: www.applianceblog.com/manuals/DSI_manual.pdf Jake
__________________
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988 Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990 Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001 Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005 Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present If you need more repair advice help on your appliance, click Here Look-Up & Order Parts Shop Home Appliances |
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#3
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Hi, thanks for the quick response, Jake.
Its a GS475LEMS 0 I missed that extra number since its so far to the right. I looked at the PDF, and just to make sure I have the terminology right, "Does the bake burner establish a flame and then turn off" means, does the oven pre-heat then the burner turns off? if thats the case, I would answer yes The second question, "Does the spark continue after a flame is present" ... does this mean does it stops clicking as if to ignite? The answer then is yes, it lights after one click, and stays lit until pre-heating is complete If all that is the case, that means I have to replace the gas distribution valve. Does that sound right? Do you know what part # that is? Thanks, Erik |
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#4
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Thanks Erik,
Quote:
So since its no, then you need a volt meter to check: Is 120 VAC present from J1-4 to J1-6? Jake
__________________
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988 Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990 Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001 Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005 Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present If you need more repair advice help on your appliance, click Here Look-Up & Order Parts Shop Home Appliances |
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#5
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Thanks Jake. Unfortunately this will have to wait until tomorrow evening as my multimeter is at work. I think I have a much better understanding of this DSI system now, though....it sounds like I will either be replacing the gas distribution valve, the DSI module, or the igniter. I will post the outcome.
Thanks, Erik |
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#6
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I'm thinking either DSI Board or igniter assembly.
Here's the cheapest price I found for your DSI board for on model: Manufacturer's Number: 9758080 Here's the bake burner igniter kit for your model: Part#8190618 I found a thread similar to your issue here: Whirlpool Gas Stove - Intermitent Oven Issue and the bake burner igniter kit fixed it. Jake
__________________
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988 Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990 Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001 Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005 Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present If you need more repair advice help on your appliance, click Here Look-Up & Order Parts Shop Home Appliances |
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#7
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I started a bake cycle and saw that I had ~122 VAC present between J1-4 and J1-6 I then checked J1-4 and J1-7 and saw 3.1 VAC I then unplugged the range and checked the resistance between J1-1 and J1-2, my multimeter flashed 159 then 196 then 0 between J1-2 and J1-3, my multimeter flashed 102 then 190 then 0 seeing as these aren't as close to 216 is to 122 is to 120, I set out to disconnect the gas lines from the distribution valve at the base of the unit to measure the resistance there....then I cut my hand pretty badly trying to disconnect the gas line from the bake burner to the valve
so I thought I would take a break and post my progress... |
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#8
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Well, I must have had my multimeter on the wrong setting....all resistance at the DSI and valve are 216-217 spot on.
Checked the dc voltage during the bake cycle, which was 10 VDC. Worksheet says it should be between 8-18, and if its within speck replace the gas distribution valve. Do you think its really the bake burner and igniter, though? Thanks, Erik Last edited by cybermud; September 13th, 2008 at 02:15 PM.. |
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#9
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From your readings it sounds like your gas distribution valve is bad. Its just very rare that I see this valve go bad, but looks like yours is bad.
Here's the one for your model you can order: Manufacturer part number 9761959 is RepairClinic item number 1159151 9761959You can return it for a full refund within 30 days if you install it and it doesn't fix your range. Jake
__________________
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988 Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990 Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001 Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005 Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present If you need more repair advice help on your appliance, click Here Look-Up & Order Parts Shop Home Appliances |
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#10
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I replaced the gas distribution valve, and although better, its not quite right. For instance, with the oven set at 325 tonight, the oven burner would come on, then the broiler would occasionally come on. Also, it occasionally starts, preheats, and doesn't stay on as before, just not every time we try and use it.
I have a feeling there may be a DSI board in my future. |
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