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#1
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Hello Jake or any other pro that I fail to mention
Nice forum first and foremost. I hope you can help me out with my issue. I found by doing a search of the forum that the flashing light meant that my heating element had gone. I went to a local parts store to ask about the heating element and the tech told me to use a volt meter tester on the element to test it for continuity, I just dont have the slightest clue on hoe to use my voltmeter, he told me to set my meter to ohm's and touch one each of the elements plugs that are coming out the underside of the d/w. I just need to know how exactly to do this, does the d/w have to be plugged in, or what??? sorry if I Sound dumb because I feel dumb and after doing this the right way what am I looking for, when I do it now with unit unplugged the meter reads numbers in the 40.00 and quickly drops down to zero Last edited by chavezone; September 22nd, 2008 at 05:36 PM.. |
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#2
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Quote:
This link shows you how to use a ohm meter: http://www.applianceaid.com/electric...ting_tips.html A good heating element will read 30 ohms or less, make sure you take 1 wire off the heating element first before you ohm it out. Here's the heating element for your model: Manufacturer part#W10134009 is RepairClinic item#1381534 W10134009Jake
__________________
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988 Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990 Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001 Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005 Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present If you need more repair advice help on your appliance, click Here Look-Up & Order Parts Shop Home Appliances |
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#3
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Thanks for the super quick response, I went ahead and reattached one wire to the heating element and tried to ohm it and I did get a reading
this time, I got 13.4 ohms on the 200 setting on the meter, so it looks like my element is still good, do you have any idea what else it could be?Thanks again Last edited by chavezone; September 22nd, 2008 at 10:16 PM.. |
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#4
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Then its the control board thats bad.
Here's the control board for your model you can order: Manufacturer's Number: 8564546 The inner door liner screws for the console just unscrew then you have access to your control board, it mounts with plastic clips that you use a screwdriver to pinch the clips and the control board comes out. Here's the repair manual for your model, you can print it out, it explains everything on how to do it: https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/52521bdbd0ef763c85256cbc00520548/$FILE/8178022.pdf The new control board doesn't come with that white thermal fuse, simply unsnap it from your original control board and snap it in the new one. ![]() Jake
__________________
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988 Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990 Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001 Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005 Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present If you need more repair advice help on your appliance, click Here Look-Up & Order Parts Shop Home Appliances |
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#5
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Great
Is the reading that I got of 13.4 ohms good, you mentioned that they are usually 30 ohms or less |
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#6
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Yes, 13.4 ohms means its good.
Jake
__________________
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988 Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990 Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001 Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005 Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present If you need more repair advice help on your appliance, click Here Look-Up & Order Parts Shop Home Appliances |
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#7
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Jake Thanks for the help with my issues but sadly after replacing the board with the new control board it runs for about 20 mins then shut off, if I start it the timer reads 96 mins it runs until around 65 mins remaining, I'm not sure what time exactly it shut down. I looked at it with 65 mins left and a few mins later it was off and the clean light was again flashing 7 times. Any Ideas also on the website that you referred me to it says I can return parts, do you think I will be able to return the control board if my old one is still good?
Last edited by chavezone; September 26th, 2008 at 05:58 PM.. |
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#8
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Hmmm, thats very strange, the control board should have fixed it if the heating element is good like you tested.
You can return the control board here: http://www.appliancepartspros.com/cu...e/returns.aspx Jake
__________________
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988 Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990 Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001 Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005 Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present If you need more repair advice help on your appliance, click Here Look-Up & Order Parts Shop Home Appliances |
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#9
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can you tell me what the steos are after installing the board, heres what i did, after installing the board i plugged in the machine,then i did a factory reset by pressing the sequence of buttons,after that i ran it thru a cycle and thats when it started with the problem again,do you think i should get the haeting element and replace that before returning the control board
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#10
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Yes, it would be good to order the heating element before returning the control board.
Feel the heating element inside, do you feel pits or bumps on it? Jake
__________________
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988 Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990 Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001 Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005 Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present If you need more repair advice help on your appliance, click Here Look-Up & Order Parts Shop Home Appliances |
| The Following User Says Thank You to Jake For This Useful Post: | ||
chavezone (September 27th, 2008) | ||
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