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#1
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My gf has a Whirlpool model #ED2JHGXRT00 (serial #SS4242706) side by side. I've got 2 problems and think I know what's wrong on both. Perhaps you can confirm my hypothesis:
First, the Ice dispenser (outside) stoped dispensing ice. Upon close inspection of the ice "bucket", I noticed that some of the parts nearest to the exit of the ice on the auger are made of plastic. It appears that one of the plastic "fins" has cracked but is not completely broken off. I suppose the ice is getting trapped here. I imagine I'm going to need another auger assy and hope that one without plastic parts is available. Second, if the first problem wasn't bad enough, I could still get ice by reaching into the bucket itself and getting it. However, the unit has now stopped making ice altogether. I read the "troubleshooting" guide in the manual and have checked all possible easy fixes except one. The fridge is a little over 3 years and I know the filter has not been replaced. So, I'm pretty sure that it is clogged and is preventing water from the unit, thus no ice. In the manual, it lists cartridge T1RFWB2, part #4396710 for a retail of $39.99. Is this the most probable cause? If so, the above listed price is obviously through Whirpool and can I get it cheaper elsewhere? If this is not the problem, it should be because the manual says the filter should be changed every 6 months. Other probable causes? I pulled the unit out (fortunately it has casters) and saw where the water line runs in. I'm thinking the filter cartridge will be in the removable access panel at the bottom of the unit? Would greatly appreciate your input |
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#2
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Yes, if you live in a area were you have hard water, then every 6 months is recommended to change it.
Here's the cheapest price I found on the water filter for your model: Manufacturer's Number: 4396710 The filter is in the front bottom of your refrigerator, #29 here: ![]() Just push the button#39 then it should come out. Here's your ice bucket/auger assembly, which part is broken? ![]() Jake
__________________
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988 Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990 Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001 Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005 Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present If you need more repair advice help on your appliance, click Here Look-Up & Order Parts Shop Home Appliances |
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#3
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Jake,
Thanks for the reply and the info. Looks like the filter part will be a piece of cake. So far as the auger assy, the broken (or cracked) part is #28. One of the "fins" on the "impeller" is cracked. |
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#4
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Ok,
Here's the auger drum for your model you can order: Manufacturer's Number: 4388736 Do you know how to install it? Jake
__________________
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988 Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990 Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001 Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005 Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present If you need more repair advice help on your appliance, click Here Look-Up & Order Parts Shop Home Appliances |
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#5
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Jake,
Thanks for your help. You helped me once before with a washing machine shock absorber problem. That has been working great since I changed the shocks. I know you see so many posts it's hard to remember them all. Thanks for the parts info and glad to see that the part is relatively inexpensive since it is plastic. I've never attempted repair on the Whirpool gf has, but have replaced both parts (main auger) and complete units I have on my own (a GE). Looks like (by the parts breakdown) that I'll have to take the half moon clip #40 off the front of the front of the auger. 'Course, there will be some srews and such that will have to be removed to get to everything (if it's anything like the GE). I should be able to handle it. If not, I can re-post a "cry for help". Speaking of the GE that I have ... I have a question about it. Being all single like I am, the reason I'm having to replace the auger as much as I am (2 times now and a third needs to be replace) is because of rust. It would seem to me that because ice sits in the bucket for long periods of time and is in contact with the auger (which is only dull chrome plated steel), rust occurs and gets into the ice. Not very pleasant in a glass of drink. I think it should be made of stainless steel, but of course that would make it really expensive. Any ideas how I can make one last longer? I've had the fridge for 8 years now and replaced the entire unit (bucket, auger, and all ... before I knew better) and then the auger only). Thanks for all your help. |
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#6
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If you could find a food grade metal sealant that you could spray it or coat it with, that would make it last longer. I'm not even sure if one is available on the open market, probably in the restaurant supply business they may use one on the food machines, but I'm not sure if they would let the average person buy one from them without it being a business account.
You can check your local hardware store too and ask them. Jake
__________________
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988 Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990 Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001 Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005 Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present If you need more repair advice help on your appliance, click Here Look-Up & Order Parts Shop Home Appliances |
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#7
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Thanks again. I have only one other question regarding the Whirlpool that's not making ice. I'm just not certain that the filter is the cause of the ice maker not making ice. What makes me skeptical is that even though I haven't put the new filter in yet, I decided to see if water would come out of the tap on the front. It does, and it doesn't make sense that the tap would produce water (foul though it may be) yet the ice maker isn't producting ice. Surely the water supply is from the same source?
I tried unplugging the whole fridge to see if there were some kind of reset for the ice maker, but it still isn't making ice. Could something else be wrong? Regardless, I'm going to put the new filter in anyway because our water isn't really hard, but has an awful smell and causes mold/mildew if it sits for any period of time (shower). In the meantime, I will look into the "remedy" for the GE that I have. Thanks. |
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#8
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The water inlet valve uses the same water to the dispenser, but different solenoids, so the water could work fine to your dispenser, but not work at all to the ice maker.
I'd first pull your refrigerator out from the wall then take off your water tubing nut#11 where it goes up the back of your refrigerator to the top fill tube#2, then remove the fill tube and check for an ice clog in your fill tube. Here's the diagram for the ice maker and fill tube: ![]() If none, then you can either use a jumper wire to jump T & H on the ice maker module, and get a volt meter to check if your getting 120 volts at the electrical connector at the ice maker side of your water inlet valve solenoid. This link explains it: http://www.applianceaid.com/icemaker-modual.html Or you can use a test cheater cord to test the water inlet valve directly as described here: http://www.applianceaid.com/icemaker-valvetest.html Here's the water inlet valve#10 for your model: Manufacturer's Number: 4389177 Jake
__________________
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988 Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990 Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001 Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005 Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present If you need more repair advice help on your appliance, click Here Look-Up & Order Parts Shop Home Appliances |
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#9
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Jake,
Thanks again for your help. I think we've gotten to the bottom of this dilemma this time. As you instructed, I pulled the water line from the back of the freezer. Mine was a bit different than shown. I had a tube fitting (push to release) on the back of the unit. Inside the unit (unless I'm missing something), it appears that the water just runs down a "chute" into the icemaker. I first started diagnosing the ice maker module. I checked for 120V by the diagram attached. I got no voltage. The arm was in the "down" position and the freezer was still cold. I imagine I should have gotten voltage. To further test, I tried the jumper between T & H and to make sure my wires were long enough, cut the ends to be longer than 1/2". The motor never turned. I did, however, notice the small arc of electricity when I removed the jumper (on one side) so connected the meter across them and got 120V. I then went on the test the inlet valve as described by making a "cheater" cord. Rather than take the tubing off the bottom (for the ice maker), I left it connected and ran the other end (that connects to the top of the ice maker) into a bucket. When I plugged it up (momentarily), it produced water. I tested it a few times. Inlet valve is fine. I think, now, that I may know what happened. When the "fins" on the auger drum broke, this caused ice to get jammed and not drop out (or get crushed). This put undue "stress" on the motor of the ice maker and messed up the module? At any rate, I think it's the ice maker module I'm going to need, yes? I think I saw a link to one in one of the diagram pages, but don't remember. If you'll confirm my philosophy and post a link for getting another module (so long as it's not as much as a whole new unit), then I'll have my "parts" list. Thanks a lot |
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#10
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Yes, sounds like everything you did was correct in diagnosing it.
The new ice maker module should fix it. Here's the ice maker module kit for your model you can order: Manufacturer's Number: 8201515 Jake
__________________
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988 Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990 Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001 Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005 Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present If you need more repair advice help on your appliance, click Here Look-Up & Order Parts Shop Home Appliances |
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