[FIXED] GMC275PDT07 Double Oven Door Lock/Overheating - ApplianceBlog.com

Johnson · #1 September 26th, 2009, 04:22 PM

Hello everyone,

I have a Whirlpool Gold Accubake System. GMC275PDT07 Double Oven 2004 (Oven on bottom, Microwave oven on top - Wall unit). We started the pre-heat at 350* and the oven heated normally. We put some food in and set the Timer to 15 minutes. Eight minutes later into the 15 minute timer the oven door locks and the "Locked" message shows up on the display. Not fearing for our safety I left the food in there to finish cooking. But a few minutes later I smelt burning food. I've cooked this same thing many times before so I'm assuming the temperatures were increasing. I pressed the Cancel button many times followed by pushing EVERY button on the panel to get this thing to stop heating up and give me my food back. I flipped the breaker and the oven seemed to stop heating up but the fans were still going inside (I assume to cool the oven down). Since then I have recreated the problem multiple times (without food inside) and the same problem persists.

I held the Cancel button for 5 seconds and the first message to pop up on the display was "E5n :F2 Id 27" I think I pressed the up and down arrows, and two F# E# codes displayed one after another. I got a F3 E2, and a F2 E5. I have read MANY posts on this forum so my first plan of action was to test the Ohms on the Temperature Sensor Part Details - WHIRLPOOL SENSOR, part number: AP4321511. I got 1.098 k ohms at about room temperature which is what I read was correct. From reading other member posts I fear it's the control board Part Details - WHIRLPOOL Control Panel Assy W/Membrane Switch (Black Model), part number: AP3043900 .

Is this assumption correct? Should I be testing anything else? I appreciate any advice and help that yall can offer. Thank you for your time and I look forward to hearing back from yall.

Johnson

***Jake*** · #2 September 26th, 2009, 08:45 PM

Yes Johnson, the control panel assy W/Membrane should fix it.

Jake

Johnson · #3 September 28th, 2009, 05:14 AM

Great, thanks!

***Jake*** · #4 September 28th, 2009, 09:12 AM

Glad to help.

Let us know the outcome.

Jake

Johnson · #5 October 14th, 2009, 03:10 PM

I ordered two parts. The control pad with membrane and the control board (computer part) because other posts in this forum were split between which one of these parts is the culprit. I am able to return either part if they do not fix the issue.

The "control board (computer part)" arrived today and I replaced the old one. I was able to cook food and everything from the pre-heating to cooking the food worked out perfectly! However, I had not put the two metal side supports back in place because I have really horrible luck. So I figured if I put everything back on before I tested the oven, then it would not work. Well it did work like I said above, but when putting the two metal side supports back on I shifted the "control pad with membrane
' a little. I did have power going to the oven while doing this and suddenly I hear a buzzing noise. It was a hum and buzz mix, like a small electric motor. I gently pulled the "control pad w/ membrane" towards me so I could see into the upper cavity to see what was making the noise. I saw a black plastic connector with a blue and red wire going to and it was unplugged. I've searched everywhere and I cannot see where this plugs into.

When replacing the "control boards" I was positive once I unplugged something from the old one, I immediately plugged it into the new control board -- all of this was done with the power off(breaker). I turned the breaker off and began searching and when I opened the upper oven/microwave I noticed that it was hot inside. The inside walls of the upper oven/microwave were very hot. Is something grounded and making my upper oven/microwave heat up like this? The "control pad with membrane" is arriving tomorrow and now I have no clue if this first part actually fixed the problem and I made it worse, or if the new part is making this happen?

Sorry for the long post but I wanted to be clear in how things happened. Thank you for your time and response.

Johnson

***Jake*** · #6 October 14th, 2009, 07:40 PM

Yes, if you ordered those 2 parts through our site you have 30 days to return them.

Yes, you should always turn the breaker off to the range/oven before disassembly and reassembly.

Here's the tech. data sheet/wiring diagram for your model:
http://www.servicematters.com/docs/w...%208302010.pdf
I see a blue wire to your door switch/latch motor assembly and a red wire to your control board.

I'm not sure what happened, you can install the membrane and see if everything works again, if not, then you probably have more of a complicated issue that has to be addressed by a tech. coming to your house, as on a forum its impossible for me to see whats going on.

Jake

Johnson · #7 October 15th, 2009, 05:28 AM

Okay well time for me to slap my forehead! Turns out when I had bumped the assembly two or more connectors to the circuit board had come loose. So I just plugged those back in and I'm back into fixed mode! Thanks again for your help Jake, I hope you realize how good you are.

Sincerely,
Johnson

***Jake*** · #8 October 15th, 2009, 08:55 AM

Thanks Johnson.

Glad its all working good again.

Jake

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