Thread: [FIXED] Whirlpool Gold error code d3

Okay. I really should retitle this post. Found this on the tech sheet:

NOTE 3. On numeric time display models,
display the following software information after
the initial display test:
■ Interval 18 – Dishwasher control platform
number (“d3” Raptor/Tall Tub, “d2” Cheetah/
Briva, “d1” Rush/Tall Tub, “d0” New Gen).


The "d3" is just identifying the Raptor/Tall Tub.

Still have the fast flashing Power Scour light and Normal lights (once a key is pushed) after the test. No workie workie. :-(

Its your control panel keypad assembly thats bad, here's the one for your model you can order:
Manufacturer's Number: W10021020

Here's the repair manual to your model:
https://secured.whirlpool.com/Servic...LE/8178022.pdf

Look for:

ACCESSING COMPONENTS IN THE DOOR
Removing the Console Panel on page 18

Jake

Jake,

I appreciate the quick response.

I suspect the Electronic Control (W10084141). The part you suggest (W10021020) appears to be the keypad. Two totally different things, correct? Or is the part you suggest the whole unit that includes the Electronic Control circuit board as well? Also, why the keypad? And why would it fail at the same time that the motor goes out?

BTW - the link for the manual you mentioned is for the Point Voyager GU1200/GU1500 model. I have the Whirlpool Gold GU2700XTSQ0.

I do appreciate your help. I just don't want to put hundreds and hundreds of dollars into parts I can't return...

Do you know where I can find the OWI sensor to run the following test, to confirm the keypad failure?:

From the tech sheet:

PROBLEM: WON’T RUN AND LED ABOVE KEY(S) IS
FLASHING RAPIDLY

Short circuit(s) in keypad or in
control’s input lines that read
the keys.
Don’t replace both: See first section
of “Checking Keypad Operation” for
test to determine whether shorts are
in the keypad or the control.

also:

CHECKING KEYPAD OPERATION

A rapidly blinking LED over one of the keys of the keypad (or
sometimes a “dead” keypad/console) indicates one or more
key switch lines are stuck or shorted on either the control or
the keypad. To determine which one, do the following test:
1. Unplug dishwasher or disconnect power.
2. Open console and disconnect the keypad ribbon connection from the
control (at P1). Put console back together.
3. Plug in dishwasher or reconnect power.
4. With door latched, disconnect and reconnect thermistor or OWI sensor
two times in less than 6 seconds.
5. Wait 10 seconds, then monitor the control’s response to the thermistor:
➔If the control is OK (no longer sees shorts with the keypad
unplugged), it will respond by running service diagnostics. Listen for
it to begin filling after it concludes the 5–10 second display test at
the beginning of the service diagnostics cycle. Check and/or replace
the keypad if the control responds OK.
➔If the control is not OK (still sees shorts with the keypad unplugged),
then it will NOT respond to the thermistor at all and will remain off
after 10 seconds go by. Make sure the keypad is unplugged for this
test. Confirm that all other connections are made, the console and
door are reassembled, power is back on, and the door is latched;
then repeat steps 1-5 above. If still no response, replace the control.
General Keypad Inspection:
Unplug dishwasher or disconnect power.
■ Check keypad ribbon tail for broken/shorted/corroded/creased traces.
■ Check for loose connection to control.
■ Check for evidence of contaminants or corrosion around the perimeter
of the keypad, on the keypad ribbon tail and/or on the keypad connector at
the control.
■ Perform keypad function check.
■ For a final check (if possible), try replacing control/keypad with a known
good control/keypad to identify where problem(s) persist.
To test the model ID diodes in the keypad:
Check each key and confirm corresponding LED turns on and that the
proper delay selections for that model are available. If ID diodes for this
keypad are opened or shorted, key and LED mapping and features like
delay may be altered.
To test an LED function:
Confirm that the LED turns on during the “Display Test” at the beginning
of the Service Diagnostics Cycle (see “Service Diagnostics Cycle Time
Chart”, NOTE 2).
Checking keyswitch contacts:
■ Unplug dishwasher or disconnect power.
■ Remove connector P1 from the control
board.
■ Using the table at right, measure the
resistance across the switch when the key
is pressed.
NOTE: The meter must be connected with
the proper polarity.
The resistance reading should go from
infinity (open circuit) with the key open
down to a readable ohm level with the
key pressed. The level may be different
depending on your meter, since there is
a diode in the circuit.
If available, you could use the “Diode
Test” function of a digital meter, which
will give a voltage to turn on the diode in
the circuit.
➔If any switches fail this test, replace
the console panel/keypad assembly.
➔If all switches test OK, replace the
machine control board.

Trust me I've seen this happen lots and lots of times, and I've always replaced the control panel keypad assembly and its ALWAYS fixed it.

We have a special program here, all parts you order from our links we post are returnable within 365 days for a FULL refund if they don't fix the problem.

Jake

Okay. I'll trust you. I placed an order with your company for the panel. Hope the white/right one comes...

Ok, sounds good.

Keep us posted.

Jake

Part worked as advertised. Thanks for the help.

Excellent Pete, good job.

Jake