Over time, the water hoses that came with your new washing machine may leak or burst. It’s a good preventive maintenance practice to check these hoses from time to time for any sign of wear or weakness. Often there’s a small blister in the rubber of the hose, which could rupture. Most manufacturers recommend replacing the hoses every 5 years.
Note… If the hose ruptures, large quantities of water could gush from the hose. If it’s the hot water hose that ruptures, the gushing hot water may scald anyone nearby.
For more peace of mind, one alternative is to use high quality stainless steel fill hoses. In addition, we carry the black rubber hoses supplied by the manufacturer– go to our Shop For Parts section and enter your model number to locate the ones for your unit. We also offer universal washing machine hoses.
Because your washing machine is so heavy, when it’s not level, it can vibrate strongly during the spin cycle. If your washing machine is not perfectly level–with all four legs touching the floor–it can bang and rock back and forth, and even begin to “walk” across the room. This isn’t good for the machine and may damage anything near the machine.
Your washing machine has adjustable, front leveling legs with a lock nut. You adjust the leg to the proper height, then tighten the lock nut up against the body of the machine to keep the leg from rotating.
Some machines have adjustable leveling legs in the rear also, and you can adjust them in the same way. Keep the machine as close to the floor as possible–the lower it is, the less likely it is to vibrate.
Most machines, however, have “self-adjusting” rear legs. You set these legs by tilting the entire machine forward onto its front legs (with the rear legs 3 to 4 inches off the floor) and then setting the machine back down. The legs should adjust automatically. If they don’t, you may need to tilt the machine forward and rap on the rear legs with the handle of a hammer to loosen them–a procedure that’s easier to accomplish with a helper.
Your washer has either a painted steel or porcelain-coated steel cabinet. It’s perfectly safe to use a little dish detergent and a damp rag to clean all of its surfaces. If the surface is porcelain, you can even use a little non-abrasive cleanser for stubborn stains.
Most washing machines collect lint during the wash cycle and send it down the drain during the drain cycle.
If your machine is a Maytag, though, it may be different. Most Maytag washing machines collect lint in the center tube of the agitator. You need to lift out that tube and clean it periodically. Other machines have a lint filter near the top of the tub, which you need to slide out, clean off, and reinsert.
Courtesy of http://www.repairclinic.com/Washing-Machine-Maintenance-Tips
Your dryer vent pipe should be made of aluminum. The white vinyl duct that was common several years ago no longer meets most building codes, because if your dryer ignites it, a fire may start in your home.
Check the entire length of the vent pipe for lint build-up at least once a year–or more often if the dryer gets a lot of use.
Note… Remove the lint from the duct–don’t just push it back into the dryer or let it clog any part of the vent.
You can tackle lint build-up in the duct with our Vent Brush for Cleaning 4″ Round Dryer Vent accessory. It’s available in 10 foot and 20 foot lengths.
Interior of dryer cabinet
The lint produced by clothes tumbling in a dryer is normally trapped by the lint filter. However, some lint invariably escapes and accumulates on the inside of the dryer cabinet. At least once a year, check the inside of the cabinet, and clean it if necessary. Do this more frequently if the dryer is used heavily.
Check and clean the lint filter after every drying cycle. If the lint filter has any rips or tears, replace it. If the filter gets clogged by fabric softener residue or any other residue, you can easily clean it with a soft-bristle brush and a little detergent.
Area under lint filter
You can also clean the chute, duct, or area that the lint filter fits into. If necessary, use a vacuum cleaner to reach into the duct and clean out any lint.
Note… If the lint build-up is severe, it’s important to disassemble the dryer and clean out the lint more thoroughly. This is often a job for a qualified appliance repair technician, because there’s a risk of injuring yourself or damaging the machine.
Interior cleaning & deodorizing
You don’t need to clean the interior of your dishwasher if you use it regularly. If it goes un-used for a week or more and begins to mold or smell bad, you can clean it using Glisten Dishwasher Cleaner and Deodorizer.
Just clean the exterior of your dishwasher with a damp sponge and a little dish detergent.
Try RoVer Rust Remover to remove rust stains from the inside of your dishwasher.
Dish rack repairs
If the plastic coating wears off of the tines of the dish racks in your dishwasher, they may corrode and rust. We have repair kits available for those tines in Light Blue, Gray and White. These repair kits can be found in our Dishwasher Dishrack Parts section.
On many dishwashers, there’s a filter near the bottom, or under the lower spray arm that needs to be cleaned regularly. If you have this sort of filter, check your owner’s manual to find out how to remove and clean it. If it has holes in it, replace it to protect the pump and motor seals from particles that may be in the dishwasher.
Spray arm cleaning
Over time, the small holes in the spray arm(s) of your dishwasher may become clogged with bits of paper, toothpicks, glass, etc. Your dishwasher will do a better job of cleaning your dishes if you take a moment to clean out these small holes, from time to time.