2008 GSS23WGTAWW GE Refrigerator: Not coming on at times. I went out and the customer said when it cycled off it would not come back on at times, and other times it would.
I ordered the motherboard and replaced it and it fixed it, I called the customer back the next day and he said it was working just like new again.
Here’s the motherboard(main control board) for this model:
WR55X10942P Main Control Board
Went out to a service call on this refrigerator and it was not cooling, the compressor wasn’t running but the condenser fan motor was running. I unplugged the refrigerator, then removed the compressor start device relay and ohm tested it, my meter didn’t read any ohms on it, so it was bad. Normal would be between 3-12 ohms if it was good.
I then plugged the refrigerator in and took a voltage reading at the electrical connector that connects to the compressor start relay and it read 124 volts AC, so it was getting the correct voltage to it. I had a new compressor start relay in my truck and installed it and the compressor fired right up, and started cooling.
Here’s the compressor start device relay for this model:
WPW10197428 Compressor Start Device
When I arrived it was running very loud, like rocks were in it, rattling very bad. I took the dryer apart, and found the Idler Pulley was wobbling on the Idler Pulley shaft.
There is a video that shows you how to take the dryer apart to replace the Idler Pulley when you click the Idler Pulley part link below. Make sure you ALWAYS unplug the dryer first before working on it.
Here’s the Idler Pulley for this model:
I arrived at the customers house and the start button wouldn’t push in properly to make the washer start a cycle.
I replaced the control board and that fixed it! The start button is integrated into the control board.
Here’s the control board for this model:
WH12X10525 Board Asm Mounted
There is a video that shows you how to get into the control panel to replace it here: GE Top-Load Washer Disassembly
I found the ice maker not making any ice at all, the ice maker would cycle but not put water in the ice maker tray. I volt tested the electrical connector that goes to the ice maker water inlet valve solenoid while the ice maker was cycling, and my multimeter was only showing 48 volts AC, and that ice maker water inlet valve solenoid needs 120 volts AC to put water in the ice maker tray.
I replaced the ice maker and it worked great, I could hear and see the water going into the ice maker tray.
Here’s the ice maker for this model:
When I arrived I pulled the refrigerator out from the wall, then unplugged the refrigerator, then removed the compressor start relay from the side of the compressor and used my digital multimeter to ohm test it, I set my meter on 200 ohms, and my meter’s numbers didn’t change when I ohm tested it, and that means its bad.
Normal ohms should be 12 ohms or less, usually around 5 ohms. I installed a new compressor start relay and the compressor came right on and started cooling. I also cleaned the customers condenser coil. located underneath the front of the refrigerator, behind the kickplate grille.
Here’s the compressor start relay for this model: