The refrigerator was very hot between the freezer door and the refrigerator doors, I pulled the refrigerator out from the wall and saw the condenser fan motor not running.
I checked for 12 Volts DC at the RED and BLACK wire connections to the condenser fan motor, while the compressor was running, and saw 12 Volts DC on my multimeter, so the main control board was putting out the proper voltage.
I ordered and replaced the condenser fan motor and it worked great!
Here is the condenser fan motor you this model:
WR60X23363 Fan Gasket Asm
I went out to the customers house and their refrigerator was not cooling in the freezer or refrigerator sections.
I pulled the refrigerator out from the wall and removed the rear lower access panel and the compressor was not running at all, but the condenser fan motor, that mounts next to the compressor, was running.
Then I checked for 120 volts AC at the two larger wires that go to the compressor invertor board and 120 volts AC was present and on the two smaller wires I was getting 5 volts DC, which means the compressor inverter was the bad part.
I then unplugged the refrigerator and I replaced the compressor inverter board and the compressor started running and it started to get cold inside the freezer and refrigerator sections.
Here’s the compressor inverter board for this model. You will see a video of how to replace it when you click the part link to the compressor inverter board: Compressor Inverter WR87X29409
Here’s the photo of it:
The dryer was running but not heating at all. I always first unplug the dryer from the wall outlet and then ohm test the thermal fuse, which I did and it was good. Then I disconnected the flame sensor and ohm test that, its located on the side of the burner tube, and that ohm test bad, no continuity going through it.
I replaced the flame sensor and it started heating and worked great!
Here’s the flame sensor for this model:
Flame Sensor WP338906
Went out to this service call and the customer said she could not get any cold water to flow into the tub when its filling, just hot water. I removed the console and used my multimeter to test for 120 volts at the cold water side of the water inlet valve solenoid when it should be filling with cold water, my meter read 120 volts. So that means the cold water side solenoid was bad.
On this model you can’t get the cold water side solenoid only, you have to replace the complete water inlet valve which includes both the hot and cold solenoids. I installed a new one and it worked great!
Here’s the water inlet valve for this model:
I went on this service call, this is called a bottom mount refrigerator(Refrigerator on Top, Freezer on Bottom), and the freezer section was freezing and doing good, but the refrigerator section was warm above 50 degrees.
I opened the freezer door and heard the evaporator fan motor running and saw lots frost build up at the bottom vent on the back panel inside the freezer, I removed the freezer door, shelves, and ice maker, then I removed the back panel inside the freezer, and the evaporator coil was completely frosted up to where I couldn’t even see the coil.
Before I defrosted it I unplugged the refrigerator, and ohm tested the defrost thermostat and it read closed(continuity) on my multimeter, so I knew that was good, then ohm tested the defrost heater and had 11 ohms and that was good. So the only part left that would cause this is a faulty control board(JAZZ).
Remember: Before you replace the JAZZ board you MUST defrost the evaporator coil first! I used my heat gun to defrost it.
Here’s the JAZZ board for this model:
WPW10503278 Electronic Control Board
Went out on a service call and the complaint was the washer would not spin. I first unplugged the washer and ohm tested the lid switch for continuity, while I activated the lever on it. It ohm tested bad, no continuity, meaning the numbers on my digital multimeter didn’t change.
I replaced the lid switch and it worked perfect!
Here’s the lid switch for this model:
WP8318084 Lid Switch
This video shows you how to ohm test it for continuity: Lid Switch Testing