Went out on a service call and the complaint was the washer would not spin. I first unplugged the washer and ohm tested the lid switch for continuity, while I activated the lever on it. It ohm tested bad, no continuity, meaning the numbers on my digital multimeter didn’t change.
I replaced the lid switch and it worked perfect!
Here’s the lid switch for this model:
WP8318084 Lid Switch
This video shows you how to ohm test it for continuity: Lid Switch Testing
I went out on a service call and the complaint was water constanting dripping into the tub at all times, even when the washer was not being used. Over time the water inlet valve wears out and causes this to happen.
I replaced the water inlet valve and it worked great! No more dripping water into the tub.
Here’s the water inlet valve for this model:
WP22002360 Water Inlet Valve
There is a video in the water inlet valve part link that shows you how to replace it.
I went out to a customers house and they said the dishwasher door would just fall when opened, no tension at all on it.
I removed the lower access panel below the door and saw the door balance link cable had broken. I replaced it with a new one and it works great!
Here’s the door balance link cable for this model:
8194001 Door Balance Link Cable
There is a Video Included in the part link that shows you how to replace it!
When I arrived the washer was not spinning, and the sensor light was flashing when I put it in a drain/spin cycle to test it.
The tech sheet is located inside the washer taped to the inner front panel, after you raise the top you will see it. This video shows you how to raise the top.
Go into diagnostics and retrieve the codes, and clear them. If, when in diagnostics the codes are F7E1, F7E5, or motor speed codes, then chances are it is a motor, capacitor, or shifter related issue. Once the codes are cleared, put the washer into a manual diagnostic test and run the HEAVY AGITATION; if after 15‐20 Seconds the motor runs then you can rule out the motor, capacitor, control.
I removed the old shift actuator and installed the new one and it’s fixed!
Here’s the shift actuator for this model:
Shift Actuator W10913953
I went out on a service call for a refrigerator not cooling properly in the fresh food section, the freezer section was just barely keeping items frozen.
I heard the compressor running but when I opened the freezer door the freezer(evaporator) fan was not running. I unplugged the refrigerator and then removed the back panel inside the freezer, then removed the electrical connector to the freezer fan and put my meter probes in it, and plugged the refrigerator back in and my meter read 120 volts.
So I was getting 120 volts at the freezer fan motor but it was not running. I ordered a new one and came back and replaced the freezer fan motor and it started running full blast.
Also I de-iced the air duct that channels cold freezer air into the fresh food section, as condensation had formed in there and turned to ice, after the freezer fan went out, weeks before the customer called me to fix it.
Here’s the freezer(evaporator) fan motor for this model:
Evaporator Fan Motor 242077705
Gibson is in the Frigidaire group of appliances.
The customers complaint was it was not heating constantly through the entire drying cycle. The gas would fire at the beginning of the drying cycle, but as the cycle progressed you could hear the gas coils clicking but no gas was coming out to fire it up for the flame to ignite, thus the rest of the drying cycle there was no heat at all.
The most common part that causes this on gas dryers is the gas coils become weak, and they have to be replaced with new gas coils to solve this problem.
Here are the gas coils for this model:
5303931775 Dryer Gas Valve Coil Kit
There is a video that shows you how to replace them when you click the part link to the Gas Coils.