I went on this service call, this is called a bottom mount refrigerator(Refrigerator on Top, Freezer on Bottom), and the freezer section was freezing and doing good, but the refrigerator section was warm above 50 degrees.
I opened the freezer door and heard the evaporator fan motor running and saw lots frost build up at the bottom vent on the back panel inside the freezer, I removed the freezer door, shelves, and ice maker, then I removed the back panel inside the freezer, and the evaporator coil was completely frosted up to where I couldn’t even see the coil.
Before I defrosted it I unplugged the refrigerator, and ohm tested the defrost thermostat and it read closed(continuity) on my multimeter, so I knew that was good, then ohm tested the defrost heater and had 11 ohms and that was good. So the only part left that would cause this is a faulty control board(JAZZ).
Remember: Before you replace the JAZZ board you MUST defrost the evaporator coil first! I used my heat gun to defrost it.
Here’s the JAZZ board for this model:
WPW10503278 Electronic Control Board
Went out on a service call and the complaint was the washer would not spin. I first unplugged the washer and ohm tested the lid switch for continuity, while I activated the lever on it. It ohm tested bad, no continuity, meaning the numbers on my digital multimeter didn’t change.
I replaced the lid switch and it worked perfect!
Here’s the lid switch for this model:
WP8318084 Lid Switch
This video shows you how to ohm test it for continuity: Lid Switch Testing
I went out on a service call and the complaint was water constanting dripping into the tub at all times, even when the washer was not being used. Over time the water inlet valve wears out and causes this to happen.
I replaced the water inlet valve and it worked great! No more dripping water into the tub.
Here’s the water inlet valve for this model:
WP22002360 Water Inlet Valve
There is a video in the water inlet valve part link that shows you how to replace it.
I went out to a customers house and they said the dishwasher door would just fall when opened, no tension at all on it.
I removed the lower access panel below the door and saw the door balance link cable had broken. I replaced it with a new one and it works great!
Here’s the door balance link cable for this model:
8194001 Door Balance Link Cable
There is a Video Included in the part link that shows you how to replace it!
When I arrived the washer was not spinning, and the sensor light was flashing when I put it in a drain/spin cycle to test it.
The tech sheet is located inside the washer taped to the inner front panel, after you raise the top you will see it. This video shows you how to raise the top.
Go into diagnostics and retrieve the codes, and clear them. If, when in diagnostics the codes are F7E1, F7E5, or motor speed codes, then chances are it is a motor, capacitor, or shifter related issue. Once the codes are cleared, put the washer into a manual diagnostic test and run the HEAVY AGITATION; if after 15‐20 Seconds the motor runs then you can rule out the motor, capacitor, control.
I removed the old shift actuator and installed the new one and it’s fixed!
Here’s the shift actuator for this model:
Shift Actuator W10913953