LGC6848AQ1 Whirlpool Gas Dryer Not Heating

The dryer was running but not heating at all. I always first unplug the dryer from the wall outlet and then ohm test the thermal fuse, which I did and it was good. Then I disconnected the flame sensor and ohm test that, its located on the side of the burner tube, and that ohm test bad, no continuity going through it.

I replaced the flame sensor and it started heating and worked great!

Here’s the flame sensor for this model:
Flame Sensor WP338906
WP338906

Jake

WTW5000DW1 Whirlpool Washer No Cold Water

Went out to this service call and the customer said she could not get any cold water to flow into the tub when its filling, just hot water. I removed the console and used my multimeter to test for 120 volts at the cold water side of the water inlet valve solenoid when it should be filling with cold water, my meter read 120 volts. So that means the cold water side solenoid was bad.

On this model you can’t get the cold water side solenoid only, you have to replace the complete water inlet valve which includes both the hot and cold solenoids. I installed a new one and it worked great!

Here’s the water inlet valve for this model:
W11210459 Valve
W11210459

This video gives you the general idea of how to replace it:

GB2FHDXWQ02 Whirlpool Refrigerator Not Cooling in Refrigerator Section

I went on this service call, this is called a bottom mount refrigerator(Refrigerator on Top, Freezer on Bottom), and the freezer section was freezing and doing good, but the refrigerator section was warm above 50 degrees.

I opened the freezer door and heard the evaporator fan motor running and saw lots frost build up at the bottom vent on the back panel inside the freezer, I removed the freezer door, shelves, and ice maker, then I removed the back panel inside the freezer, and the evaporator coil was completely frosted up to where I couldn’t even see the coil.

Before I defrosted it I unplugged the refrigerator, and ohm tested the defrost thermostat and it read closed(continuity) on my multimeter, so I knew that was good, then ohm tested the defrost heater and had 11 ohms and that was good. So the only part left that would cause this is a faulty control board(JAZZ).

Remember: Before you replace the JAZZ board you MUST defrost the evaporator coil first! I used my heat gun to defrost it.

Here’s the JAZZ board for this model:
WPW10503278 Electronic Control Board
WPW10503278

Jake

ATW4475TQ0 Admiral Washer Not Spinning

Went out on a service call and the complaint was the washer would not spin. I first unplugged the washer and ohm tested the lid switch for continuity, while I activated the lever on it. It ohm tested bad, no continuity, meaning the numbers on my digital multimeter didn’t change.

I replaced the lid switch and it worked perfect!

Here’s the lid switch for this model:
WP8318084 Lid Switch
WP8318084 Lid Switch

This video shows you how to ohm test it for continuity: Lid Switch Testing

LSE7806ACE Maytag Stack Washer Dripping Water

I went out on a service call and the complaint was water constanting dripping into the tub at all times, even when the washer was not being used. Over time the water inlet valve wears out and causes this to happen.

I replaced the water inlet valve and it worked great! No more dripping water into the tub.

Here’s the water inlet valve for this model:
WP22002360 Water Inlet Valve
WP22002360

There is a video in the water inlet valve part link that shows you how to replace it.

Jake