Samsung Dryer DV42H5200EW/A3 Not Heating

I found the customers dryer vent clogged on the outside of their house, which caused the thermal cut-off, which is located on the heating element housing, to go bad.

I cleaned their outside exhaust vent, and cleaned their entire vent hose exhaust in the back of the dryer of all lint.

I unplugged the dryer, then disassembled the dryer and removed the drum to get better access to it, then I ohm tested the thermal cut-off and I got no continuity on my multimeter. I also ohm tested the heating element and the high-limit thermostat and both ohm tested good.

I replaced the thermal cut-off, reassembled the dryer, plugged it in, and it started heating normally again.

Here’s the thermal cut-off(also called a thermal fuse) for this model:
DC96-00887C Thermal Fuse Assembly
DC96-00887C Thermal cut-off

Western Arizona Forecast:
Tonight
Mostly clear. Lows 58 to 68. Southwest wind 5 to 10 mph.
Tuesday
Partly sunny. Highs 93 to 98. South wind 5 to 10 mph.

Maytag Dryer MED6000XW1 Not Heating

I went out to this customers house because they said their dryer was not heating at all. When I got there I unplugged the dryer, then used my multimeter to test the 240 volt wall outlet that the dryer was plugged into, my multimeter said 240 volts across the two 120 volt hot legs.

With the dryer still unplugged I then disassembled their dryer and ohm tested the heating element, my multimeter did not register anything(meaning my digital multimeter numbers did not change) when I touched each meter probe to the heating element terminals, so it was bad. The normal ohms should be 50 ohms or less when the heating element is good.

Here’s the heating element for this model:
WP8544771 Heating Element
WP8544771 Heating Element

Western Arizona Weather:
Tonight
Clear. Lows 48 to 58. Northwest wind 5 to 15 mph.

Thursday
Sunny and warmer. Highs 84 to 89. Northeast wind around 5 mph in the morning becoming northwest 5 to 10 mph in the afternoon.

Hotpoint Refrigerator HTS22GBPBRCC Not Cooling

I went out to see why this refrigerator wasn’t cooling. I found that the condenser fan motor, that’s located in the very back of the refrigerator, wasn’t running and blowing air. It had stopped running and I was getting 120 volts to it.

Also due to the condenser fan motor not running it overheated the compressor start relay and made that go bad too. So I replaced both parts and it worked great!

Here’s the condenser fan motor for this model:
WR60X10220 Condenser Fan Motor
WR60X10220 Condenser Fan Motor

Here’s the compressor start relay for this model:
WR07X10055 Relay Ptcr
WR07X10055 Compressor Start Relay

Western Arizona Weather:
Tonight
Considerable cloudiness in the evening then becoming partly cloudy. A slight chance of showers. Cooler. Lows 50 to 60. West wind 5 to 15 mph. Chance of measurable rain 20 percent.
Friday
Mostly sunny. Highs 75 to 80. West wind 5 to 15 mph.

Jake

106.53242300 Sears Kenmore Refrigerator Not Cooling Properly

The refrigerator was squealing very loud and it was coming from inside the freezer, I found the evaporator fan motor was squealing and shutting down in sequence, thus not cooling the freezer and refrigerator sections properly.

The evaporator coil had a thin layer of frost on it, which is normal, so the sealed system was working properly.

I replaced the evaporator fan motor, and it started working normal again.

Here’s the evaporator fan motor for this model:
WP4389147 Motor-Evaporator
WP4389147 Motor-Evaporator

Western Arizona Weather:
This Afternoon
Mostly sunny, with a high near 79. North northeast wind around 5 mph becoming west northwest.

Tonight
Mostly clear, with a low around 43. Northwest wind around 5 mph becoming calm.