I found the customers dryer vent clogged on the outside of their house, which caused the thermal cut-off, which is located on the heating element housing, to go bad.
I cleaned their outside exhaust vent, and cleaned their entire vent hose exhaust in the back of the dryer of all lint.
I unplugged the dryer, then disassembled the dryer and removed the drum to get better access to it, then I ohm tested the thermal cut-off and I got no continuity on my multimeter. I also ohm tested the heating element and the high-limit thermostat and both ohm tested good.
I replaced the thermal cut-off, reassembled the dryer, plugged it in, and it started heating normally again.
Here’s the thermal cut-off(also called a thermal fuse) for this model:
Western Arizona Forecast:
Mostly clear. Lows 58 to 68. Southwest wind 5 to 10 mph.
Partly sunny. Highs 93 to 98. South wind 5 to 10 mph.
I went out to this customers house because they said their dryer was not heating at all. When I got there I unplugged the dryer, then used my multimeter to test the 240 volt wall outlet that the dryer was plugged into, my multimeter said 240 volts across the two 120 volt hot legs.
With the dryer still unplugged I then disassembled their dryer and ohm tested the heating element, my multimeter did not register anything(meaning my digital multimeter numbers did not change) when I touched each meter probe to the heating element terminals, so it was bad. The normal ohms should be 50 ohms or less when the heating element is good.
Here’s the heating element for this model:
WP8544771 Heating Element
Western Arizona Weather:
Clear. Lows 48 to 58. Northwest wind 5 to 15 mph.
Sunny and warmer. Highs 84 to 89. Northeast wind around 5 mph in the morning becoming northwest 5 to 10 mph in the afternoon.
Whirlpool Dryer model number LER6620PQ0
Unplugged dryer, ohm tested heating element to heater housing to check for grounded element, heating element ohm tested good, and not to the heater housing ground either.
Found stuck contact in timer causing this problem, Installed new timer, worked great!
Here’s the OEM timer I replaced for this model:
Your dryer vent pipe should be made of aluminum. The white vinyl duct that was common several years ago no longer meets most building codes, because if your dryer ignites it, a fire may start in your home.
Check the entire length of the vent pipe for lint build-up at least once a year–or more often if the dryer gets a lot of use.
Note… Remove the lint from the duct–don’t just push it back into the dryer or let it clog any part of the vent.
You can tackle lint build-up in the duct with our Vent Brush for Cleaning 4″ Round Dryer Vent accessory. It’s available in 10 foot and 20 foot lengths.
Interior of dryer cabinet
The lint produced by clothes tumbling in a dryer is normally trapped by the lint filter. However, some lint invariably escapes and accumulates on the inside of the dryer cabinet. At least once a year, check the inside of the cabinet, and clean it if necessary. Do this more frequently if the dryer is used heavily.
Check and clean the lint filter after every drying cycle. If the lint filter has any rips or tears, replace it. If the filter gets clogged by fabric softener residue or any other residue, you can easily clean it with a soft-bristle brush and a little detergent.
Area under lint filter
You can also clean the chute, duct, or area that the lint filter fits into. If necessary, use a vacuum cleaner to reach into the duct and clean out any lint.
Note… If the lint build-up is severe, it’s important to disassemble the dryer and clean out the lint more thoroughly. This is often a job for a qualified appliance repair technician, because there’s a risk of injuring yourself or damaging the machine.
Having a Multimeter is a must for appliance repair for testing voltage to appliances and appliance parts, continuity/ohms on thermal fuses, thermostats, thermistors, heating elements. The list goes on and on.
This multimeter even has a temperature probe which is good for testing refrigerator, dryer, and oven temperatures.
Volts AC 750 , Volts DC 1000, Amps AC 10, Resistance max. (Ohms) 2M, Continuity, Temperature -4 °F to 2498° F, Display (Counts) 2,000, Operating Temperature 32° F to 74° F (0°C to 23°C), Fuse Protection mA: 0.2A/ 250V, Power 9 V Battery (included), Size 5.5″L x 3″W x 1.5″. Temp probe included.
We seem to be having lots of members coming to our dryer forum and are having their dryer motor starting to fail, after about 8 years dryer motors can simply just wear out under normal use. The sign of a dryer motor going out is when you start the dryer it makes a grinding sound and runs a little while then just stops completely.
Here’s the most common dryer motor for the Sears Kenmore/Whirlpool models with the lint filter on top of the dryer:
Manufacturer part number 279827 is RepairClinic item number 2584