When I arrived it was running very loud, like rocks were in it, rattling very bad. I took the dryer apart, and found the Idler Pulley was wobbling on the Idler Pulley shaft.
There is a video that shows you how to take the dryer apart to replace the Idler Pulley when you click the Idler Pulley part link below. Make sure you ALWAYS unplug the dryer first before working on it.
Here’s the Idler Pulley for this model:
I went to the customers house and found the dryer running but not heating at all. The Ignitor was not even turning on. I unplugged the dryer from the wall outlet, then took the dryer apart and ohm tested the thermal limiter that’s located on the burner tube and it ohm tested bad, no continuity at all.
I ordered and replaced the thermal limiter and it worked good and started heating.
Here’s the thermal limiter for this model:
The customer complaint was the dryer was very noisy, I ran the dryer and did confirm it was extremely loud when the drum was turning. I unplugged the dryer and disassembled it and found two of the drum rollers were bad and worn out, wobbling on the roller shaft. The roller shaft also had metal shavings on the dryer base.
I replaced all four rollers and roller shafts, it’s always best to replace all four at once. After I replaced them it sounded like a normal dryer running.
Here’s the roller and shaft assembly for this model:
4581EL2002C Drum Support Roller Assembly
Western Arizona Weather:
Sunny, with a high near 100. Breezy, with a south southeast wind around 15 mph, with gusts as high as 20 mph.
Clear, with a low around 63. Breezy, with a south southwest wind 10 to 15 mph becoming southeast after midnight.
I found the customers dryer vent clogged on the outside of their house, which caused the thermal cut-off, which is located on the heating element housing, to go bad.
I cleaned their outside exhaust vent, and cleaned their entire vent hose exhaust in the back of the dryer of all lint.
I unplugged the dryer, then disassembled the dryer and removed the drum to get better access to it, then I ohm tested the thermal cut-off and I got no continuity on my multimeter. I also ohm tested the heating element and the high-limit thermostat and both ohm tested good.
I replaced the thermal cut-off, reassembled the dryer, plugged it in, and it started heating normally again.
Here’s the thermal cut-off(also called a thermal fuse) for this model:
DC96-00887C Thermal Fuse Assembly
Western Arizona Forecast:
Mostly clear. Lows 58 to 68. Southwest wind 5 to 10 mph.
Partly sunny. Highs 93 to 98. South wind 5 to 10 mph.
I went out to this customers house because they said their dryer was not heating at all. When I got there I unplugged the dryer, then used my multimeter to test the 240 volt wall outlet that the dryer was plugged into, my multimeter said 240 volts across the two 120 volt hot legs.
With the dryer still unplugged I then disassembled their dryer and ohm tested the heating element, my multimeter did not register anything(meaning my digital multimeter numbers did not change) when I touched each meter probe to the heating element terminals, so it was bad. The normal ohms should be 50 ohms or less when the heating element is good.
Here’s the heating element for this model:
WP8544771 Heating Element
Western Arizona Weather:
Clear. Lows 48 to 58. Northwest wind 5 to 15 mph.
Sunny and warmer. Highs 84 to 89. Northeast wind around 5 mph in the morning becoming northwest 5 to 10 mph in the afternoon.
Whirlpool Dryer model number LER6620PQ0
Unplugged dryer, ohm tested heating element to heater housing to check for grounded element, heating element ohm tested good, and not to the heater housing ground either.
Found stuck contact in timer causing this problem, Installed new timer, worked great!
Here’s the OEM timer I replaced for this model: