I went out to the customers house and their refrigerator was not cooling in the freezer or refrigerator sections.
I pulled the refrigerator out from the wall and removed the rear lower access panel and the compressor was not running at all, but the condenser fan motor, that mounts next to the compressor, was running.
Then I checked for 120 volts AC at the two larger wires that go to the compressor invertor board and 120 volts AC was present and on the two smaller wires I was getting 5 volts DC, which means the compressor inverter was the bad part.
I then unplugged the refrigerator and I replaced the compressor inverter board and the compressor started running and it started to get cold inside the freezer and refrigerator sections.
Here’s the compressor inverter board for this model. You will see a video of how to replace it when you click the part link to the compressor inverter board: Compressor Inverter WR87X29409
Here’s the photo of it:
The dryer was running but not heating at all. I always first unplug the dryer from the wall outlet and then ohm test the thermal fuse, which I did and it was good. Then I disconnected the flame sensor and ohm test that, its located on the side of the burner tube, and that ohm test bad, no continuity going through it.
I replaced the flame sensor and it started heating and worked great!
Here’s the flame sensor for this model:
Flame Sensor WP338906
Went out on a service call and the complaint was the washer would not spin. I first unplugged the washer and ohm tested the lid switch for continuity, while I activated the lever on it. It ohm tested bad, no continuity, meaning the numbers on my digital multimeter didn’t change.
I replaced the lid switch and it worked perfect!
Here’s the lid switch for this model:
WP8318084 Lid Switch
This video shows you how to ohm test it for continuity: Lid Switch Testing
I went out to this refrigerator and found the back panel inside the freezer had massive frost build-up on it. I first unplugged the refrigerator from the wall electrical outlet, then ohm tested the defrost heater and found it was bad, meaning the numbers on my digital multimeter didn’t change. Normal ohms for most at defrost heaters is mainly about 30 ohms or less.
I completely defrosted the entire evaporator coil, which is located behind the back panel in the freezer, then I removed the old defrost heater assembly and installed the new defrost heater assembly, worked great!
Here’s the defrost heater assembly for this model:
WR51X10055 Defrost Heater and Bracket Assembly
When I arrived the back panel inside the freezer has massive frost buildup on it. I unplugged the refrigerator from the wall outlet, then ohm tested the defrost thermostat while it was frosty and the heating element, both ohm tested good.
I ordered and replaced the adaptive defrost control board and it worked great!
Before the adaptive defrost control board is replaced its a must to defrost the entire evaporator coil from top to bottom.
Here is the adaptive defrost control board for this model:
W11227239 Adaptive Defrost Control Board
The customer complaint was the dryer was very noisy, I ran the dryer and did confirm it was extremely loud when the drum was turning. I unplugged the dryer and disassembled it and found two of the drum rollers were bad and worn out, wobbling on the roller shaft. The roller shaft also had metal shavings on the dryer base.
I replaced all four rollers and roller shafts, it’s always best to replace all four at once. After I replaced them it sounded like a normal dryer running.
Here’s the roller and shaft assembly for this model:
4581EL2002C Drum Support Roller Assembly
Western Arizona Weather:
Sunny, with a high near 100. Breezy, with a south southeast wind around 15 mph, with gusts as high as 20 mph.
Clear, with a low around 63. Breezy, with a south southwest wind 10 to 15 mph becoming southeast after midnight.