I went on this service call, this is called a bottom mount refrigerator(Refrigerator on Top, Freezer on Bottom), and the freezer section was freezing and doing good, but the refrigerator section was warm above 50 degrees.
I opened the freezer door and heard the evaporator fan motor running and saw lots frost build up at the bottom vent on the back panel inside the freezer, I removed the freezer door, shelves, and ice maker, then I removed the back panel inside the freezer, and the evaporator coil was completely frosted up to where I couldn’t even see the coil.
Before I defrosted it I unplugged the refrigerator, and ohm tested the defrost thermostat and it read closed(continuity) on my multimeter, so I knew that was good, then ohm tested the defrost heater and had 11 ohms and that was good. So the only part left that would cause this is a faulty control board(JAZZ).
Remember: Before you replace the JAZZ board you MUST defrost the evaporator coil first! I used my heat gun to defrost it.
Here’s the JAZZ board for this model:
WPW10503278 Electronic Control Board
I went out on a service call for a refrigerator not cooling properly in the fresh food section, the freezer section was just barely keeping items frozen.
I heard the compressor running but when I opened the freezer door the freezer(evaporator) fan was not running. I unplugged the refrigerator and then removed the back panel inside the freezer, then removed the electrical connector to the freezer fan and put my meter probes in it, and plugged the refrigerator back in and my meter read 120 volts.
So I was getting 120 volts at the freezer fan motor but it was not running. I ordered a new one and came back and replaced the freezer fan motor and it started running full blast.
Also I de-iced the air duct that channels cold freezer air into the fresh food section, as condensation had formed in there and turned to ice, after the freezer fan went out, weeks before the customer called me to fix it.
Here’s the freezer(evaporator) fan motor for this model:
Evaporator Fan Motor 242077705
2008 GSS23WGTAWW GE Refrigerator: Not coming on at times. I went out and the customer said when it cycled off it would not come back on at times, and other times it would.
I ordered the motherboard and replaced it and it fixed it, I called the customer back the next day and he said it was working just like new again.
Here’s the motherboard(main control board) for this model:
WR55X10942P Main Control Board
Went out to a service call on this refrigerator and it was not cooling, the compressor wasn’t running but the condenser fan motor was running. I unplugged the refrigerator, then removed the compressor start device relay and ohm tested it, my meter didn’t read any ohms on it, so it was bad. Normal would be between 3-12 ohms if it was good.
I then plugged the refrigerator in and took a voltage reading at the electrical connector that connects to the compressor start relay and it read 124 volts AC, so it was getting the correct voltage to it. I had a new compressor start relay in my truck and installed it and the compressor fired right up, and started cooling.
Here’s the compressor start device relay for this model:
WPW10197428 Compressor Start Device
I found the ice maker not making any ice at all, the ice maker would cycle but not put water in the ice maker tray. I volt tested the electrical connector that goes to the ice maker water inlet valve solenoid while the ice maker was cycling, and my multimeter was only showing 48 volts AC, and that ice maker water inlet valve solenoid needs 120 volts AC to put water in the ice maker tray.
I replaced the ice maker and it worked great, I could hear and see the water going into the ice maker tray.
Here’s the ice maker for this model:
When I arrived I pulled the refrigerator out from the wall, then unplugged the refrigerator, then removed the compressor start relay from the side of the compressor and used my digital multimeter to ohm test it, I set my meter on 200 ohms, and my meter’s numbers didn’t change when I ohm tested it, and that means its bad.
Normal ohms should be 12 ohms or less, usually around 5 ohms. I installed a new compressor start relay and the compressor came right on and started cooling. I also cleaned the customers condenser coil. located underneath the front of the refrigerator, behind the kickplate grille.
Here’s the compressor start relay for this model: