Went out to this service call and the customer said she could not get any cold water to flow into the tub when its filling, just hot water. I removed the console and used my multimeter to test for 120 volts at the cold water side of the water inlet valve solenoid when it should be filling with cold water, my meter read 120 volts. So that means the cold water side solenoid was bad.
On this model you can’t get the cold water side solenoid only, you have to replace the complete water inlet valve which includes both the hot and cold solenoids. I installed a new one and it worked great!
Here’s the water inlet valve for this model: W11210459 Valve
This video gives you the general idea of how to replace it:
I went on this service call, this is called a bottom mount refrigerator(Refrigerator on Top, Freezer on Bottom), and the freezer section was freezing and doing good, but the refrigerator section was warm above 50 degrees.
I opened the freezer door and heard the evaporator fan motor running and saw lots frost build up at the bottom vent on the back panel inside the freezer, I removed the freezer door, shelves, and ice maker, then I removed the back panel inside the freezer, and the evaporator coil was completely frosted up to where I couldn’t even see the coil.
Before I defrosted it I unplugged the refrigerator, and ohm tested the defrost thermostat and it read closed(continuity) on my multimeter, so I knew that was good, then ohm tested the defrost heater and had 11 ohms and that was good. So the only part left that would cause this is a faulty control board(JAZZ).
Remember: Before you replace the JAZZ board you MUST defrost the evaporator coil first! I used my heat gun to defrost it.
When I arrived the washer was not spinning, and the sensor light was flashing when I put it in a drain/spin cycle to test it.
The tech sheet is located inside the washer taped to the inner front panel, after you raise the top you will see it. This video shows you how to raise the top.
Go into diagnostics and retrieve the codes, and clear them. If, when in diagnostics the codes are F7E1, F7E5, or motor speed codes, then chances are it is a motor, capacitor, or shifter related issue. Once the codes are cleared, put the washer into a manual diagnostic test and run the HEAVY AGITATION; if after 15‐20 Seconds the motor runs then you can rule out the motor, capacitor, control.
I removed the old shift actuator and installed the new one and it’s fixed!
2008 GSS23WGTAWW GE Refrigerator: Not coming on at times. I went out and the customer said when it cycled off it would not come back on at times, and other times it would.
I ordered the motherboard and replaced it and it fixed it, I called the customer back the next day and he said it was working just like new again.
I went out to this customers house because they said their dryer was not heating at all. When I got there I unplugged the dryer, then used my multimeter to test the 240 volt wall outlet that the dryer was plugged into, my multimeter said 240 volts across the two 120 volt hot legs.
With the dryer still unplugged I then disassembled their dryer and ohm tested the heating element, my multimeter did not register anything(meaning my digital multimeter numbers did not change) when I touched each meter probe to the heating element terminals, so it was bad. The normal ohms should be 50 ohms or less when the heating element is good.
The refrigerator was squealing very loud and it was coming from inside the freezer, I found the evaporator fan motor was squealing and shutting down in sequence, thus not cooling the freezer and refrigerator sections properly.
The evaporator coil had a thin layer of frost on it, which is normal, so the sealed system was working properly.
I replaced the evaporator fan motor, and it started working normal again.
