Went out to this service call and the customer said she could not get any cold water to flow into the tub when its filling, just hot water. I removed the console and used my multimeter to test for 120 volts at the cold water side of the water inlet valve solenoid when it should be filling with cold water, my meter read 120 volts. So that means the cold water side solenoid was bad.
On this model you can’t get the cold water side solenoid only, you have to replace the complete water inlet valve which includes both the hot and cold solenoids. I installed a new one and it worked great!
Went out on a service call and the complaint was the washer would not spin. I first unplugged the washer and ohm tested the lid switch for continuity, while I activated the lever on it. It ohm tested bad, no continuity, meaning the numbers on my digital multimeter didn’t change.
I went out on a service call and the complaint was water constanting dripping into the tub at all times, even when the washer was not being used. Over time the water inlet valve wears out and causes this to happen.
I replaced the water inlet valve and it worked great! No more dripping water into the tub.
When I arrived the washer was not spinning, and the sensor light was flashing when I put it in a drain/spin cycle to test it.
The tech sheet is located inside the washer taped to the inner front panel, after you raise the top you will see it. This video shows you how to raise the top.
Go into diagnostics and retrieve the codes, and clear them. If, when in diagnostics the codes are F7E1, F7E5, or motor speed codes, then chances are it is a motor, capacitor, or shifter related issue. Once the codes are cleared, put the washer into a manual diagnostic test and run the HEAVY AGITATION; if after 15‐20 Seconds the motor runs then you can rule out the motor, capacitor, control.
I removed the old shift actuator and installed the new one and it’s fixed!