WTW5000DW1 Whirlpool Washer No Cold Water

Went out to this service call and the customer said she could not get any cold water to flow into the tub when its filling, just hot water. I removed the console and used my multimeter to test for 120 volts at the cold water side of the water inlet valve solenoid when it should be filling with cold water, my meter read 120 volts. So that means the cold water side solenoid was bad.

On this model you can’t get the cold water side solenoid only, you have to replace the complete water inlet valve which includes both the hot and cold solenoids. I installed a new one and it worked great!

Here’s the water inlet valve for this model:
W11210459 Valve
W11210459

This video gives you the general idea of how to replace it:

GB2FHDXWQ02 Whirlpool Refrigerator Not Cooling in Refrigerator Section

I went on this service call, this is called a bottom mount refrigerator(Refrigerator on Top, Freezer on Bottom), and the freezer section was freezing and doing good, but the refrigerator section was warm above 50 degrees.

I opened the freezer door and heard the evaporator fan motor running and saw lots frost build up at the bottom vent on the back panel inside the freezer, I removed the freezer door, shelves, and ice maker, then I removed the back panel inside the freezer, and the evaporator coil was completely frosted up to where I couldn’t even see the coil.

Before I defrosted it I unplugged the refrigerator, and ohm tested the defrost thermostat and it read closed(continuity) on my multimeter, so I knew that was good, then ohm tested the defrost heater and had 11 ohms and that was good. So the only part left that would cause this is a faulty control board(JAZZ).

Remember: Before you replace the JAZZ board you MUST defrost the evaporator coil first! I used my heat gun to defrost it.

Here’s the JAZZ board for this model:
WPW10503278 Electronic Control Board
WPW10503278

Jake

GI0FSAXVY00 Whirlpool Refrigerator Not Cooling

Went out to a service call on this refrigerator and it was not cooling, the compressor wasn’t running but the condenser fan motor was running. I unplugged the refrigerator, then removed the compressor start device relay and ohm tested it, my meter didn’t read any ohms on it, so it was bad. Normal would be between 3-12 ohms if it was good.

I then plugged the refrigerator in and took a voltage reading at the electrical connector that connects to the compressor start relay and it read 124 volts AC, so it was getting the correct voltage to it. I had a new compressor start relay in my truck and installed it and the compressor fired right up, and started cooling.

Here’s the compressor start device relay for this model:
WPW10197428 Compressor Start Device
WPW10197428

Jake

WED6400SW0 Whirlpool Dryer Making Loud Noise

When I arrived it was running very loud, like rocks were in it, rattling very bad. I took the dryer apart, and found the Idler Pulley was wobbling on the Idler Pulley shaft.

There is a video that shows you how to take the dryer apart to replace the Idler Pulley when you click the Idler Pulley part link below. Make sure you ALWAYS unplug the dryer first before working on it.

Here’s the Idler Pulley for this model:
8547174V Pulley-Idr
8547174V

WRX735SDBM02 Whirlpool Refrigerator Ice Maker Not Working

I found the ice maker not making any ice at all, the ice maker would cycle but not put water in the ice maker tray. I volt tested the electrical connector that goes to the ice maker water inlet valve solenoid while the ice maker was cycling, and my multimeter was only showing 48 volts AC, and that ice maker water inlet valve solenoid needs 120 volts AC to put water in the ice maker tray.

I replaced the ice maker and it worked great, I could hear and see the water going into the ice maker tray.

Here’s the ice maker for this model:
W10882923 Icemaker
W10882923 ice maker

Jake

WTW8500DC0 Whirlpool Washer Not Filling Properly

Went on a service call in Parker, Arizona for a Whirlpool washer, model number WTW8500DC0, that wasn’t filling fast enough, very slow fill and it would time out per the control board. The error code was F8E1 LONG FILL.
I checked the customers water pressure to the washer on both hot and cold and it was good water pressure. Then I checked the water inlet valve screens and they were not clogged.
I ordered a new water inlet valve and went back to the customers house to install it, and it worked great, much faster water fill and no more error code F8E1.

Here’s the water inlet valve for this model:
W11165546 Valve
W11165546 water inlet valve

Jake

Western Arizona Forecast
Tonight:
Cloudy. A slight chance of showers in the evening, then a chance of showers after midnight. Not as cool. Lows 42 to 52. Southeast wind 5 to 10 mph. Chance of measurable rain 50 percent. Rainfall less than a tenth of an inch.
Thursday:
Showers. Locally heavy rain possible in the afternoon. Cooler. Highs 56 to 61. Southeast wind 10 to 15 mph. Chance of rain 90 percent. Rainfall up to three quarters of an inch possible.