Went on a service call in Parker, Arizona for a Whirlpool washer, model number WTW8500DC0, that wasn’t filling fast enough, very slow fill and it would time out per the control board. The error code was F8E1 LONG FILL.
I checked the customers water pressure to the washer on both hot and cold and it was good water pressure. Then I checked the water inlet valve screens and they were not clogged.
I ordered a new water inlet valve and went back to the customers house to install it, and it worked great, much faster water fill and no more error code F8E1.
Here’s the water inlet valve for this model:
Western Arizona Forecast
Cloudy. A slight chance of showers in the evening, then a chance of showers after midnight. Not as cool. Lows 42 to 52. Southeast wind 5 to 10 mph. Chance of measurable rain 50 percent. Rainfall less than a tenth of an inch.
Showers. Locally heavy rain possible in the afternoon. Cooler. Highs 56 to 61. Southeast wind 10 to 15 mph. Chance of rain 90 percent. Rainfall up to three quarters of an inch possible.
I removed back panel in the freezer and found lots of ice clogging up the air vents going to the refrigerator section, and ice clogging the drain line below the freezer evaporator. I de-iced it all, it took awhile to do, but it has to be done before the refrigerator will cool properly again.
I saw the evaporator fan wasn’t running in the freezer, so I removed the electrical connector from it and used my multimeter to see if it was getting 120 volts to it, and it was. So I replaced the evaporator fan motor and it started blowing cold air.
Here’s the evaporator fan motor for this model:
Western Arizona Weather:
Mostly clear. Lows 63 to 73. East wind 5 to 15 mph.
Sunday- Excessive Heat Warning
Partly sunny and hot. Highs 102 to 107. Southeast wind 5 to 15 mph in the morning becoming south in the afternoon.
Whirlpool Dryer model number LER6620PQ0
Unplugged dryer, ohm tested heating element to heater housing to check for grounded element, heating element ohm tested good, and not to the heater housing ground either.
Found stuck contact in timer causing this problem, Installed new timer, worked great!
Here’s the OEM timer I replaced for this model:
2006 Kenmore 106.56876600 Not cycling On by-itself, unless you hit the middle divider.
The contact in the temperature control thermostat is sticking, that’s why when the customer hits the middle divider the compressor and fans start running like normal.
The manufacturer has replaced part number WP2315562 with part number W11088945.
Here’s the temperature control thermostat for this model:
Model number LSR7300PQ2
The drain hose that goes from the water pump to the customers drain pipe was leaking near the bottom left side suspension support bracket of the washer.
Drain Hose W10096921
Over time, the water hoses that came with your new washing machine may leak or burst. It’s a good preventive maintenance practice to check these hoses from time to time for any sign of wear or weakness. Often there’s a small blister in the rubber of the hose, which could rupture. Most manufacturers recommend replacing the hoses every 5 years.
Note… If the hose ruptures, large quantities of water could gush from the hose. If it’s the hot water hose that ruptures, the gushing hot water may scald anyone nearby.
For more peace of mind, one alternative is to use high quality stainless steel fill hoses. In addition, we carry the black rubber hoses supplied by the manufacturer– go to our Shop For Parts section and enter your model number to locate the ones for your unit. We also offer universal washing machine hoses.
Because your washing machine is so heavy, when it’s not level, it can vibrate strongly during the spin cycle. If your washing machine is not perfectly level–with all four legs touching the floor–it can bang and rock back and forth, and even begin to “walk” across the room. This isn’t good for the machine and may damage anything near the machine.
Your washing machine has adjustable, front leveling legs with a lock nut. You adjust the leg to the proper height, then tighten the lock nut up against the body of the machine to keep the leg from rotating.
Some machines have adjustable leveling legs in the rear also, and you can adjust them in the same way. Keep the machine as close to the floor as possible–the lower it is, the less likely it is to vibrate.
Most machines, however, have “self-adjusting” rear legs. You set these legs by tilting the entire machine forward onto its front legs (with the rear legs 3 to 4 inches off the floor) and then setting the machine back down. The legs should adjust automatically. If they don’t, you may need to tilt the machine forward and rap on the rear legs with the handle of a hammer to loosen them–a procedure that’s easier to accomplish with a helper.
Your washer has either a painted steel or porcelain-coated steel cabinet. It’s perfectly safe to use a little dish detergent and a damp rag to clean all of its surfaces. If the surface is porcelain, you can even use a little non-abrasive cleanser for stubborn stains.
Most washing machines collect lint during the wash cycle and send it down the drain during the drain cycle.
If your machine is a Maytag, though, it may be different. Most Maytag washing machines collect lint in the center tube of the agitator. You need to lift out that tube and clean it periodically. Other machines have a lint filter near the top of the tub, which you need to slide out, clean off, and reinsert.
Courtesy of http://www.repairclinic.com/Washing-Machine-Maintenance-Tips