Went out to a service call on this refrigerator and it was not cooling, the compressor wasn’t running but the condenser fan motor was running. I unplugged the refrigerator, then removed the compressor start device relay and ohm tested it, my meter didn’t read any ohms on it, so it was bad. Normal would be between 3-12 ohms if it was good.
I then plugged the refrigerator in and took a voltage reading at the electrical connector that connects to the compressor start relay and it read 124 volts AC, so it was getting the correct voltage to it. I had a new compressor start relay in my truck and installed it and the compressor fired right up, and started cooling.
Here’s the compressor start device relay for this model:
WPW10197428 Compressor Start Device
When I arrived it was running very loud, like rocks were in it, rattling very bad. I took the dryer apart, and found the Idler Pulley was wobbling on the Idler Pulley shaft.
There is a video that shows you how to take the dryer apart to replace the Idler Pulley when you click the Idler Pulley part link below. Make sure you ALWAYS unplug the dryer first before working on it.
Here’s the Idler Pulley for this model:
I found the ice maker not making any ice at all, the ice maker would cycle but not put water in the ice maker tray. I volt tested the electrical connector that goes to the ice maker water inlet valve solenoid while the ice maker was cycling, and my multimeter was only showing 48 volts AC, and that ice maker water inlet valve solenoid needs 120 volts AC to put water in the ice maker tray.
I replaced the ice maker and it worked great, I could hear and see the water going into the ice maker tray.
Here’s the ice maker for this model:
Went on a service call in Parker, Arizona for a Whirlpool washer, model number WTW8500DC0, that wasn’t filling fast enough, very slow fill and it would time out per the control board. The error code was F8E1 LONG FILL.
I checked the customers water pressure to the washer on both hot and cold and it was good water pressure. Then I checked the water inlet valve screens and they were not clogged.
I ordered a new water inlet valve and went back to the customers house to install it, and it worked great, much faster water fill and no more error code F8E1.
Here’s the water inlet valve for this model:
Western Arizona Forecast
Cloudy. A slight chance of showers in the evening, then a chance of showers after midnight. Not as cool. Lows 42 to 52. Southeast wind 5 to 10 mph. Chance of measurable rain 50 percent. Rainfall less than a tenth of an inch.
Showers. Locally heavy rain possible in the afternoon. Cooler. Highs 56 to 61. Southeast wind 10 to 15 mph. Chance of rain 90 percent. Rainfall up to three quarters of an inch possible.
I removed back panel in the freezer and found lots of ice clogging up the air vents going to the refrigerator section, and ice clogging the drain line below the freezer evaporator. I de-iced it all, it took awhile to do, but it has to be done before the refrigerator will cool properly again.
I saw the evaporator fan wasn’t running in the freezer, so I removed the electrical connector from it and used my multimeter to see if it was getting 120 volts to it, and it was. So I replaced the evaporator fan motor and it started blowing cold air.
Here’s the evaporator fan motor for this model:
Western Arizona Weather:
Mostly clear. Lows 63 to 73. East wind 5 to 15 mph.
Sunday- Excessive Heat Warning
Partly sunny and hot. Highs 102 to 107. Southeast wind 5 to 15 mph in the morning becoming south in the afternoon.
Whirlpool Dryer model number LER6620PQ0
Unplugged dryer, ohm tested heating element to heater housing to check for grounded element, heating element ohm tested good, and not to the heater housing ground either.
Found stuck contact in timer causing this problem, Installed new timer, worked great!
Here’s the OEM timer I replaced for this model: