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106.51133210 Kenmore Refrigerator - Ice Maker on strike.

jajakoo

Premium Member
Joined
May 27, 2019
Messages
10
Location
Montreal
Model Number
106.51133210
Brand
Sears Kenmore
Age
1-5 years
Kenmore 106.51133210 - when pressing the front door cup lever-switch, the ice door/flap opens and that's it - nothing physically above that flap does anything (crushers, turning arm, ice-maker itself), then after a few seconds, the door/flap closes. I've verified the on/off switch (is ON). I saw a post about an optical sensor (not certain this unit has one) so I filled the ice bucket (from a bag of ice) and no change. Any troubleshooting tips?
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Aug 24, 2004
Messages
122,627
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Hi,

Broken/frayed wires comes to mind on this model, where the wire harness goes into the freezer door. This has become very common as of late.

(click to enlarge)
FREEZER DOOR - b4.jpg

Lots of members have found frayed and broken wires causing the auger motor or ice maker to be dead. Remove your bottom kickplate grille, Remove the black wire harness loom too, broken wires can be underneath it.

Another member was having a similar problem here: FIXED: GSF26C4EXY02 Whirlpool Gold Ice Maker Problem Look at his post #6 he found frayed and broken wires underneath the freezer door.

Here's another one with the same thing about the frayed and broken wires: FIXED: 106.51173310 Kenmore elite ice maker not working - no led light

Here's another: FIXED: Whirlpool WSF26C2EXF01 Door Icemaker Not Working

Let us know what you find.

Jake
 

jajakoo

Premium Member
Joined
May 27, 2019
Messages
10
Location
Montreal
Update (no fix yet) - I removed the freezer door and verified no frayed wires. I used a multimeter and checked the ice dispenser motor wires and have good continuity. With door back on, I measured voltage at the motor-end of that wire and while engaging the dispenser switch, there was no voltage. I see the wires going under left-side of the body but I don't see that wire (forgot the color at this moment) showing up at the circuit board on the back of the fridge. I can tell the dispenser switch is working because I get water and the ice "flap" opens.

Also, while all this is going on, the icemaker itself is not producing ice. Could there be something common to the motor and the ice? A circuit board in between the door and the main-board on the back? Or maybe some sensor that's stopping the motor and ice maker?
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
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Messages
122,627
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Ok,

Access the main control board behind the machine. On the main control board, locate connector P3.

P3-7 (blue wire) and P3-8 (gray wire) =130-140 Volts DC when the ice paddle is pressed.

Put your meter on DC Volts and measure between P3-7 (blue wire) and P3-8 (gray wire) when you have someone press the ice paddle and see if you get 130-140 Volts DC when the ice paddle is pressed.

If the voltage reading is incorrect, replace the main control board.

Here's the main control board for your model(you get a $60 credit on your credit card when you return the old one):
W11088499 Cntrl-Elec


Jake
 

jajakoo

Premium Member
Joined
May 27, 2019
Messages
10
Location
Montreal
Follow up: I measured the voltage as you said and it never got up to/above 2vdc.
Not in a rush to drop $300 (after turn-in) just to get the ice-maker working though...

Thanks for the guidance!!!
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
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Messages
122,627
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Ok, glad you were able to locate the problem.(y)

Thanks for the update!

Jake
 

jajakoo

Premium Member
Joined
May 27, 2019
Messages
10
Location
Montreal
Update: I purchased a re-manufactured board (very high rated vendor on ebay) and symptoms changed but not fixed.
With the new board, when getting water from the door it will not stop - I have to open the door to stop it.
As for the original problem, I see the voltage spike up on pins 7 & 8 (it did not move on the old board) but none of the ice maker symptoms have changed.

Not sure if I bought a dud board or if replacing the board unmasked another problem (or worse, CREATED another problem).

Thoughts?
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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I'd put money on getting a bad re-manufactured board on ebay. high ratings mean nothing on ebay or amazon, as they can be fudged very easy but paid reviewers.

For the ice maker problem:
Unplug the refrigerator from the wall outlet first for 5 minutes, then plug it back in, then remove the ice bucket and you will see a little flapper on the right side, tape the little door closed. Then check the voltage with holding the door switches in.

Look at the front of the ice maker module and locate holes "L" and "N". With your DMM check for 120 Volts AC.

If 120 Volts AC is present, try to force cycle the ice maker by shorting Holes "T" and "H" together with piece of wire. As soon as the ice maker starts a harvest cycle remove the wire.

If the ice maker doesn't start a harvest replace it:
WPW10251076 Icemaker


Force Cycle IM Test.jpg


Jake
 

jajakoo

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Joined
May 27, 2019
Messages
10
Location
Montreal
Jake,
thanks for the reply.
Following your directions, I do not get 120VAC on L / N.
Would you tell me where else to check that 120VAC on its way back to the Main Board?

Do you have a good link to schematics for this model?

TYVM for your many suggestions!
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Messages
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Ok, I'm attaching your tech. data sheet below, yes trace the wires back to the main control board, seems you have a short or cut wire since your not getting 120 volts in holes L and N on the ice maker module.

You did have the door switch pushed in and the little optics flapper on the left side taped closed before checking for 120 volts?

Jake
 

Attachments

  • W10516607 - Rev C.pdf
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jajakoo

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Joined
May 27, 2019
Messages
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Location
Montreal
Jake,
With the unit all closed up, I measured from P1-1 to P1-2 and have 120VAC. Measured from P3-3 to P1-1 and have 0 instead of 120VAC.
This problem is the same on both Minotaur boards (original suspect bad and refurbished - also suspect bad).
Would it make any difference if PLUG 3 were removed from the Minotaur board? Could something on that line (towards the thermal fuse, etc.) ?

1602646286600.png
1602647098100.png
 

Jake

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Messages
122,627
Location
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Measured from P3-3 to P1-1 and have 0 instead of 120VAC.
Did you take that voltage measurement with the wire harness unplugged from the control board? And measure across the P3-3 to P1-1 pins on the board itself?

Jake
 

jajakoo

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Joined
May 27, 2019
Messages
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Location
Montreal
Jake,
same result either way with P3 un/plugged. I followed the 120VAC (hot, P1-1) trace to K5 and it's good on the common and one side but not switching to pass the 120VAC to P3-3. I don't know if it's a defective relay or it's not getting the signal voltage. Unless that signal comes from off-board, I think this re-confirms bad board (Minotaur) .. ?

I'm returning the (first) replacement board and getting another elsewhere.

Thanks a ton for all the advice and info!!
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
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Messages
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Yes, bad board.

Order the board from my link to it in post #4 above and it should work fine.

Jake
 
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