FIXED 106.51173310 Kenmore elite ice maker not working - no led light

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grandinetti

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Model Number
106.51173310
Brand
Sears Kenmore
Age
1-5 years
I have a problem with the ice maker not making ice in my Kenmore elite which is out of warranty. I've tried to do some trouble shooting and repairs but to no avail. I'm hoping someone here might have some other suggestions.

First of all, the ice maker has occasionally stopped making ice in the past, but after a day or two it magically started working again. The last time this happened it never came back and it has been about a month since it stopped. I read through the forums and narrowed it down to (1) pump, (2) frozen line, (3) bad sensors.

I checked the sensors and saw no led light inside when holding the door switches.

To see if it was a frozen line I turned off the frig, emptied out the freezer section, and waited until it was fully at room temperature. I checked all the walls inside the freezer with my laser thermometer and all spots were above 60F. Then I turned the frig back on. Immediately, I heard the ice machine refilling itself with water. Then a while later it made a small amount of ice. I thought I did it! Then after that no more ice, even days later.

Given that it did make ice after this exercise I assumed that it wasn't a pump nor a frozen line. So, I thought it must be the sensors since I could see no light. I pulled the circuit boards and bought two new boards. When they arrive I installed both and I got the red led light back and constant. Perfect! For whatever reason, I then decided to unplug the frig. When I plugged it back in the red led light was off. I waited a couple hours, no red light, no ice.

Now what? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Philip
 

Jake

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Hi Philip,

Another member was having a similar problem here: FIXED: GSF26C4EXY02 Whirlpool Gold Ice Maker Problem

Look at his post #6 he found frayed and broken wires underneath the freezer door, I'd remove your kickplate and check for that first.

Also look for your tech data sheet behind the kickplate, it has the ice maker troubleshooting diagnostics in it.

If your wires are fine, then it's most likely a bad ice maker. You can verify that in the ice maker troubleshooting diagnostics.

Your Kenmore 106 is made by Whirlpool, this should be the same troubleshooting guide: Dropbox - W10687894 SXS Refrigerators in Door Ice Maker Troubleshooting Guide - March 2014.pdf

Here's the ice maker for your model:
WPW10251076 Icemaker


Let us know what you find.

Jake
 

grandinetti

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Thanks Jake, I followed procedure in the other thread. Taped the receiver door closed, Taped the door switch closed. Disconnected the ice maker connector and between the black/white wire and white wire I only see 34 VAC, not 120 VAC. Between J1-1 (red wire) and J1-3 (black/white wire) meter I get 14VDC. Gonna check the VAC black/white and white wire at the base next, but if that is 120 VAC should I start peeling back the wire loom at the bottom and looking for wire breaks?

Update: yes, it's 125 VAC at the base plug.

IMG_1805.jpg

Update: I don't see any visible signs of wire breaks.
IMG_1806.jpg
 
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Jake

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Ok,

Look on Page 6 of the Troubleshooting Guide I posted the link to above.

Reconnect the ice maker, then do Step 6: Initiate ice harvest. Testing: Remove the front cover of the icemaker to expose the test points on the module.

These test points can be used to test components and to initiate an ice harvest cycle: Check between test points L and N with a Voltmeter set to the appropriate AC scale and confirm the presence of 120 VAC to the icemaker. (If source voltage is present and the ice has reached harvest temperature the icemaker should cycle).

Then --->Do Initiating a Test Cycle with a jumper wire in test points T and H shown in Figure 5.

Let us know what happens.

Jake
 

grandinetti

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Thanks again Jake,

I reconnected the ice maker, popped off the right cover, and tested between L and N and only measured 34 VAC.

Before hooking it all back up, I checked continuity on the four wires from bottom to top and only had continuity on the black/white wire. The other three had no continuity. Unless there's a break further up behind the mesh I don't see it.
 

Jake

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Ok,

I'm not ignoring the 34 VAC, but I just want to make sure that it is NOT just a monitor voltage, because on some models with optics, low voltage is always present (except during a harvest).

--->Now Do Initiating a Test Cycle with a jumper wire in test points T and H shown in Figure 5.

Make sure you Tape the door on the receiver closed and don't block the beam. Also Tape the door switch closed.

Let us know what happens.

Jake
 

Jake

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I don't see any visible signs of wire breaks.
Before hooking it all back up, I checked continuity on the four wires from bottom to top and only had continuity on the black/white wire. The other three had no continuity. Unless there's a break further up behind the mesh I don't see it.
Did you remove all the mesh to make sure?

Its extremely rare to see a wire break inside the door.

Jake
 

grandinetti

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Okay, I followed the instructions to initiate the harvest with all door switches taped. Put the jumper between T and H, counted to 1006, and nothing happens.

Regarding continuity: I looked at all the exposed wire under the mesh and all was fine. The section closest to going into the door has white tape over it. I suppose I can remove the tape and look there.

Also, I didn't see 34 VAC anywhere on the tech data I found in the kickplate
 

grandinetti

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OK! I pulled back the white tape and there it was, and it's very close to where the wire enters the door.

IMG_1809.jpg

I guess I need to cut the black completely away to get at this. Any suggestions on how to proceed?

IMG_1810.jpg
 
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Jake

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OK! I pulled back the white tape and there it was, and it's very close to where the wire enters the door.
BINGO!!! Good find!!!


I guess I need to cut the black completely away to get at this. Any suggestions on how to proceed?
Yes, then do you have a wire stripper? You'll need to strip the wire insulation back a little bit, then solder the connections and use some heat shrink, like ljsmith1 did in post #6 of that thread.

Jake
 

grandinetti

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Yes, I had to remove all the wrappings as the cuts were pretty close to where the wires enter the door. All but one were cut.

IMG_1812.jpg

Ran to the hardware store, picked up some large and small heat shrink tubing. Stripped all the wires, and put the large heat shrink over all wires first, and then the smaller heat shrink tubings over each individual wire. Had to cut the only one that hadn't broke to get the large heat shrink over all of them.

Here it is

IMG_1813.jpg

Powered it all back and and still waiting to see if I get ice.

Seems like this is a serious design flaw, and shows how tricky it is to make a design with so many wires that need to flex every time the door opens and closes. Will try to avoid the ice machine in the door on my next frig.

Fingers crossed and hoping I'll see ice soon. Will update shortly.

Thanks again Jake.


Update: No ice after 36 minutes. Opened it all up and saw no water in ice maker. Popped the side off and checked voltage between L and N and got 120 VAC.

Put the jumper wire in test points T and H for 5 sec to start the test cycle, and the wheel started turning. So, I put it all back together. Removed the tape on the switches and closed the door. A few seconds later I heard the water dispense into the ice machine. So, looking good, expecting ice in about 1/2 hour.
 
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grandinetti

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Update: All is working, and we're making ice! Probably didn't need to buy the sensor boards, but still saved $$$ compared to if I called Sear repair. Thanks!
 

Jake

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Excellent, looks like you did a good job.:)

Glad to hear its making ice again.:)

Yes, some of these Kenmore 106 models made Whirlpool refrigerators never have this problem of the cut wires, and very few do, I don't know why, because if every single one had this same problem they would issue a recall, and our forum here would be flooded with people saying its happening to theirs too.

Thanks for the update!

Jake
 

Fireball26

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Virginia
Have a kenmore 106.56549400. No ice being made. No water in ice tray. Have done your LED check. Stays solid when I close the flap. Ejector arm rotates. Checked continuity on solenoid have roughly 280ish ohms on the water dispenser and a little less on the ice valve solenoid. I used weed eater string to go through tube and also blew through ice tube. All Sat. Checked for AC voltage at solenoid connection, only got about 4.8v Ac. Unless I had a bad connection. What’s my next step?
 

Fireball26

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Also found the spec sheet under the kick plate. Did the quick control board check by pressing in main door switch and pressing water dispenser and then ice dispenser for the main control board. Water dispenser had a good yellow light and ice maker had no lights. So ice maker water valve to control board is bad somewhere. Still don’t know if that points to ice maker or wiring issue or bad valve
 

Jake

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Hi,

Checked for AC voltage at solenoid connection, only got about 4.8v Ac.
Did you force cycle the ice maker and wait towards the end of the cycle while continuing to watch your meter for 120 volts?

To do a forced harvest, you first have to unplug your refrigerator for 5 minutes then plug it in, then hold the door light switch in and tape the flapper door closed (on the left side) , then you can jump V&N for water flow check. And also you can jump T&H and that will start your ice maker motor into a cycle. Don't leave the jumper wire in more than 7 seconds when you do that.

Make a jumper wire, an insulated piece of wire ( 14 gauge) with the ends of the wire bare approx 1/2".

Here's the ice maker for your model:
2198597 Complete Icemaker Assembly (8 Cube)


Let us know what you find.

Jake
 
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