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FIXED 106.51182113 Kenmore Coldspot Defrost Selection choice


Premium Member
Dec 5, 2022
Model Number
Sears Kenmore
6-10 years
I have a coldspot 106.51182113 fridge, and I am sure it is not defrosting, rather than unplug it and wait......and wait......
I saw a video on the Diagnostics from the front panel by pressing the Water/Ice & Light buttons for 3 sec countdown.
Then cycle to the Defrost diag. and there are two choices using the ADC or 8 hr selection.... This was a Kitchenaid video but the front panel was the same.... almost...
I tried to get into the diag mode and success..... But I do not have the Diag service codes as I cycle thru each setting so of course I am going thru blindly
and abandoned quickly to stay out of trouble...
Note: I am an electrical design engineer, so working on these are nothing new, but with no docs. well... that is an issue...

Just to understand the service diags better is there a link to this info anywhere so I can review.
I would like to try a force defrost to see if all the components are working, but as usualy I fear the defrost ckt may need replacing. No biggie, just want to
get this fixed asap of course....and the location of all those suspect parts I want to understand before I empty the Fridge and the wife is now in defrost mod.... :) Love ya honey !

This problem seems to be one of those common issues, We have frozen items lower in the freezer and melting icecream at the top! welll almost melted....
Funny the wife can put an ice tray on the second shelf and it does freeze ice... but takes some time...
Also I beleive the motor runs constantly.... it may turn off, but I have not heard that, as the wife is in and out of the box as needed.... not excessive...

Also doesn't the Service codes come with the Refrig, tucked somewhere underneath or on the back?

Thanks to all who participate here, it is really great community of folks...
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Hi Chuck, I'm attaching your tech. data sheet below. You should also have a copy of it either behind the bottom kickplate or underneath the refrigerator door upper hinge cover.

Do Step 6 where its says DEFROST HEATER/BI-METAL in the tech. data sheet on page 1. Then feel for heat at the bottom of your inside freezer back panel, where the vents are at.

(click to enlarge)
Screenshot 2022-12-05 17.17.20.png


  • W10336426 - Rev E (1).pdf
    747.4 KB · Views: 67
Step 7 is your Defrost Mode Selection.
Ok performed step #6, indicator flashes 01 BIMetal Closed
waited 4 mins No Change
exited service mode...
Is this pointing to the heater rod ?
Is so... then forced defrost mode is useless unless until fixed....

Where do all the folks buy these parts...
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I'd first ohm test the defrost heater to verify that, watch this video:

Here's the defrost heater for your model, if needed:
Heater W10857624

If your defrost heater ohms good, then the control board is the culprit.

Here's the control board for your model, if needed:
Electronic Control Board WPW10235503
Ok not a problem....
One other question....
Is the heater rod , in the freezer section on the back wall ?
Assuming I have to pull the panel for access to it !

is it good practice to just replace the thermostate / Bi-Metal sensor ?

thanks for the help
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Yes, the defrost heater is behind the back panel inside the freezer, you will see it going around the sides and bottom of your evaporator coil. Make sure you unplug the refrigerator first!

Yours should be similar to this video:

is it good practice to just replace the thermostat / Bi-Metal sensor ?
If its bad yes, but it should closed, and that would be good. But you can verify it by ohm testing it, watch the video below.

Here it is for your model: Defrost Thermostat WPW10225581

Very good , another task on my honey-do list...
appreciate the help..
Will post back with results
Ok Chuck, sounds good.:)
I need to order the Heater and Thermostat,
are there specific part numbers for my model 106.51182113
Ok update !
Opened the Refrig yesterday and the thing was dry, no ice build up.....as I figured since it was not getting cold.
tried to test the Thermostat in Ice Water but I believe it needs to be below freezing so that testing did not work, tried it on the NEW thermostat also same results.... open...
so the typical ice was not cold enough to close the contacts..

Did not test the defrost heater, as when I checked, I could only hear the compressor fan running.
the compressor never did turn on...
Now it was running for a while back and was cool, not cold then this last week it completely stopped getting cold....
I have to assume the compressor is bad, which means the unit is scrap metal..... ugh.... and I spent 3 hours cleaning and detailing the inside while I had it open....
I know it may be the control board but most likely not I am assuming....
I have not opened the back yet to look at the control board, I know sometimes there are embedded fuses that can be un-soldered and replaced....
So for now I have to assume it is dead....and will most likely need to buy a new one...
shame to it is in like new condition, but a local guy estimated about $900 to replace the compressor and another $ I can get a decent unit on sale...

anyway.....this may be the end of the journey....
thanks for the help.....
Update .... again..
Changed the freezer thermostat
Checked defrost heater rod, 30ohms, so good... ( have a new one it measured the same )
Freezer fan is running
Evaporator fan is running
Changed Compressor Relay/Cap module.

Went into diagnostics mode:
3) TEST EVAPORTOR FAN MOTOR & BAFFLE MOTOR 01 (fan ok, air baffle Open )
4) Compressor Condenser fan motor 01 (ON)
here is where it gets stuck.
When the test starts, I hear the compressor relay click 4 times
then the display stops..... if I press the advance button it just beeps.....
end of my testing.
So seems not to get past test 4.

Also when I plug in the power to the frig, I hear the 4 click on the compressor, assuming the relay,
the the condensor fan moter turns on

Is it possible that the compressor is just plain bad,
I think I am looking at about $800 to replace it.

Additional... Measured the Compressor Coils
Across both 10hms as expectec

is it possible for the compressor piston to wear out and fail,
the unit is 12 years old..

thoughts for those with experience :)

at this point it is a head scratcher..'
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Changed Compressor Relay/Cap module.
Yes Chuck, if you already replaced the compressor start relay, then the compressor is worn out and won't start anymore.

is it possible for the compressor piston to wear out and fail,
the unit is 12 years old..
Exactly, they can go out anytime after 10 years old.
thanks Jake..
A twist to this story...
Decided to plug in the refrig last night and let it run for a while...
the main compartment got cold , not cold enough but noticeable...
Put my hand on the compressor it was warm and running..
Opened the freezer and the coils were still warm and the Fan was not running
after about 5 hrs
the Freezer was a little cool the coils were not warm but not cold and the fan was running...

Unplugged and pulled the control board, will check the on-board relays today....

I think this box is screwing with my head :) easy to do !
Ok Chuck, that still indicates a sealed system problem, because even if the compressor started running the entire evaporator coil in the freezer should have a thin layer of from on them from top to bottom.

Look at the very bottom photo below where it says NORMAL FROST PATTERN.

Frost Patterns.jpg
Hey.....Yea I wish :)
the coils are clean and like new not even frosty..... only cool maybe 60F at best I can measure but this would be close....

Q: Sears Kenmore 106.51182113, this is a side by side with ice maker in the door.
I noticed that the coils are in both compartments Freezer and Food section.
Does this system have directional valves for the Freon to each compartment?

Inside each side by side unit on the wall is a temp Sensor I am assuming a thermistor....NTC or similiar.....
I want to check these but need to find the specs to get the correct ohms per the ambient temp ....
Does this system have directional valves for the Freon to each compartment?
Yes, look here:
thanks Jake
I am still working this issue...
BUT I did notice that the refrig section coils have a thermistor taped to it....
I will need to test this, I missed it when I opened it up and cleaned the inside.
This side, as I have read in other posts seems to RUST, the bottom plate. I makes a mess
I wonder if the drain hose is blocked, will try to snake it with some weedwacker filament....

To date:
Tested the FC thermistor, 8.2K in a glass of ice.. CHECK Has Black wires
Tested via the front panel the RF thermistor.... 01 =ok need to test in ice water still, but suspect it is ok
I did notice it is a different part number than the freezer. Has White wires
Replaced the Freezer coil thermostat
Tried another control board... same results = no cold
Compressor fan - operational
Freezer fan - turns on.. operational

To day with the new ctrl board, I had the system running about 20 minutes,
I decided to pull the cover off the FC(freezer) thermistor, and get it ready to cut out and test.
As I moved the thermistor, I heard gasses spraying in the freezer side coils, then stopped.
Being an electrical engineer for 40 yrs I get the coincidence factor when fudging with these things..
so I moved it around a bit more and nothing.. not surprized.
Turned off power, tested thermistor as mentioned above .... good..

for my next venture....
Check Power supply V levels.....

Q; Is there a Mechanical drawing of the Kenmore side by sides that show equipment placement
and the plumbing for the Freezer and Frig coils and valves...

This is now become a hobby so it seems :)

The fact that I heard the compressor gass spraying into the coils was hopeful....
Possibly a good compressor and the freon pressure may be ok...
I am missing something simple so it may seem...

the unit has been running for 2 hours and the small freon feed line to the feeezer coils is ice cold
yet the coils are not cold, only cool....
will let it run tonight and check, as I read it can take 4- 24 hours to actually cool to temp...
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