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106.51183112 Kenmore elite cool but not cold

no cold Brent

Premium Member
Joined
Oct 1, 2022
Messages
7
Location
Minneapolis
Model Number
106.51183112
Brand
Sears Kenmore
Age
6-10 years
Looking for a little help as I am only a shade tree mechanic... I have a Kenmore Elite Coldspot side by side that has been gradually warming up over the past week. Freezer currently only pulls down to 10F and occasionally reaches as high as 20F even though the set point is -5F. Fridge also hovers around 43F with the set point at 33F. I have thoroughly cleaned the condenser coil and evap coil.

Both the condenser and evap coil fans are running correctly. Condenser is running and only feels warm to the touch and I hear a gurgling when I unplug the unit so I am assuming there is sufficient coolant. When I check the temp of the cold air coming into the freezer, I have seen as low as -1F.

Could it potentially be a thermocouple that has started to fail? Is that an item I can replace with standard tools or do I need an experienced technician? Thanks for the help and please ask any questions!
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
136,047
Location
Vicksburg Junction, Arizona
Hi,

Yes, your tech. data sheet should be located behind the bottom kickplate grille or underneath the upper refrigerator door hinge cover.

I'm attaching it below for your model.

Do you notice frost build-up on the back panel inside the freezer?

Jake
 

Attachments

  • serviceandwiringsheet-w10336426-reve.pdf
    743.5 KB · Views: 52

no cold Brent

Premium Member
Joined
Oct 1, 2022
Messages
7
Location
Minneapolis
Thanks Jake! I ran through the diagnostics and didnt see anything unusual. I unplugged the unit while opened and inspected the evap coils in both the refrigerator and freezer. There was a little ice on the freezer evap coil that melted as the unit warmed.

I plugged it back in now and the freezer appears to be working great but the fridge temp is ranging from 40F to 50F and the evap fan is cycling on and off rather than running consistently to pull the fridge down to the 33F set point.

The temp on the evap coil is approximately 45F when I last checked. I'm wondering whether I have a temp sensor going out or a circuit board? Might be starting to get in over my head...
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
136,047
Location
Vicksburg Junction, Arizona
the evap fan is cycling on and off rather than running consistently to pull the fridge down to the 33F set point.
Possibly a bad refrigerator evaporator fan motor.

That evaporator fan motor should be running constantly till it gets to your set temperature.

Here's that refrigerator section evaporator fan motor for your model: W10451901 Motor-Evap

You can test the voltage to it from the control board.

P7-9(gray wire) to P7-10(red wire) should be a CONSTANT 14 volts DC. You can use a multimeter to see if you get a CONSTANT 14 volts DC, if so and that fan cycling like that, then that fan motor is bad.

The control is in the very back of the refrigerator, once you pull the refrigerator out from the wall, you will see a cover over it, just remove that cover.

Here's the control board for your model:
Electronic Control Board WPW10235503


Jake
 

no cold Brent

Premium Member
Joined
Oct 1, 2022
Messages
7
Location
Minneapolis
I checked P7-9(gray wire) to P7-10(red wire) and it is just under a constant 1V DC and the fridge is 50F. I am thinking it must be the control board then? Thanks again Jake!
 

no cold Brent

Premium Member
Joined
Oct 1, 2022
Messages
7
Location
Minneapolis
Somehow, the refrigerator fan just kicked in again at 14 volts DC and brought the fridge down to 35F but then shut off and now my fridge is back to 48F and it is no longer running.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
136,047
Location
Vicksburg Junction, Arizona
Was the refrigerator running when you did that volt test? Was the refrigerator door closed too? If so, and you got just under a constant 1V DC, then its the control board you will need to fix it.

Jake
 

no cold Brent

Premium Member
Joined
Oct 1, 2022
Messages
7
Location
Minneapolis
Unfortunately, I replaced the control board and the refrigerator and freezer are both back to running warm. The compressor seems to be running nearly all the time and the freezer evap fan is on nearly all of the time but the freezer is only cooling down to about 20F. The refrigerator evap fan only runs periodically and cools the fridge down to about 38 but then it warms back up to low 50's. The walls inside the fridge are wet. It doesnt seem that either the freezer or fridge are acting correctly and the new control board didnt improve it. Any other thoughts? Thanks again!
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
136,047
Location
Vicksburg Junction, Arizona
I checked P7-9(gray wire) to P7-10(red wire) and it is just under a constant 1V DC and the fridge is 50F. I am thinking it must be the control board then?
That's what I was going by, are you absolutely sure you read meter your meter correctly? P7-9(gray wire) to P7-10(red wire) should be a CONSTANT 14 volts DC.

Was the refrigerator running when you did that volt test? Was the refrigerator door closed too?

With the freezer only cooling to 20 degrees now, its possibly a sealed system problem, which will effect both evaporator coils.

Look at the very bottom photo below where it says NORMAL FROST PATTERN.

Frost Patterns.jpg
 

no cold Brent

Premium Member
Joined
Oct 1, 2022
Messages
7
Location
Minneapolis
Here is a picture of my freezer evap coil.
IMG_6559.jpg
Since only the lower part of the coil is frosted, I am thinking the system has leaked and doesnt have enough coolant. Thinking I need to have it charged? Thanks again!
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
136,047
Location
Vicksburg Junction, Arizona
Yes, you have a sealed system problem.

The sealed system consists of the compressor, condenser, evaporator, heat exchanger, filter/drier and refrigerant.

Common problems with a sealed system are bad compressors, refrigerant leaks, and system restrictions.

Its best to have a Sears tech come out and see which it is.

Unfortunately, we don't teach sealed system repair online, its best left to the pros like Rick said here too:

Jake
 
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