106.51332710 Kenmore Refrigerator still wont make ice

pollytait

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Aug 18, 2019
Messages
6
Location
Wilmington
Model Number
106.51332710
Brand
Sears Kenmore
Age
1-5 years
I've been pouring over this forum for days trying to figure out why My icemaker stopped making ice after making it perfectly for the past year. Icemaker stopped making ice so we tried a few things. Ice tray fill tube seemed frosted over and was a little ice clogged so we melted it with a hairdryer replaced the solenoid with one recommended by appliancePartsPros. Got three trays in 24 hours then nothing. I heard the solenoid buzz twice in the past few hours but no water from fill tube into ice cube tray. Just checked fill tube for ice and it looks clear. If I fill the cube tray manually it will freeze and dump into the bin. Replaced the water filter in the past few days but no change. Our water pressure is great and the water dispenser works just fine. Don’t know the temp of freezer but food is well frozen. Both switches (in pic) behind bin test fine. Why would a brand new solenoid work for a few trays then nothing? What can I try next? TIA.--

Rick suggested I get another solenoid, which I did, from appliancepartspros. We installed that one, melted the residual water in the fill tube with a hairdryer and got ice for a day. Then frozen again. So I warmed up the fill tube again and put layers of foam insulation around the fill tube and surrounding area. We get ice for 1-2 weeks then nothing. Solenoid buzzes but water does not come out of fill tube. I warmed it up again and then ice for another 1-2 weeks, then nothing. Warming up the tube is the only thing that works, but its very short lived even with all the insulation we have added. I replied to the post again and Rick responded:

"I did a little investigating on this and I didn't find find any service bulletins that addressed that particular problem. After reading your last post it reminded me of a similar problem I had a while back with a fill tube heater. When I first looked up your model it didn't show a fill tube heater. Unfortunately I don't have the tech sheet for that exact model so I looked at the tech sheet for a similar model. 106.51132***. That model does have a fill tube heater so now I'm thinking, so does yours. On the dispenser board if you have a wire located at J2-1 and J2-8, you have a fill tube heater. The output voltage for the heater is 14 VDC. If the meter doesn't indicate 14 VDC the dispenser board would be the cause. If your meter indicates 14 VDC the fill tube heater would be the problem. If you don't have a wire at J2-1 or J2-8 you do not have a fill tube heater. "

Today we removed the dispenser board and the wire harnesses plugged in at places labeled J3-B and J1.1-B. Do you think I have a fill tube heater?

Thanks in advance for all of your help!
 

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Dan O.

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If you are having repeated fill tube freezing closed, has anyone looked at the water valve on the house water pipe?

Appliance water fill valves need adequate water pressure to them to close tightly. Often the water valve at the other end of the line (where it attaches to the house plumbing) can be responsible for reduced water pressure to the appliance. That reduced pressure can allow water to seep through the appliance's water valve and result in water seeping through. Those trickles can easily freeze in the fill tube, eventually building up to a total blockage.

Check to make sure a 'self-piercing' saddle valve was not installed on the house water pipe and the valve only mounted on the side of a vertical pipe or the top of a horizontal pipe. If any type of saddle valve (drill or self-piercing!) is mounted on the underside of a pipe, lime and scale can build up in that valve's aperture partially clogging it and thus reducing flow rate through it.

If yours is mounted on the underside of a house water pipe, I suggest it be changed regardless. Only a drill-type saddle valve should be used (if not a regular plumbing tap) and not mounted on the underside of a pipe.



Also, make sure the water line to the fridge hasn't gotten kinked which could also reduce water pressure to the appliance.

Dan O.
 

pollytait

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Aug 18, 2019
Messages
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Location
Wilmington
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The fridge Waterline has been tapped into the copper pipes shown in the first picture then the PVC pipe takes a 90° turn and continues up underneath and through the floor to the fridge.

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This waterline installation is new as of 2018 December When we had a full kitchen renovation and The ice maker problems started a few months later. Prior to December and The renovation of this icemaker worked perfectly.
 

Dan O.

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I'm not familiar with the type of tubing that was used. I don't know if it might be part of the problem.

Copper tubing is usually recommended except when connected to a RO water filtration system, then PVC is necessary.
 

pollytait

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Messages
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Location
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I went back under the house to take a couple more pictures. There does seem to be some corrosion, again this was only installed nine months ago. Also I believe this is PEX, not PVC if that makes a difference, connected into the existing copper pipes. Could that corrosion at the connection be an issue? Is that sharp 90° turn and issue? Could any of these be affecting the water pressure?
Thank you!
 

pollytait

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Wilmington
Also we do not have a RO Water filtration system. I’m not sure why The Plumber used PEX instead of just copper. Maybe it will help if we get rid of the PEX and put in copper?
 

Dan O.

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I've not seen that material used but I'm not a plumber either. I don't know if its installation would cause reduced water pressure to the valve and contribute to your I/M water line freezing. If you've tried everything else short of modifying the appliance design, I might suggest it be changed to a more conventional water line first to see if it helps.


If a RO softener was in use, some sort of plastic lines should be used. I don't know if the actual material is important. I've just been told RO filtered water can react with metal water lines resulting in 'metal' tasting dispensed water.

Dan O.
 

pollytait

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Location
Wilmington
Originally Rick asked me to post pics of the dispenser board to see if you had a fill tube heater. Does it look like we have one?
 

Dan O.

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Are there wires connected to J2-1 and J2-8? I don't even see a connector labeled J2 in your pics. I only see a J1 and J3.


pollytait said:
On the dispenser board if you have a wire located at J2-1 and J2-8, you have a fill tube heater... If you don't have a wire at J2-1 or J2-8 you do not have a fill tube heater
 

pollytait

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Location
Wilmington
Correct , it only has wires connected at J 1 and J 3, so no heater wire. I’m beginning to think the flow has been reduced by the plumbing configuration and/or possibly the corrosion that appears on the copper. Do u think the corrosion could be affecting flow? Could there be a tiny leak causing the corrosion, not enough to cause a visible drip, but just a tiny leak that could be affecting the flow?
 

Dan O.

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pollytait said:
Do u think the corrosion could be affecting flow?
I doubt it. If it's anything, it's likely the material and/or the connectors used, especially the "T" and elbows.

Could there be a tiny leak causing the corrosion,
Part looks like solder, part looks like electrolysis like happens from 2 dissimilar metal in contact with each other. A minuscule water leak wouldn't likely affect water flow rate.

JMO
 
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