106.56982601 Kenmore Refrigerator won't dispense ice

[tecweasel]

Model Number

106.56982601

Brand

Sears Kenmore

Age

More than 10 years

I have replaced the main board at the ice maker dispenser twice now.

Original one fried. First one I put in the button to change crushed/cubed never worked. pressing the ice dispensing switch made it turn literally 1 time. water worked, lights worked, other buttons worked.

just replaced the board again. same thing. before putting the board in and sealing it up I connected everything and same issue. turned ice dispenser so i powered it off and completed the install thinking it was a bad first board.

now i hear the click, light comes on but the dispenser never turns/engages. it did literally once this time. the crushed/cubed button doesn't work either. didn't initially before putting back together but it's on cubed and i don't care if that button works. water works and dispenses. light and lock buttons work. i checked the continuity on both switches on the boards, new and old, and both switches work properly. no signal flows until depressed then signal flows.

Thank you for any suggestions.

 

[Jake]

This model is very notorious for broken/frayed wires, where the wire harness goes into the bottom of the freezer door(or top of freezer door), that will cause no/low power problems to the ice/water dispenser and/or auger motor.

(click to enlarge)


--->Lots of members have found frayed and broken wires causing the auger motor or ice maker to be dead. Remove your bottom kickplate grille, Remove the black wire harness loom too, broken wires can be underneath it.

Another member was having a similar problem here: FIXED: GSF26C4EXY02 Whirlpool Gold Ice Maker Problem Look at his post #6 he found frayed and broken wires underneath the freezer door.

Here's another one with the same thing about the frayed and broken wires: FIXED: 106.51173310 Kenmore elite ice maker not working - no led light

Here's another: FIXED: Whirlpool WSF26C2EXF01 Door Icemaker Not Working

Let us know what you find.

Jake

 

[tecweasel]

Thank you Jake. I'll check that out and let you know. Would not even have thought to look there. Figured it was something with the control board.

 

[Jake]

Ok, let us know what you find.

Jake

 

[tecweasel]

Jake,

I looked at the links to the other posts you sent. This fridge has the wiring on the top left instead of coming out of the bottom like the others I saw. I removed the plastic cap to show the wires coming out of the hole from the door and to the connector harness. Only 1 wire had a slight sign of wear on it. The jacket has a bend mark but is completely intact. I powered off the fridge, unplugged the harness to inspect the connectors and re-plugged. Same results. Pressing the ice handle turns the light on but does not engage the auger/motor and make the ice come out. Should I look at taking the panel off the inside of the door? Is that even possible or advisable?

 

[Jake]

Ok good!

I'm attaching your tech. data sheet below.

At the dispenser control board--->On Pin 3(blue wire) to Pin 12(white wire) you should get 120 volts when you press the ice dispenser lever.

Here's the dispenser control board for your model, but it has been discontinued:

Whirlpool WP2319768 Electronic Control Board (AP6007298) - AppliancePartsPros.com

Electronic Control Board WP2319768 / AP6007298 made by Whirlpool

click.linksynergy.com

Here's the auger motor for your model:
WP2188242 Ice Dispenser Motor


Jake

 

[tecweasel]

How would you suggest testing if I am getting 120 volts? I understand using a volt meter but not sure where you are suggesting I should test. Remove the outer cover and test on the board while it's plugged up? Test at the connector above after disconnecting it? Should I post a picture of my wires at the top? Thank you for your assistance.

 

[Jake]

At the dispenser control board--->On Pin 3(blue wire) to Pin 12(white wire) you should get 120 volts when you press the ice dispenser lever.

Remove the outer cover and test on the board while it's plugged up?

Yes.

Test at the connector above after disconnecting it?

At those Pins on the board.

Should I post a picture of my wires at the top?

If they are not broken or frayed, then they should be fine.

Jake

 

[tecweasel]

I can take the outer piece off to expose the board. Not sure where to test as I can't "translate" the schematic you sent to the board. I don't know which pin is #1 then left to right etc. I have included a picture of the old board, note the damage, both front and back. I THINK you are referring to the pins by the white connector. They are not inline as shown on the schematic/diagram. Could you please instruct me at to which pin is 1, 2, 3 etc. There are 12 on the white connector and only 10 on the black. I can count HA! Thanks Jake!

 

[Jake]

You found the problem already, the burnt dispenser board in your photos you just posted.

Unfortunately the factory does not make your dispenser board anymore.

Jake

 

[tecweasel]

That picture is for reference only. That is the OLD board as I mentioned. Wanted you to show me what pins are where. I have purchased a "refurbed" board already and installed it. My apologies if I wasn't clear about the picture being the old known bad one. This problem is with the "refurbed" boards I have replaced the OLD bad one with. Thank you!

 

[Jake]

Ok, I wasn't aware of that.

Then you will still need to do the voltage test I posted above on the refurb board.

Jake

 

[tecweasel]

If you could describe based on the pictures I uploaded, or put a arrow, circle etc. on the picture then I can test the board. I do not understand which one of the pins is 3 or 12. I need you to point these out to me based on the pictures I provided. While I can follow the diagram you provided to get to the white connector, the diagram only shows it in a single row not 2 rows as the actual connector is attached to the board. If I need to ask this differently or describe more please let me know. Thank you.

 

[Jake]

Go by the color of the wires where they connect to the board connector pins.

At the dispenser control board--->On Pin 3(blue wire) to Pin 12(white wire) you should get 120 volts when you press the ice dispenser lever.

Jake

 

[tecweasel]

Thank you for pointing out the obvious! I have not taken the front off yet to test as that will require 2 people to hold and test for me to accomplish. I did however follow the diagram and attempt to test by placing a paperclip into the white and blue wires at the coupler and then connecting it to a volt meter. when i did this i got no voltage when pressing the ice release lever. the light did come on. i mistakenly went past the 200v ac setting and it stopped on the setting for testing continuity - it did have continuity before pressing the lever, didn't try it with power on or by depressing the lever. pic attached. if this is not adequate to test as you have instructed please let me know and i open it up and test on the board itself when i get another set of hands.

 

[Jake]

You have to volt test it at the dispenser board itself.

At the dispenser control board--->On Pin 3(blue wire) to Pin 12(white wire) you should get 120 volts when you press the ice dispenser lever.

Jake

 

[tecweasel]

Just tried and no voltage. on the back of the board the white wire is the bottom left "pin" and the blue is the top row third from the left. traced from the wires coming into the harness as you suggested.

 

[Jake]

Ok, then its a bad dispenser board.

Jake

 

[tecweasel]

By bad board you mean the one I tested? the one that acutes the water and ice to start?

 

[Jake]

Yes.

Jake