106.64269400 Kenmore Coldspot Refrigerator dripping water from freezer

[Norm_Shea]

Model Number

106.64269400

Brand

Sears Kenmore

Age

More than 10 years

I have a Kenmore Coldspot, Model # 106.64269400 that is intermittently dripping water into the refrigerator from the freezer. I know this has been discussed here previously and I have verified that the drain line is clear. I have run the entire length of it with a cleaning device and, when not iced up, water readily passes through it into the pan. But after 3-4 days, the drain hole will freeze over and the dripping resumes.

I have tested the continuity of the heater and that seems fine. And I do get the periodic dripping so I'm assuming that means the heater is coming on at some point. Can a heater lose effectiveness and, even though shows continuity, not be getting hot enough?

I've read in other posts about the thermostat; could that be bad and preventing the heater from running as long as it should? And is that thermostat located in the control box in the ceiling of the refrigerator or is there a separate one for the freezer?

One other item that is puzzling, the left side of the unit, right at the separation of the fridge and freezer, is very hot to the touch. That same area on the front body of the freezer is also very hot. Is there some refrigerant line that runs through there?

Thanks for any input anyone can provide.

 

[rickgburton]

Let’s start with the hot spots. You’re correct. There are refrigerant lines there but they shouldn’t be hot. Make sure the coils under the machine are clean and there’s no dust and/or pet hair build up blocking the air flow. Make sure the condensor fan motor is working. Compressing any gas increases its temperature so it’s pumped into the condensor where it cools and condenses back to a liquid. The first or last pass of the condensor coils is the Yoder loop in front to keep the doors from freezing shut. If the coils are blocked or the fan isn’t working the gas remains hot going thru the coils.

The blocked drain is just a bad design. I’ve seen this many, many times. This kit should fix the problem.

The aluminum strap is fixed to the element and extends about an inch into the drain hole:

Whirlpool 819043 Heat-Probe (AP3119957) - AppliancePartsPros.com

Heat - probe 819043 / AP3119957 made by Whirlpool

click.linksynergy.com

 

[Norm_Shea]

Thank you so much for the great advice. I'd cleaned the coils underneath about a month ago but it was kinda a cursory attempt with just a shop vac stuck under there. This time I checked things out with a flashlight and noted quite a bit of dust that was adhered pretty tightly to the coils. I got the air compressor and was able to get it cleaned off pretty well then went back in with a vacuum with a bristle brush on the end and removed the remaining. Once the fridge was plugged back in it was quite the difference, the warmth on the side and front was barely detectable.

I really like the drain hole heater kit idea, too. I'm not sure how this would work with the heating element I have, https://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Defrost-Heater-Assembly/WP2315530/1175560. I was thinking I might be able to fabricate something similar. Does the aluminum tube fit down inside the existing drain hole?

And a question about the heating element; I'm sure it depends on how the fridge is being used but about how often does the heating element kick on? While the element was showing continuity, I wasn't getting any kind of reading inside the other half of the plug (on the fridge side). Is that just because it was not "on" at the time or should there be some type of voltage irregardless (I'm thinking not or it would be "on" then).

Thanks again.

 

[rickgburton]

You shouldn’t be checking for continuity with the machine plugged in. Hope that answers your last question.