110.22852100 Kenmore 80 Series Wont Stop Filling (AGAIN)

Piratewilly

Premium Member
Joined
May 18, 2018
Messages
2
Location
California
Model Number
110.22852100
Brand
Sears Kenmore
Age
More than 10 years
Is it time to put it out to pasture?

The washer was working fine one night, next morning its like it had a catastrophic failure.

Overflowed, flooded everything.

Little research and found its kinda common for this model.

I checked the clear plastic tube to the pressure switch, it had come undone. connected it back up. Still not working.

Thought maybe it got pinched or came loose at the drum, pulled it apart and its hooked up fine. Blew through the hose to see if maybe it was clogged, the hose isn't clogged.

Put it back together, turned it on, water still comes out and won't stop.

Do a little more research.

Found a way to check the water inlet valve solenoid.

I turn it on, water comes out. I unplug the power, water still comes out. Ok, its got a bad water inlet valve.

Ordered new water inlet valve 285805, install it. Turn on the washer, starts to fill, I unplug the power from the wall. The water shuts off. Ok, problem solved, right?

Nope. Still overflows.

The only thing left for it to be would be the Water level pressure switch right?

It just seems odd that the hose would come unplugged, the water inlet valve solenoid and the water pressure switch would all go bad right at the same time. Am I just starting to look at a money pit of problems?

My local dealer wants 70 dollars for the switch and I already spent 40 on the valve, is it worth it to just get the switch and hope nothing else goes wrong with it or is it time to replace the washer?



Another problem it has is when it is coming out of a spin cycle it BANGS super loud, not like several bangs as its coming to a stop, but a single loud BANG so loud it will wake u up from a deep sleep from the other side of the house and physically shift the washer. Could this have broken something?
 

rickgburton

Appliance Tech - Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Jul 11, 2006
Messages
35,580
Location
Murray, Utah 84107, United States
The only thing left for it to be would be the Water level pressure switch right?
Take the hose off the tub, start the fill cycle and blow into the hose. Does the water turn off?? Block one end of the hose and blow into it. Check for any pin hole leaks. The replacement switch comes with a new hose. Normally you just get the switch Maybe they know something we don't.
Pressure Switch W10339326
Pressure-Switch-W10339326--01875883.jpg

It just seems odd that the hose would come unplugged, the water inlet valve solenoid and the water pressure switch would all go bad right at the same time....
I agree, that's some bad mojo!

...but a single loud BANG so loud it will wake u up
Clutch, the brake cam driver is worn and the tab on the clutch snaps the brake cam driver.
Clutch 285785
Clutch-285785-01200106.jpg


Whirlpool direct drive washers are one of the best machines ever made. They're easy to diagnose and repair. The parts prices are reasonable. When they're working right they last a long time as long as you don't overload it. I have two machine.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
103,414
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Hi,

Yes, the water inlet valve was definity bad.

Now I've seen that water pressure switch hose come off either the water pressure switch nipple or the outer tub air chamber nipple. When I find it has come off either one, I use a very small clamp to sure it back on either nipple.

But you have to make sure no water is in the tub when you blow through that water pressure switch hose as you blow down through the outer tub air chamber nipple.

If you blow into the water level pressure switch nipple you should hear a click sound, do you hear it?


Another problem it has is when it is coming out of a spin cycle it BANGS super loud, not like several bangs as its coming to a stop, but a single loud BANG so loud it will wake u up from a deep sleep from the other side of the house and physically shift the washer. Could this have broken something?
The problem is the brake assembly on the basket drive part has worn out and causing that bang.

Here is the basket drive/brake assembly for your model you can order(Video Included):
W10820043 Basktdrive


Jake
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
103,414
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
If you can please post a video of that bang noise after the spin cycle, then upload it to Youtube and post the Youtube link here, that would be good.

I know Rick posted the clutch assembly for that bang noise, and I posted the basket drive/brake assembly, so hearing your washer in the video would help us to determine which it is.

When I worked for Sears, I heard a lot of banging after the spin, and 99% of the time it was the basket drive/brake assembly.

Jake
 
Last edited:

Piratewilly

Premium Member
Joined
May 18, 2018
Messages
2
Location
California
i will once the washer starts working again. it wont continue to any of its wash cycles because it thinks it has no water in it and just continues to keep filling.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
103,414
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Did you do what Rick and I suggested for the water level pressure switch?

Jake
 

gwydionjhr

Member
Joined
Jun 26, 2019
Messages
1
Location
Victoria, BC, Canada
Now I've seen that water pressure switch hose come off either the water pressure switch nipple or the outer tub air chamber nipple. When I find it has come off either one, I use a very small clamp to sure it back on either nipple.
I think I've had this happen 3 times in the last ten years with our washer. When you say "I use a very small clamp", are we talking a standard worm gear stainless clamp? The nipple on the switch is tapered without any flaring. I'm concerned the clamp might exacerbate the problem.
 
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