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FIXED 110.23034102. Kenmore (2003): Starts to spin, then stops, gearcase & clutch just replaced.

Rick8989

Premium Member
Joined
Nov 12, 2019
Messages
8
Location
Chester, VA
Model Number
110.23034102
Brand
Sears Kenmore
Age
More than 10 years
Hi Everyone,

We bought this machine new in 2003. I have made a few repairs along the way. Recently, it would fail to start to spin intermittently.

I just replaced the gearcase, clutch assy, and coupler. All with Whirlpool brand parts from Sears Parts Direct.

Since replacing them: Now, the machine will start to spin, and stop. It will sit there quietly for 60-90 seconds, then it will attempt to spin again. Sometimes, it will continue to do this. Sometimes it will spin on the 2nd or 3rd attempt.

There are a few things that are different with this new gearcase:
1. It is a little noisier when it agitates.
2. It is a lot noisier when it pumps the water out.
3. When it does this "attempt to spin:" It starts slowly, and I hear a click,click,click for about 4-5 times. I never heard that with the old gearcase installed.
4. When it fails to spin-up: It seems to start spinning slowly.
5. When I open and closed the lid, or stop and stop the timer, when it should be spinning:
A. Sometimes it has no effect, and it still sits quietly.
B. Sometimes it will engage hard and spin-up quickly like it used too (without any of the click, click, click sound).

I am washing the same size (and different size) loads just like I used too.

I don't think I'm hitting any imbalance limits.
When it starts to spin, and then quits: It's almost like it's triggering a thermal or electrical overload. I say that because of the time delay - then it attempts to spin again.

Simply FYI: I understand the sequence of operation and am a good troubleshooter.

Again, I replaced the gearcase because I knew the gearcase would intermittently not go into spin at all. It would just sit there. I understand how that operation works. I replaced the clutch assy, and coupler while I was dong this as I knew they were old.

Because of the click, click, click I hear (every time) when it starts to spin, and then fails. And it doesn't do that when it does engage properly. And because I never heard that sound prior to this. And the new gearcase is noisy: Is this brand new gearcase the defective part?

Or, has something else come into play since I manhandled the machine?

Thank you for your help.
Rick
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
112,971
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Yes Rick, it sounds like a defective gearcase, when I used to work at Sears as a tech, it was not uncommon to get defective parts from them. I always order my parts from AppliancePartsPros and RepairClinic now.

Contact Sears to get a replacement gearcase.

Does it sound like this one:


Here's the gearcase for your model:
Transmission 3360629


Jake
 

Rick8989

Premium Member
Joined
Nov 12, 2019
Messages
8
Location
Chester, VA
Hi Jake,

Thank you for your reply. I was ready to shoot a video for you but the next time I ran it - it worked like it should.

I contacted the seller and a replacement is on the way.

I do have another question for you. The new gearcase has a label that says "remove paint . . . " I did, expecting to see a vent hole. There is no hole under the paint. Should there be? Is there still a vent hole on the newer ones somewhere?

Thank you again.
Rick
 

Rick8989

Premium Member
Joined
Nov 12, 2019
Messages
8
Location
Chester, VA
Hi Jake,

My wife was doing another load and I caught it acting up.

New gearcase draining. It is noisier than the last gearcase.

Starts to spin. It has the click, click, click, starts slowly, never gets up to speed, then stops. 60-90 seconds later - it will attempt to spin again.

Wait a minute. Push timer off. Pull on. Works like it should. Spins up quickly. No click, click, click.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
112,971
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
How many new gearcases have you put in it?

I contacted the seller and a replacement is on the way.
Seller? I thought you got it from Sears Parts Direct?

Jake
 

Rick8989

Premium Member
Joined
Nov 12, 2019
Messages
8
Location
Chester, VA
Just one. Last Wednesday. Those videos are of that brand new gearcase.

I did get that one from Sears Parts Direct, and they are sending me one to replace that one. I didn't know if this forum was sponsored by one particular repair house, so I didn't say that out loud.

After hearing my second video: Are you still confident it's the gearcase?

Thank you again,
Rick
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
112,971
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
I'm not 100% confident unless I was with you and the machine at your house, but you can take the cabinet off the machine and jump the lid switch and pinpoint it much better with the cabinet off.

Jake
 

Rick8989

Premium Member
Joined
Nov 12, 2019
Messages
8
Location
Chester, VA
Hi Jake,

I replaced the transmission again and have the same results.

Recap.
My original problem was: Sometimes, the machine would not go into spin at all. The drum would stay stationary. If I opened and closed the lid (or pushed the timer off/on) I got the loud cluck, the transmission engaged, and the machine would spin right up. I knew the neutral drain was bad in the transmission. That's why I replaced it.

So, I replaced the transmission (and the clutch assy and coupler while I had the unit apart). Now, I have a different problem. Now, the machine will always start to spin. Sometimes - it spins right up as it should.

But sometimes, it starts to spin: But it spins noticeably slower, and has a click click click for a few seconds. If the washer is empty, the clicking will stop and the drum will eventually get up to full speed. If I have a regular load inside - the drum stops spinning. I sounds like it goes into a thermal or electrical overload - because the whole machine stops and goes silent. 60-90 seconds later - I hear a click, and the drum starts to spin up again.
When it does this: If I unplug the machine, plug it back in, and pull the timer, I get the loud clunk and it will spin up as normal.
The machine never did this prior to me opening it up to change the transmission.

Please listen to my second video again.

The brake release cam looked fine. The only other thing I "touched" is the wiring connectors on the motor. And, I tilted the machine backwards to get the transmission out. What did I do that is causing this new problem?

I am wondering if it is the motor drive control/switch (that is part of the motor assy). How does that work? Is that where the centrifugal switch is? Can that motor drive switch be acting up and causing this? Could the click click click I'm hearing be coming from there?
 

Rick8989

Premium Member
Joined
Nov 12, 2019
Messages
8
Location
Chester, VA
Ps.

If the machine is empty, when it's acting up: The motor starts slowly, but will eventually get up to speed and continue to run.
If I have any load/weight in the machine: The motor will stop after trying to get up to speed for about 5 seconds. It's like it hits either a spin time-out or a thermal circuit breaker.

When it's acting up: By the way it starts so slowly, it seems like the capacitor isn't kicking in. I know the capacitor helps get the motor up to speed quickly.
However, I replaced the capacitor today.

My wiring diagram shows that the capacitor wire goes through that Motor Drive Switch. So, again, I'm wondering if that has gone bad internally.

Any thoughts . . . ?
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
112,971
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
It could be the motor or motor switch.

Either the centrifugal mechanism in the motor is not working or the motor switch is bad. The start winding in the motor is only meant to have power applied for the 1-2 seconds it takes to start the motor and then it is switched out of circuit by the centrifugal mechanism activating the motor switch. If it doesn't disconnect the start winding, it will burn up the capacitor and can damage the winding. You can test the switch and see if it's bad.

If the washer works ok on slow speed, then the centrifugal mechanism in the motor is working. Unplug the washer, then Check continuity between the two outermost terminals of the switch. With the switch in place, it should read as a dead short. Pulling the switch away from the motor releases the switch lever arm and now the reading should be an open circuit.



Here's the motor switch for your model:
WP8529896 Motor Start Switch


Here's the motor for your model:
WP8541504 Motor-Drive


Jake
 

Rick8989

Premium Member
Joined
Nov 12, 2019
Messages
8
Location
Chester, VA
Hi Jake,

Thank you again!

Today's update:

Sorry for all the details. The really important question is in the middle of this.

Motor switch pins 1 & 10 = 0 ohms.
When I pulled the cover off I can see the contact pads separated.

Lid switch reads 0 ohms, open, 0 ohms, open - with opening and closing of the lid.

Opened the motor switch: Burnished all the internal contact pads. Burnished all the external wire terminal blades.
This photo was before I did that.
IMG-7600.jpg



What is the small switch right behind the motor switch? The disconnected white wire goes to it.
IMG-7597.jpg


After I cleaned all that; the first time I ran it, when it went into Spin, It acted up, started slowly, click click click, and stopped. Apparently I used too small a Lid Switch jumper wire and it melted!


I replaced that Lid Switch jumper with a thicker gauge wire, have run the washer 5 times, and it has run beautifully ever since.

The lid switch measures 0 ohms when closed.
I was surprised how much current goes through it (because of how the thinner jumper melted).

Is there any way the lid switch is my problem? Maybe it measures 0 ohms with no current on it - but has a higher resistance when the normal operating current goes through it. That is my basic question.

Other notes and questions:
My wiring diagram shows the Speed Switch goes through the Centrifugal Switch. Does the Start Spin mode go through the Speed Switch?
Is it a player in this game?

I can see plastic from my brand new clutch assembly all over the top of my new transmission, and also flying in the air when it goes into spin. Why?
IMG-7613.jpg



The machine has a terrible out of balance, even when there is nothing in it. I removed and rotated the agitator 180* and there is no difference.
I removed the agitator and ran the spin cycle and it is also out of balance - just not as severe.
Is something else worn out? Or is it this transmission? Or, is this okay?

Thank you again for all your help.
Rick
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
112,971
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Ok Rick,

Your motor looks rusty, and it's on its last legs. That white wires goes to the motor overload switch. The motor is likely pulling more amps than it should, thus it causes that wire to melt. Is the motor extremely hot to the touch after its done running? If so, I'd replace the motor if you plan on keeping this washer.

For the white flakes, that's likely your suspension pads wearing out.

Order these pads below, each has a set of 3. When you click the part link to each, you will see videos of how to replace them.:)

Snubber Pad 285744


Snubber Pad 285219


Let us know how it goes.

Jake
 

Rick8989

Premium Member
Joined
Nov 12, 2019
Messages
8
Location
Chester, VA
Hi Jake,

I owe you an update.

The Motor Drive Switch was the problem. On the white arm of the switching mechanism: The post at the rear that the switch mounts to broke off. That made the movement of that switch inconsistent.

I also replaced the 3 suspension springs, the counter balance spring, and 3 sliding pads. That stiffened the drum and cured my excessive vibration.

Thank you for your help and guidance! I appreciate your helping me.
Rick
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
112,971
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Excellent Rick, good job. (y)

Thanks for the update!

Jake
 
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