FIXED 110.24832200 Kenmore washer dancing around the room

[Craig Snyder]

Model Number

110.24832200

Brand

Sears Kenmore

Age

More than 10 years

110.24832200 Kenmore washer shakes violently and moves around. I have visually inspected the springs and the snubber pads. Everything is in place and I can't see any wear on the snubber pads. Can the springs just get weak and need replacing? I racked the drum back to inspect the snubbers and I believe I could replace them from underneath without taking everything apart. Seems like someone else would have caught on to this if it were normal, so should I be able to rack the tub this much?

I replaced the clutch and noted that oil has slung out from the transmission. The photos show what I found. There was some rust on the shaft. I've read where that might be the problem. Any advice? We do not want to have to buy one of the new machines. This one worked very well until this started happening.
.

 

[Jake]

Hi Craig,

Looks like possibly the suspension plate got twisted out of place when you removed and replaced the clutch..

Read this thread here and check that first:

FIXED - Kenmore 80 Series Washer (110.16882500) shakes like crazy on spin cycle

Hi All, I have Sears Kenmore 80 Series (110.16882500) that shakes really bad when on spin cycle. I have done the following: 1) Made sure the machine was level 2) Verified the legs in back are free to move 3) Opened it up and saw that the springs are all there and connected (I counted 4...

www.applianceblog.com

Like I mentioned in post #4--->I can see the suspension plate not riding on the pads, looks like its raised up on yours too in your first photo above.

Jake

 

[Craig Snyder]

The suspension plate is riding on the pads. I tilted the tub back to take that photo. Question: Should I be able to tilt it that much? The first photo shows the tub tilted back and the second photo shows that the suspension plate rides on the pads. The tub seems to wobble when it spins. It seems that the violent jerking occurs when it tries to stop spinning or when it switches from agitation to the spin cycle. I replaced the clutch thinking it might be the problem. The clutch pads had worn down into the rivets. I replaced the complete clutch, both drum and pads, but it did not have any affect on the original problem. This machine is 18 years old but hasn't been heavily used as there are just the two of us. The machine we had previously lasted 32 years while raising three kids. I've ordered all new springs and the bottom pads and they should arrive in five days. I'm working on the theory that the springs are fatigued. I can't see any wear nor damage to the pads. After studying the parts diagrams I'm wondering if the brakes are part of the problem. If the problem continues after installing the parts I've ordered my next step will be to disassemble the brakes and check for wear or damage.

 

[Jake]

Question: Should I be able to tilt it that much?

Yes.

It seems that the violent jerking occurs when it tries to stop spinning or when it switches from agitation to the spin cycle.

That is caused by the basket drive/brake assembly.

Here is the basket drive brake assembly for your model(Video Included):
W10820043 Basktdrive


Jake

 

[Craig Snyder]

Is the brake drum available as a spare part without having to buy the whole washer spinner support assembly?

 

[Jake]

Unfortunately not.

I replaced a lot of those basket drive brake assembly's when I worked as a Sears tech and it always fixed that problem.

Jake

 

[Craig Snyder]

I ordered the basket drive and when it arrived I disassembled the machine. I was amazed at how dirty it was in places you can't normally see. I had bought the spanner to remove the large nut and used two C-clamps to pull the tub (got the idea from Youtube). I knocked out the insert and found it heavily encrusted with rust and crap. I was able to clean it using the wire brush on my bench grinder and was amazed that it didn't have any damage. I coated it with a product called Ospho. I pressure washed the inner and outer tubs and the lower frame.

The bore of the inner tub was heavily rusted near the bottom. I sandblasted the rust, coated it with Ospho and used an automotive product called Evercoat Steel-2-Steel which is a filler to fill in the pits, then primed it with Rustoleum Rust Converter. Since that surface doesn't come into contact with anything it wasn't necessary to sand it. I simply spread the filler out fairly smooth with my fingers (due to the tight quarters and curvature I couldn't use an applicator) when I applied it. The area under the outer tub seal was rusted and pitted as well. I sandblasted that area to remove the rust from the pits, used Ospho to prep the surface and applied the Evercoat filler. Once that had dried I sanded it smooth so the new seal would have a good sealing surface.

I found that the transmission had a lot of free play and that the seal area had been enlarged from the shaft movement until the seal no longer touched the shaft. That is where the oil is coming from. I ordered a new transmission and ironically it is due today according to the tracking information. When it arrives I'll give a final report. In the first effort, I also installed new springs and new bottom pads. I don't know that the old springs were hurt but they may have been fatigued by all of the movement.

The pads weren't worn or damaged but they were brittle and broke up easily when I removed them. My wife has been a sport. She has hand washed some items and used a friend's washer to take care of what had to be washed. The dirty clothes hamper is full and overflowing. Hopefully the transmission will come today. The washer has been down for about ten days so far awaiting delivery. In case anyone is wondering, the work I did took all day. Imagine if I were paying shop rates for labor.

 

[Jake]

WOW, that's quite the ordeal Craig.

Yes, you are correct to order the transmission due to your original one leaking oil, I saw that alot when I was a Sears Tech. in the early 2000's.

Thanks for the update, and let us know how it goes after you replace the transmission, we love updates here.

Jake

 

[Craig Snyder]

My wife really does not want one of the newer machines. That is why I'm trying so hard to "recreate" this one. Hopefully, once the new transmission is installed I will be through with this project. We ran our first washing machine for 32 years until a lightening strike took it out. This one has worn out in 16 years. Half of the lifetime of the first one, and the first one was still going strong when it was hit by lightning. They don't make them like they used to.

 

[Jake]

Yes, that is true.

Jake

 

[Craig Snyder]

Transmission was two days later getting here. I installed it this morning and the machine is running fine now mechanically. It is so quiet you hardly know it's doing anything. However, now that the machine is mechanically healthy I learned this morning that the timer had been acting up and my wife had been having to manually advance the timer at times to wash clothes. Had I known that ----. Just ordered the new timer this morning. Maybe. Timers for this machine are hard to fine. One appliance parts store checked and said that Whirlpool is out. I looked for a while this morning and finally found a dealer that claims to have two in stock and at a moderate price. It was the only Ebay vendor offering new ones. Makes me wonder if the plan is to force the old machines out of service by not providing the essential spare parts required to keep them running.

 

[Craig Snyder]

Arrrggh!! My order was cancelled. Timer is out of stock. That leaves me with the potential option of buying a $262 one now or waiting for a new one (I say potential because they might not have one once I enter the order). Supposedly they are going to be available again in two weeks.

 

[Jake]

Glad to hear the new transmission doing good and it's very quiet Craig.

Yes, unfortunately the timer is out of stock currently:

Whirlpool WP8539991 Timer (AP6013028) - AppliancePartsPros.com

Timer WP8539991 / AP6013028 made by Whirlpool

click.linksynergy.com

Jake

 

[Craig Snyder]

I ordered a used timer. It came today and I immediately installed it. The wife has run two loads so far with no issues, one on regular and the other on delicate. It looks promising. I saw videos on people repairing their timer by filing the points on the timer. I will try that with the old one. You never know when it might be needed again and I don't know that new ones will ever be available.

 

[Jake]

Ok Craig, sounds good.

Thanks for the update!

Jake

 

[Craig Snyder]

I took the old timer apart last night and used a points file to clean the points. I used an ohm meter to check them. Some of them showed as much as 50 ohms resistance. A clean one shows 0.2 ohms. I will hang on to this unit for future needs. We've run three loads so far and all is well, so you can mark this one solved, closed, roger doger over and out.

 

[Jake]

Sounds good Craig.

Jake