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FIXED 110.26912691 Kenmore Washer cycles - fills, drains, spins but WON'T agitate

rgnprof

Premium Member
Joined
Sep 4, 2005
Messages
29
Location
Oklahoma
Model Number
110.26912691
Brand
Sears Kenmore
Age
More than 10 years
Kenmore model #110.26912691. Replaced the lid switch and the dogs in the agitator. Machines cycles through an entire cycle - regular, perm press - and will not agitate. Tubs fills and then the water sits until the timer moves through the wash cycle, then drains and spins and then refills - and sits through the rinse cycle, then drains and spins and shuts off. It does everything that it's supposed to - except wash!

I'm kind of stumped here...any thoughts?

Thanks in advance.
ryan
 

Jake

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Hi Ryan,

Another member had this exact same problem, and it was the timer that was bad, and your model uses the exact same timer.

Here's that thread:
Eric tells you how to verify if the timer is the culprit.

Here's the timer for your model you can order here:
Timer WP3951769


Jake
 

rgnprof

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Messages
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Location
Oklahoma
Ok, followed the link above and ran though the tests as described by Eric. When I jumper the Blu/white and Orange wires on the fabric selector speed switch the timer advances through the wash/rinse cycle with NO agitation. But, when I check for 120vac on the fabric selector speed switch orange with washer on, in wash mode and tub full - I'm getting 125 volts and I'm getting the same reading on the blu/white wire on the same speed switch. I'm also getting 120 volts on the pink and purple wires on the pressure switch while the tub is filling - once full I'm getting 120 volts on the tan wire.

I'm thinking this is leading to a bad timer switch, but I'm confused. Should I have 120 volts on the Blu/White and Orange wires on the speed switch with the tub on and full in the wash mode?

Thanks, ryan
 
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Jake

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Look what he says--->After fill, you have 120vac on the pressure switch tan wire and nothing on the speed switch blue/white wire and the timer is advancing. This means either timer contact 16 is faulty or the blue/white wire from timer to speed switch is faulty. If the wire is ok, replace the timer.

So first check that blue/white wire for a break from the timer to the speed switch, if no break order the timer.:)

Jake
 

rgnprof

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Yes, I'm pretty sure I did that, but I'm going to check again tomorrow. I thought I had 120v at the blu/whi speed switch wire AND 120v at the tan pressure switch - after fill and while the timer was still advancing...but I'll check again and report back.
 

Jake

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Yes, I'm 100% sure its your timer if you find no faulty wires.

Jake
 

rgnprof

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Well, I’m checking it now. With tub full and timer cycling thru the wash cycle, I have 120vac at both the pressure switch tan wire and at the Blu/white wire on the fabric selector switch (Also have 120vac on the fabric orange wire and on the speed switch violet wire - red wire is at 0).

Once the timer cycles thru the wash cycle, tub drains and spins and then fills again for the rinse. Voltages during fill on speed switch tan is 0, red and violet both 120 and minimal voltage on both the orange and the blue/white wires on the fabric switch (2 volts).

Do these findings still point to the timer??
 

Jake

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Eric said this: If the timer advances during agitate mode but no noise from motor, it's most likely the speed select switch but could also be the timer.

--->You can jump out the orange and blue/white wires on the back of the speed select switch to rule that out.

Do that first and report back.

Jake
 

rgnprof

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Thanks Jake. See post #3 above - first line. I jumpered the Blue/White and Orange wires (disconnected the wires and connected them together with a paper clip - assuming that what he meant by "jump"...

That made no difference - the timer advanced liked normal.
 

Jake

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Then the timer is bad.:)

Jake
 

rgnprof

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Location
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If the timer advances during agitate mode but no noise from motor, it's most likely the speed select switch but could also be the timer. You can jump out the orange and blue/white wires on the back of the speed select switch to rule that out. If the timer does not advance during agitate mode, it's something with the water level pressure switch.
I guess I wasn't reading this right...

So if you jump out the Blu/White and Orange wires on the speed select and the timer still advances its NOT the speed switch which leaves the timer being bad - right? I guess...

If jumping the wires causes the timer to stop advancing then the problem is with the water level pressure switch...which was not my situation.

Didn't know what needed to happen to "rule that out" - if that makes sense...(didn't know for sure what "that" was...)

Again, thanks for all the help!

ryan
 

Jake

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I believe he meant if jumping Blu/White and Orange wires on the speed select did NOT make the motor run and agitate, then the speed select switch is NOT the problem, the timer would be the problem.:)

Jake
 

Jake

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That's very strange, the new timer should of fixed it.

I will ask Rick If we missed something.

Jake
 

rgnprof

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Called a local parts place and they thought it was the pressure switch - he said the pressure switch sends a signal to the motor once the tub is filled. He ran me thru some continuity tests, which I will try and do tomorrow. He thought the motor was not getting the signal from the pressure switch...

I have 2 other "ideas"... 1) if the machine spins (which mine does), does that eliminate the coupler? Is it possible for the coupler to be bad and the machine still spin just fine?
and 2) Could the motor be bad - does it operate in one direction for the spin cycle and the other direction for the agitate? So is it possible that motor could be operational in one direction, but not the other? Any way to test the motor?
 

rickgburton

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Could the motor be bad - does it operate in one direction for the spin cycle and the other direction for the agitate?
Yes, check the motor windings. You have a three speed motor:
Direct Drive Motors.jpg
 

rgnprof

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So there's no way my symptoms can be explained by a bad pressure switch?

I'll check the resistances tomorrow...

Thank you!
 

Jake

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Thanks Rick!

Usually when the pressure switch is bad it will AGITATE and NOT FILL, but agitate WITHOUT water, or the tub will overflow and not stop the water from coming into the tub and of course never agitate while its overflowing with water.

But your tub is full and not overflowing.

Yes, check the motor resistices per what Rick mentioned above.

If your motor checks fine, check your wire harness where the wires connect into the timer, about a week ago we had a Maytag that would not fill at all, and he found a loose wire in that wire harness block that connects to the timer.

Remember that Rick? Thanks for helping with that one too Rick, we have been seeing alot of loose/broken wire issues as of late here. LOL

Jake
 

rgnprof

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Ok here goes...

Ran through continuity checks on the pressure switch and it seems to check out fine. Tested motor resistances following this page - http://www.repairave.com/washerrepair_wpl_motor.asp and every test checked out OK - all ohms readings were within specs. In comparing this page with the suggestions that Rick posted above all resistances checked out the same EXCEPT for WH-BLK 5-20 ohms...that specifc test is not part of the tests and steps on the linked page. It does say to test between BL-YEL which gives me 5 ohms. When I test between WH-BLK I get an open circuit. I'm thinking the posted pic above and the listed checks might be a bit off because I have no violet wire for instance, or no gray/pink stripe wire...

I noticed a burned spot on the connector to the start switch on the motor - see pic. It's the orange wire from the timer, so I traced the wire back to the timer and it seems fine and has continuity. So, following the same web site as before - http://www.repairave.com/washerrepair_wpl_motorswitch.asp - I tested the start switch and it also passed all tests!

I am still no where...

I did buy a "renewed" timer - I don't know - guess it's possible the new timer is bad.
 

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