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FIXED 110.26912691 Kenmore Washer cycles - fills, drains, spins but WON'T agitate

Jake

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Interesting, Rick it looks like that burnt orange wire terminal may be the issue? not making a good connection at the motor switch? If I was you I'd cut that orange wire out and splice a new terminal end on it and see if that fixes it.

Does the motor switch terminal where the orange wire connects to look burnt too?

Jake
 

rgnprof

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No, I can't see any thing that looks burnt on the motor start switch. I ran a continuity check on the orange wire from the motor switch end to the timer and then on to the fabric/speed switch. Continuity all the way so the wire itself is fine...also tested the motor switch via the procedure outlined in the link above and all tests were good.
 

Jake

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I know that, but a burnt terminal connector will not make good electrical contact.

Jake
 

rgnprof

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Ok, not sure how to go about fixing this though...

That is a multiple wire harness...not sure how to replace the one wire. If anything the actual connector inside the plastic harness looks burnt...is that wire harness available?
 

rgnprof

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I'm heading over shortly to take another look, but my friend is about ready for me to "throw in the towel"...any thoughts on checking this? Where would I check - what specific motor connections - to see if I even have 120vac when the washer is in Agitate?

Is there a way to fix this connector?
 

Jake

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Go buy a new terminal just like that one, most electronics stores have them in stock, then cut the wire and strip back the insulation a little and crimp the new terminal end on the orange wire. And take the old burnt terminal one out and put the new terminal one in the plastic connector.

Watch this video it shows you how to remove it from the plastic block, yours will be the smaller ones in his video, which are the yellow wires he shows you:


Jake
 

rgnprof

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As is often the case for me - no one in town carries these Molex connectors. And I really buggered up the crimped on connector in trying to pull it out of the plastic piece... not sure what to do from here.
 

rgnprof

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Well, it’s FIXED! I scraped the crimp connector and the pin on the motor switch, got them clean and shiny and tried to reshape the metal crimp piece some so it would fit - at least temporarily - in the connector and on to the motor start switch.
Fired it up and it’s working great!

Now I need to figure out a way to better fix it...

can you buy just a new crimp connector? I can’t find anything locally...
 

rgnprof

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First off - thanks for the help! Couldn't have tracked this down without Jake's and Rick's help.

I have been looking for the crimp connectors and I just don't know what to look for. Can someone point me in the right direction? What is the proper name for these connectors.

I did not cut any wires, so I'm still using the plastic connector (I've been calling it a Molex connector, but I'm not sure if that is right). I just need to figure out how to better connect that orange wire.

Thanks.
 

Jake

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Excellent, glad that was the problem. (y)

Ok, what I would do is go to your local hardware store and get the smallest female terminal, then bypass that plastic molex connector and directly attach it to the motor switch. Just break(cut out) the plastic molex where the orange wire terminal is burnt in it.

Jake
 

Lewis R

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I have seen many of these burned wire connectors to this Direct Drive motor over the past 20 years or so. You need to somehow make a solid connection through the terminal block, either slightly bend the male end on the motor to make better contact, which probably will not last but will prove this is the actual point of failure, or, as I normally do, is cut and splice the orange wire directly to the lead coming out of the motor. From the picture seen earlier, third wire from the left, white with black tracer. I don't think there are any internal connections in the motor switch to that terminal so it should work just fine.
You definitely found the problem. And as a point of reference, if possible, always check motor continuity/resistance from timer block end, which will also confirm the wiring harness and block connector to the motor are either good or as in this case bad.
Good luck.

Lewis
 

johnafton

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Wow, this is such a coincidence. Turns out I had the exact same problem on my washer at almost the exact same time. My washer was doing everything except agitate and I've been trying to troubleshoot over the past 10 days including replacing the timer with no luck. Then I see this thread with the picture of the connector to the motor start switch and it turns out mine has the same brown color burn markings where the orange wire enters the connector! When I ensure good contact with the orange wire the agitate starts working again!

This is a great forum for those of us trying to keep our appliances working rather than spending big $$$$ on a regular basis.
Thank you to rgnprof and Jake and Lewis for posting all this info for others to use!!

- John
 

rgnprof

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I am really happy - not only that I got my machine fixed, but that this thread has helped someone else! Makes all those posts earlier even more worth the time.

ryan
 
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