• Please note, some of the links on our site are affiliate links (Learn More)

110.26912691 Kenmore Washer Knocking Sound Between Rinse and Spin

torotoro

Premium Member
Joined
Dec 18, 2019
Messages
17
Location
Northern New Jersey
Model Number
110.26912691
Brand
Sears Kenmore
Age
More than 10 years
Hard to describe the sound (will try to attach video) but after the water drains from the rinse cycle the sounds starts and it struggles to spin. It will spin fine in the spin cycle. This occurs on full loads and clothes are wetter than they should but not soaking wet like before the coupler was replaced. Recently replaced the clutch and motor/transmission coupling. Wondering if I installed the clutch incorrectly. This started a short while after replacing the clutch.

TIA.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
105,240
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
It sounds like either your motor coupling or clutch is not on properly if you just replaced them, take the machine apart again and make sure you installed them properly.

If both are installed properly then its possibly the basket drive has gone out.

Here is the basket drive for your model(Video Included):
W10820043 Basktdrive


It does come with instructions to determine which spring to use.:)

Jake
 

ajshoe

Premium Member
Joined
Oct 21, 2017
Messages
29
Location
Ohio
sounds like your brake clutch tab has broke. normally when you replace the clutch on this washer - you also should replace the plastic tab piece for the brake mechanism
 

torotoro

Premium Member
Joined
Dec 18, 2019
Messages
17
Location
Northern New Jersey
Thanks, but if you’re talking about the brake cam that goes on the drive shaft, that part is new and in good order. I replaced it as part of the clutch kit. I disassembled and checked the clutch as it was the most recent thing I did before this noise started.
 

ajshoe

Premium Member
Joined
Oct 21, 2017
Messages
29
Location
Ohio
I would check the motor coupling closely - they can crack when installing them on the shafts.They shaft is going around but one end of the coupler is slipping. If all good - you have a bad transmission. the plastic gear inside has stripped or the metal helical gear has broke.
 

torotoro

Premium Member
Joined
Dec 18, 2019
Messages
17
Location
Northern New Jersey
Coupling was checked also. It was replaced 2 months ago. I ordered the drive block as it’s cheap enough. Will report back after. Bear in mind everything functions properly so far aside from the noise during the spray rinse cycle. Thanks.
 

ajshoe

Premium Member
Joined
Oct 21, 2017
Messages
29
Location
Ohio
forgot to mention to make sure the pump is free and nothing in it. try running the washer with pump off
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
105,240
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Here's the tub drive block for this model:
Drive Block WP389140


There is a video in the tub drive block part link that shows you how to access it.

You can see the comparison here:

See the one on the left, its the old one, the one on the right is the new one. It has to have those 2 ear slots. Does yours look like the one on the left or right?



Let us know.

Jake
 

torotoro

Premium Member
Joined
Dec 18, 2019
Messages
17
Location
Northern New Jersey
Can’t budge the basket. Want to know if these tabs on the shaft need t9 be depressed in order to get the basket out. I already broke one of them tapping with a dowel and hammer.

7F02CF20-D91E-45DE-9D75-7241926EC914.jpeg
33F64F9F-8CE5-4529-AF88-FB66BBE0D846.jpeg
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
105,240
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
No, that's the plastic filter attached to the underside of the inner basket, that's not keeping the basket from coming out.

Some are in really tight and this guy may a video of what he did to pry his basket up:


Jake
 

torotoro

Premium Member
Joined
Dec 18, 2019
Messages
17
Location
Northern New Jersey
Tried something similar to what he did as well as knocking, heat gun and much rocking. It just won’t budge. Now that I’m looking at the block carefully, I don’t think I need to bother. Input appreciated.
1384E95C-3B1E-490C-9890-BC0DDD487B2F.jpeg
 

torotoro

Premium Member
Joined
Dec 18, 2019
Messages
17
Location
Northern New Jersey
Changed the drive block but don’t think that is the problem. The notches that engage the tabs on the drive tube were fine although the bottom was pretty corroded.
64FAA41D-763D-4EB0-8FD4-E284B36A6E2E.jpeg
13EA6495-D4CC-4EA6-8E78-EE93C80B5AF9.jpeg
 

torotoro

Premium Member
Joined
Dec 18, 2019
Messages
17
Location
Northern New Jersey
I found that the main obstacle for me in removing the inner tub was that the suspension springs don’t allow for a good purchase to rock the tub. Not sure if it was a combination or any one thing I did. I used heat, banging with a hammer, a variation on what was shown in the video above, Kroil penetrating oil, PB Blaster, CLP Break Free and finally used a band type oil filter wrench around the tub column to rock it back and forth. Might have been the CLP which was applied last or just the combination of time and the wrench. When I put the wrench on it I didn’t have to use much force. The tub was coming up before I even realized it was finally loose.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
105,240
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Yes, it needed to be replaced anyways, it was badly corroded.

Good job getting the inner basket out. (y)

So do you have the washer running right now? If so, how does it sound?

Jake
 

torotoro

Premium Member
Joined
Dec 18, 2019
Messages
17
Location
Northern New Jersey
After running 2 full loads the sound is much shorter and the tub doesn’t spin during the spray rinse cycle. Wifey says the clothes are wetter than normal.

The worst part is that now I have a leak. I haven’t determined where it’s coming from because taking the cabinet off is an involved process because of the location. I have bought a seal for the outer tub but I think I’m going to cut my losses on this after the is one last ditch.

The tabs on the drive shaft are intact and the brake pads look fine and the drum is nice and shiny.
 

Attachments

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
105,240
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Ok, then yes, its best to overhaul the machine at this point or buy a new washer.

When I worked for Sears, I would replace all those parts together at once, transmission, basket drive, drive block, clutch, motor coupling. All those parts add up to a new machine, the only reason I replaced all those parts ALL AT ONCE is so I would not have to keep going back to the customers house every couple months to replace one at a time, when a machine gets over 10 years old, all those parts are normally wearing, and its best to replace them all at once.

Jake
 
Top