110.26932691 Slow speed (only) agitation and spin clunking noise

RWH

Premium Member
Joined
Mar 28, 2019
Messages
5
Location
Ohio
Model
110.26932691
Brand
Sears Kenmore
Age
More than 10 years
My very old (20+?) but oh so reliable Kenmore 90 washing machine has developed a loud clicking noise on slow speed wash/agitation and spin cycles. The agitator still rotates/turns/moves/oscillates during the slow speed wash cycle. The washer appears to operate fine on fast speed agitation and spin as well as extra slow speed agitation cycles. Any ideas what the problem might be? Thanks. I would really like to keep this working as long as possible since the wife really likes it and the thought of moving to a HE machine does not excite her.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
99,146
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
It could be the motor, motor switch, or capacitor.

Either the centrifugal mechanism in the motor is not working or the motor switch is bad. The start winding in the motor is only meant to have power applied for the 1-2 seconds it takes to start the motor and then it is switched out of circuit by the centrifugal mechanism activating the motor switch. If it doesn't disconnect the start winding, it will burn up the capacitor and can damage the winding. You can test the switch and see if it's bad.

If the washer works ok on slow speed(WHICH IT IS NOT WORKING ON SLOW SPEED, CORRECT?), then the centrifugal mechanism in the motor is working. Unplug the washer, then Check continuity between the two outermost terminals of the switch. With the switch in place, it should read as a dead short. Pulling the switch away from the motor releases the switch lever arm and now the reading should be an open circuit.



Here's the motor switch for your model:
Manufacturer's Number: WP8529896


Here's the motor for your model:
Motor WP3352287


Here's the motor capacitor for your model:
WP8572720 Capacitor


Here's the video to test the capacitor: Capacitor Testing

Let us know what you find.

Jake
 

RWH

Premium Member
Joined
Mar 28, 2019
Messages
5
Location
Ohio
Thank you Jake. To clarify on your question, the washer is not working properly on slow speed. The agitator turns on wash cycle but has a loud clicking noise and the tub spins on the slow speed setting but also has the loud clicking sound. I only say that because I have read so many queries both on your site and others where the problem seems to be the agitator of tub are not working at all (either turning or spinning). I will start by checking the switch and report back. Thanks again.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
99,146
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Ok, lets narrow it down, remove the motor and lay it on the floor with the electrical still hooked-up to it, and let it run by-itself and see if that's where the loud clicking sound is coming from in the agitate cycle first.:)

Take the cabinet off the machine so you can access those parts easier.

To remove the cabinet watch this video here: Whirlpool/Kenmore Top-Load Direct Drive Washer Disassembly Video

Jake
 

RWH

Premium Member
Joined
Mar 28, 2019
Messages
5
Location
Ohio
Sorry Jake for late response. Thanks so much for the help. I have some family issues which will likely delay me addressing this for the next several weeks. When I have an opportunity to take the machine apart and troubleshoot per your recommendations, I will reply back with my findings. At least we can use the machine on Fast and extra slow until I can get to it. Not optimal but functional. Thanks again. More later...
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
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Messages
99,146
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Ok RWH, no worries, come back anytime.:)

Jake
 

RWH

Premium Member
Joined
Mar 28, 2019
Messages
5
Location
Ohio
Hi Jake. RWH again. I tested the switch and the ohmmeter readings check out. Short when switch installed, open when I pull switch. However, it sure looks to me like the white arm that contacts the motor shaft and pushes in the contacts inside the switch is terribly worn and blackened (as if rubbed for 20 years or more...) where it contacts the motor shaft. It also seems to be more worn on the "bottom side" (if you were looking at the switch laying down on a table with the removable cover side facing up (or alternatively, more worn on the side of the switch closer to the center of the machine if installed...if that makes sense) of that contact surface. I have tried to compare it to pictures of that portion of the arm on new switches but haven't found a very good picture of a new switch to completely confirm my suspicions. Does that make any sense? Have you seen that before? I can't test the capacitor right now because I only have digital multimeters. I should be getting an analog one tomorrow so will have more info on the cap when I get that. Thanks.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
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Messages
99,146
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Ok, got it!

So your motor switch ohm tested good, but its very worn.

So the problem is either the capacitor or centrifugal mechanism in the motor.

If your capacitor tests good, then you will need to order and replace the motor, as you can't order just a centrifugal mechanism separately.

Jake
 

RWH

Premium Member
Joined
Mar 28, 2019
Messages
5
Location
Ohio
Thanks Jake. I will test the cap when I get the analog multimeter and report back. Again, thank you for your help.
 

Jake

Appliance Tech - Admin
Staff member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
99,146
Location
McMullen Valley, Arizona
Ok RWH, sounds good.:)

Jake
 
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